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Thread: Mt. Goat Euro Mount - DIY tips ??

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    Member kodiakrain's Avatar
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    Default Mt. Goat Euro Mount - DIY tips ??

    Have a nice Mt. Goat skull and Horns that I plan to do a DIY Euro mount on, my hunting partner mentioned something about Goat Horns that needs to be done to eliminate some layer of material beneath the Horns ???
    He said something about boiling the Horns to the point of slipping the outer covering off, then somehow cleaning that material off then reglueing the Horns on to the Horn Core??

    As I have heard enough about NOT Boiling skulls I am leary of proceeding.

    I have my own Dermestid Beetle Colony so am now drying the skull before giving to the Beetles to clean the meat out of the skull.

    Can anyone advise me on this inner Horn thing my buddy mentioned?

    Here's Pics for fun, he took quite a fall so broken cheek bone is gonna add to the story of the hunt I guess.





    Ten Hours in that little raft off the AK peninsula, blowin' NW 60, in November.... "the Power of Life and Death is in the Tongue," and Yes, God is Good !

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    Mist the whole skull, horns with water, put in a ziplock bag and place a wet towel or damp paper towel in their.. then bag it again.. put in a warm place for 1-2 weeks.. Open bag down wind and twist on the horns.. They will pop right off.. If not, use a small screwdriver and detach the grissle right at the horn base holding them on.. (DO NOT BOIL).. once off, rinse the inside of the horns and wash with simple green or a dawn or other mild detergent. Let dry.. Pour BORAX... in the horns and let sit until your skull is cleaned, degreased and whitened. I drill a small pilot hole from the back just through the horn and into the core a 1/4" with the smallest bit you can find on the back side just above the base.. No one will see it, but it ensures when setting them back on they are not set to deep..twisted right/left, etc.. Fill in the tiny hole with a epoxie compound and paint...

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    Member kodiakrain's Avatar
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    Man, Hoytguy, You are the Best,

    I was hoping you'd see this, exactly the info and detail I needed, Thanks
    Ten Hours in that little raft off the AK peninsula, blowin' NW 60, in November.... "the Power of Life and Death is in the Tongue," and Yes, God is Good !

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    Sponsor Hoytguy's Avatar
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    LMAO.. trade you a few more secrets for some Sitka Blacktail.. LOL.. If ya get in a bind.. feel free to give me a call. Goats are on a Pedestal above all animals to me.. Hate to see one get messed up..

    315-4432

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    Member CtP's Avatar
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    Hoytguy,
    Any tips for cleaning out the skull I don't have a beetle colony? Why shouldn't we boil the skull? I'm assuming your drilling the small pilot hole before you remove the horns. Correct??
    I have a billy I'm doing a euro mount on, it's my first and I'd rather not muck it up. Any tips your willing to share about the process would be great. Thanks
    CtP

    thanks for the thread kodiaktrain

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    Member CtP's Avatar
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    Hoytguy,

    I got allot of good info from your other posts on cleaning and degreasing skulls. One question. Will the goat horns fall off after being submerged in warm water with detergent or should I rely on the bag method you mentioned?

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    Member kodiakrain's Avatar
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    CtP, I'm in the mid stage on my Mt Goat now, beetles working, but wanted to mention, the bag method of loosening the horns worked really well for me.
    It took only a week in the bag, in a room temp environment, reached in and the Horns just twisted off pretty easily. Well, one of them I had to work the base of the horn with a small knife/screwdriver just a bit to get some hanging on hide loose, then it also "twist and pulled" right off.
    Was easy to clean the inside of them, I just used some softscrub (couldn't find Borax anywhere) and a toothbrush, they don't smell at all. Also yes, the small hole in backside, is mainly for finding original location of Horn for remounting, add small screw later, is done before removing Horns.

    Hoytguy will probably chime in soon but from his advice, the boiling will breakdown the bone sctructure, causing flaking later.

    For another Euro I am doing, an Elk, I couldn't use beetles as I didn't have a big enough container for the entire rack so worried about loosing Beetles (they climb like crazy) I am just using the maceration method,
    using an aquarium heater to keep super soapy water (just Dawn or Joy but at least a cup in the few gallons of water it takes to submerge the entire skull) at 80-100F maybe. It takes a while, bit smelly as you are basically simmering the flesh off.

    But it is working pretty nicely, would be the thing to do if you don't have beetles and better than resorting to boiling. You will need to have somewhere to have a somewhat smelly operation, going for several weeks.
    Stuck mine in a basement bathroom with a ventilating fan to exhaust the smell. Not a problem.

    DieNqvrs, also is one who has some good advice on all this, real helpful guy
    Ten Hours in that little raft off the AK peninsula, blowin' NW 60, in November.... "the Power of Life and Death is in the Tongue," and Yes, God is Good !

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    Sponsor Hoytguy's Avatar
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    CTP,

    I wouldnt submerge the horns on the water for any length of time.. Just dunk em, put em in a zip lock baggie and set aside in a warm place.. Make sure its sealed.. give it 10-14 days.. they should twist right off.. As for the pilot hole.. I use the smalledt drillbit I have.. Tiny, and I drill just through the horn (backside) and into the core about half way.. The hole should be about the size of a pin.. Once the skull is cleaned, and the horns are cleaned.. Cut off about half of the core that goes up inot the horn istelf.. Mix some bondo.. or a 2 part epoxy, and glue on.. use a pin, insert in your hole on the horn and core.. it will be like a key.. once the bondo kicks or your glue.. remove pin.. Done.. the horns will be in the exact position they were when you popped em off.. no guess work, no too far, to wide, etc..As for the other questions..

    The boiling will cause flaking once cured..also the fine nasal bones in the nasal cavity will be brittle and break and fall out leaving a huge hollow nasal cavity.. you want all that detail, Mascerate or (basically rot it off), air gun, and degrease.. if wont whiten unti it is totally degreased.. Shortcuts will cause nothing but problems in the future..

    Their are several ways to skin the cat.. this is just the way I do it.

    Thanks,

    Hoytguy

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    Member dieNqvrs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kodiakrain View Post
    am just using the maceration method, using an aquarium heater to keep super soapy water (just Dawn or Joy but at least a cup in the few gallons of water it takes to submerge the entire skull) at 80-100F maybe. It takes a while, bit smelly as you are basically simmering the flesh off.
    Soap is a disinfectant killing bacteria which is what you want eating the flesh off the skull. So no soap with maceration. pour a beer or some bread yeast in to get a leg up start.

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    Member fullkurl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieNqvrs View Post
    Soap is a disinfectant killing bacteria which is what you want eating the flesh off the skull. So no soap with maceration. pour a beer or some bread yeast in to get a leg up start.
    Can I get fries with that?
    Proud to be an American!

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    Member kodiakrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieNqvrs View Post
    Soap is a disinfectant killing bacteria which is what you want eating the flesh off the skull. So no soap with maceration. pour a beer or some bread yeast in to get a leg up start.
    AaaKKKkkkk, I've been doing it wrong !?!?, Unreal, no wonder it's been taking soooo long.....

    So, how did I get that twisted around, soak in Soapy Hot water to get grease out of my Bear skull, but
    Just hot water for the maceration of flesh off skull at first,

    Ok now that I think of it, I was getting two projects mixed up. I did have the Elk skull in plain water at first, but been doing soapy water lately.

    Cool idea on the Beer or yeast to start it up. Thanks Chris, for the correction to my taxi-rookie posting.
    Ten Hours in that little raft off the AK peninsula, blowin' NW 60, in November.... "the Power of Life and Death is in the Tongue," and Yes, God is Good !

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    Great info fellas. I'm just getting started. Will post back with results.
    Thanks!

  13. #13
    Member kodiakrain's Avatar
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    Default Finally getting these pics up, learned some stuff, too

    Just an update to this thread, in case someone was interested in the final product and details,
    I put this thread together for DIY'ers,
    lots of details, lots of pics and info, mistakes made, lessons learned, ideas welcome
    Check it out,
    http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/...ing-for-a-Home

    then here for completing this thread, is the final process,
    from Hoytguy's advice, the Horns were easily removed, "Easier than I thought" just about one week, in a bag having been misted moisture, "Softening of Horn bases"



    This photo above is actually after the Beetles had removed all the flesh,
    Here they are in action



    and the Skull soaking in soapy water after Flesh has been removed,
    "To remove oil from inside the bone" At first, a day or two, there would be scum rising to the surface of warm water, (used cheap aquarium heater to keep at around 80F)

    the insulated cooler for soaking was a big help in keeping it warm enough I think, fit perfectly anyway
    then I kept it in there for several weeks to try to get All the Oils out



    Then after Hydrogen peroxide soaking for several days to whiten the bone after "Degreasing in soapy water"
    and sealing with Epoxy, hoping to keep it from drying out ot cracking, I used "Stuff I had on the boat," that works forever to seal out air, etc.
    Reattached the Horns with Epoxy also, after having to cut off the ends of the bones underneath there, and grind on them some to make fit again,
    As mentioned on the other thread, it seemed the Horns had shrunk some and would not slide right back on.
    but it came out pretty good, I think

    Ten Hours in that little raft off the AK peninsula, blowin' NW 60, in November.... "the Power of Life and Death is in the Tongue," and Yes, God is Good !

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    Member kodiakrain's Avatar
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    Default Few more finals

    Here's a few more angles on the end product,





    and hanging over my reloading bench, out in the shop.
    Actually, my wife is liking the end product enough we may have it finished on a backing of Cherry Wood or something and inside the house (!?!?)

    She's not "Big on Animal products in the house," unless in the Frig, Crockpot, or Stove.
    She was raised in "Traditional Kodiak," ("can't eat the horns" types)

    but currently, we have the Black Bear skull and now the Mt. Goat skull as bookends for DVD's on top of the video screen cabinet. Amazing, she's kinda likin' the nonfur mounts....
    They came out clean, no smell whatsoever,
    and are not dust collectors, (part of the reason I epoxied them, worked good)



    So, CtP, do you have any results of your project, or anyone else?
    I also, would be interested in how folks build a plaque to mount a Euro on??

    This pic above, it is just sitting on a 16p nail on the strength of the spinal cord hole, strong enough
    Ten Hours in that little raft off the AK peninsula, blowin' NW 60, in November.... "the Power of Life and Death is in the Tongue," and Yes, God is Good !

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    Member dieNqvrs's Avatar
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    For a plaque, take a small can (like a tomato paste can) and punch a hole in the middle of it( for a pencil tip). Get a desired peice of nice wood. Place skull on wood and put pencil through the small hole in can and trace the out line of the skull. Basically it is just an inch bigger than the skull shape all the way around. cut out and route the edge and finish. Find proper location for a screw/bolt to enter the foramen magnum(spinal hole) and drill through the plaque.Take a medium sized molly bolt or toggle bolt and and take wings off and put the screw through the plaque. screw back on the wings and put in to skull and tighten screw in back until desired look and feel. Attach hanger to back of plaque or desired other peices of wood depending on the look you want.

    In two of your pictures, the one hanging above the work bench(back of the skull) and the close up of the non busted eye socket(near the ear) i can see the yellow glow to the bone where grease still remains and will eventually leach out. live and learn.

    No big hunt plans yet except an early road system buck if I find the right one(I dont kill the small ones any more until maybe muzzleloader/bow season for the freezer ). Wont make any defininte plans until mid april some time.

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    Member CtP's Avatar
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    Nice work Kodiakrain. Bighorse and I hit the hills the other day for a last round at the blacktail. With some climbing and photography we finally ran into a nice fat doe. So now that the season is officially over it's time to hit the euro mounts. I just finished peeling the skull and now it's time to moisten and wrap up to get the horns off.
    I appreciate the write up. I was wondering what route I should go to whiten and seal. I guess I got a littlle research to do. What did you apply to the horns to make them all shiny??
    I'd better get back to work. I post some updates as they come.

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    Default Progress

    I got the skulled cleaned off and ready for the bag. It wasn't too bad while still a bit cold.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Default here we go...

    With the skull in 3 layers of trash bags, taped up in a box with baking soda odor killers and place up on a mezzanine in the hanger a week went by. I went up today and twisted the horns right off inside the bag. Dropped the skull into the cooler ( good ideal Kodiakrain) and in goes the heater. Time for the maceration.

    Funny story, had the horns in the gravel next to the cooler while I was inside filling a 5 gal bucket with hot water. I come outside and the dog (lab/malamute/wild) is right by the cooler and runs off. The horns are gone. ***!!! I chase down the dog, coerce him to come to me and the search begins. I find one horn not too far where he dropped it on the run. Okay, now where's #2, and it's starting to get dark. So I leash up Coho and the search begins. I take him back to horn #1 for a sniff and start cheering him on, " where's there horn Coho, let's go, gotta find the horn" and believe it or not he starts walking toward the back of the neighbors lot. I let him lead and just follow, over the 8x8 garden wall, through the yard, between the cedar garden boxes and down the row we walk and he leads me right too it. Nice!!!! Good dog, kind of felt bad for reaming his butt, I for sure thought my Euro Billy project was a bust. I just visioned the skull hanging there w/out horns. I guess it would have given me a funny/sad story to tell. Horns are safe and sound,ready for a cleaning. Here's the skull just before immersion. Kind of crazy looking w/out the horns...
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    LOL.........**** dogs!

    Good work there CtP, it's looking really good.

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    At this point the skull is clean of all flesh and matter. Still a bit yellow but clean.
    So my next question for the experts, Hoytguy feel free to chime it
    What to do next?
    How do I degrease the skull?
    Whiten it? and seal it?
    I've heard of using Elmers, whats the deal with that. This is my first diy Euro so this whole process is a big learning exp. for me.
    Thanks,
    Ctp
    Pics to follow

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