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Thread: best traps

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    Default best traps

    ok so i am going to be setting out a trap line for the first time this year and was just wondering what brand of traps to buy. victors, dukes, bridgers, montanas, mb, i have heard that people dont much care for dukes but why is that, arent they a duplicate of a victor trap? just trying to figure it out so i dont buy junk.

  2. #2

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    well, first off..what are you targeting? i use a variety of traps but mainly brigder #3 because its one of those traps that will hold a variety such as fox, lynx, coyote, and beaver

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    if your looking at conibears it's hard to beat the Belisles 120's for mink & marten next brandwould be the BMI's brand, stout springs both top of the line well built traps the 330's are top shelf great traps if your targeting beaver,otter,wolverine & lynx, as for foot traps the minimum or smallest trap i believe you should set on the ground would be a #3,the trap should have laminated offset jaws,4-coiled,baseplated & at least 3 swivel points on the chain, a well tuned trap such as this will cause the least amount of foot damage on a fox yet still be strong enough to hold larger,stronger animals up to a wolf, the MB 650's, Bridgers, both of these traps have an aprox jawspread of 6.5" pending the laminations on the jaws. for wolves the Bridger Brawn, Alaskan#9, MB-750's,Bridger #5 both coil & double longspring, these traps have between 7.5"-9" jawspreads. i would stay away from the duke,montanas & victors just for the simple reason they require to much modification to make them even close to compareable to the Bridgers,Belisles,MB's & the Alaskan, the outlay of $$ is considerably more for these traps but well worth the cost. some may disagree with me but ive ben trapping for 20+yrs & ive wasted good $$ on cheap traps & paid the price for skimping, the trap is what does the work so why cheat yourself or waste your time with sub par equipement.

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    predatorhuntr01 hit the nail on the head and remember you get what you pay for so dont buy dukes.

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    lol that does it dukes are junk buy bridgers i have 14 victor #2's and a dozen and a half snares and about a dozen victor#1. there arent really many wolves where im to be trapping atleast i have never seen one or called one in, but i have heard of them being seen during moose season but only like one soo im gonna try the 2's for fox or lynx and hope i dont get a coyote or a wolf. for lynx ill set some double sets and hope for a double foot catch. mostly marten trapping though ill just be happy if a catch one thing all year to tell you the truth i dont have the highest of hopes but i am just tickled to give it a shot this year and do some learning so next year i can be much better

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    I'm new to trapping so my resources are limited. I already have a couple Dukes. I was wondering what it is that makes them inferior to the other brands? Also I have done enough research that I am very confident in the snares I have built and looking at them in stores don't see much difference in design. My question is really how well do the CAM locks work vs the regular style. And if CAM locks are better do you use the smooth kind or the style with the grooves on the ca.

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    im also new to trapping but what i get from some other guys i know that trap is that the springs wear out on the dukes after a year and that they are not made of very thick material with rough edges. most of the people i talk to are running victors or bridgers.

    if you go to trapperman.com there is a guy on there that uses 1.75 dukes for coyotes!

  8. #8

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    the inferiorities of the Duke traps are: weaker springs after just 1 season, jaws need to be laminated because the plain jaws are very thin & do not have a large enough face that contacts the foot thus resulting in excessive foot damage, frame is weak & unless they are baseplated the frame will twist resulting in jaws popping out of the frame, just snag an average size coyote in a basic out of the box DUKE trap & you'll be lucky if he's still there & if he is it's a good possibility that trap will need to be brought in for repair, the dogs on a trap bend rather easily & should be replaced before even putting the trap into service, a properly modified trap should have laminated jaws,baseplated,center swiveled,beefier dog added,4coiled,pan tension set per animal targeted & mid chain swivel added, the canadian modified Bridger & the MB (MINNESOTA BRAND) are quite possibly the only traps that can be used straight out of the box, after a good dye & wax job & pan tension adjusting. The 1.75 coil will hold a coyote but it must be modified to hold them CONSISTANTLY & it only has aprox. 5 3/8" jawspread Mark June swears by them & is one of the top coyote trappers in the country but majority of the big#s coyote men use a #3-#4 size trap w/6.5" jawspread modified to the max the larger traps have oboviously a larger kill/target area so doesnt it make sence to tip the odds in your favor? i mean there's a whole lotta country out there & your trying to get that coyote to put his foot directly on your trap, a larger kill zone may mean the difference between a caught coyote or a complete miss & if i miss him my competition may pick him up before i get another chance when he makes his rounds through again. the snares i prefer are the AMBERG locks with kill springs, mine are 6-8' length of 5/64 1x19 cable i like the 1x19 cable as it's a bit stiffer & holds a better loop also added a deerstop, i believe John Grahm of Fur COUNTRY lURES in Jordan,Montana purchased the Amberg cam lock patent they can be purchased through him in bulk or through THE SNARE SHOP in Carroll, Ia.

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    just to let you new guys know i just got some mb650's for yote and set the pan light to pick up any fox that check them out, anyway i havent caught anything in them yet because the season is not yet open but i think they may be the best out of the box trap i have ever bought everything on them is pretty bullet proof and the 4 coiled music springs make it incredibly fast that with olil jaws i dont think anything short of a wolf or wolvarine will ever pull out of these things jaw spread is a little small for lynx but im sure if one gets in the it will hold no problem most or the tman guys say the 750 is a great lynx trap. jesseaak #2 should be fine for fox but if you have yote in your are i would recomend getting some #3's

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    Predatorhuntr01: Thanks, that was a great reply. I really appreciate people that give honest informative answers without being condescending. Its people like you that make this sport one I am so eager to join!

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    big thanx from me also from all who have answered. there is so much info on traps it actually gets confusing after awhile. its good to know that the trapping community is close enough to give a hand when it comes to trap sizes and all of that. like akpyron i am very eager to join

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    I have a bunch of duke 120's and a few duke 330's. While the trigger is a bit stiff on the 120's it is nothing a little filing cant fix. I have never had a problem with them and have gotten plenty of critters. I dont have any duke footholds so cant comment on those. but as far as coni's go they have been fine.

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    So last night I went to check some of my duke 120's... I have a bad wrist and have been using the rope trick to squeeze the springs and POP one of them slipped off! So I guess there is something to what everyone is saying! It will go back on but now I need to borrow a mig or tig from someone to weld those loops at the end of the springs on so I don't have to deal with this again. I know tongs will pretty much prevent this but the rope weighs a hell of a lot less when trekking around the woods and you totally compress the spring with one hand.

  14. #14

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    One fact that most people lose in the "Duke" debate is a trapper with 2 # 3 dukes $21.20 will catch more cats than the same guy with one 6.50 MB ($21.95)hands down. Say you get 5 cats per trap with the MB and 4 per Duke due to failure and pull-outs. Due the math! To start buy as many traps as possible for as cheap as possible. The excess money from the larger catch can replace, repair those less expensive traps and purchase the more expensive traps as you grow your line. As your skills increase, your catch will also but it's easier to refine your skills with lot's of gear in the field. I also put the cheap stuff in areas where the risk of theft is and the higher quality gear far from thieves. I have had one pull-out in all my years and it was a poor choice in locations. I also have never had a trap break but many stolen and lost. My first traps are 25 years old and still in good shape. I learned to trap with them and alter them and was always in need of more of them not better quality. That being said, A quality trap is easier to use and does give you more confidence. Just wait till your line is well covered and your skills are there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by akscotty View Post
    just to let you new guys know i just got some mb650's for yote and set the pan light to pick up any fox that check them out, anyway i havent caught anything in them yet because the season is not yet open but i think they may be the best out of the box trap i have ever bought everything on them is pretty bullet proof and the 4 coiled music springs make it incredibly fast that with olil jaws i dont think anything short of a wolf or wolvarine will ever pull out of these things jaw spread is a little small for lynx but im sure if one gets in the it will hold no problem most or the tman guys say the 750 is a great lynx trap. jesseaak #2 should be fine for fox but if you have yote in your are i would recomend getting some #3's
    I don't think any wolverine is getting out of a 650 and if a wolf gets his foot in, it is solid. That is one good trap! The 750's seem good but are not as versatile to me.

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