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Thread: Why would an 11-87 run slow?

  1. #1
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    Default Why would an 11-87 run slow?

    Temps were high teens to low 20's, w/ wind, but dry. No snow or rain. The bolt seemed to move slow, not crisp. Several times on follow up shots I had to drive the bolt forward by hand. I had no issues with the gun in September at all. It fired and cycled perfectly.
    What reasons have you found for an 11-87 to act this way, especially in the cold.
    I'll add that I do not remember cleaning the shotgun after my September hunt. It was for sure clean prior to that, and I ran about a box of shells through it (3 cranes, 2 mallards, and some misses).
    If I add lube, I use Tri-Flow and have for years. I use it sparingly.
    The gun had very little to no silt or sand in it when I tore it down for a thorough cleaning.
    I have owned the gun since new (21+/- years) and have not replaced any parts.
    Ideas?
    Thanks folks,
    ARR

  2. #2
    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    Sounds like the action spring to me
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    First off, if I seem prude or insulting I don't mean to. I would make sure everything is dry for cold weather enivorments. No lube when expected to be in temps hovering in the 30's or below most lubricants gum up in these conditions causing actions to function imporperly. If you do use lube use one forumlated for cold weather enviroment and as you stated sparingly. Also make sure your gas ports are not clogged. I use a pipe cleaner for this. Action spring could be the culprit but ?able. (question 2 applies to weak action spring) if you leave shells in mag tube it would keep that spring compressed all the time making it weak. Same applies to the bolt being held open to the rear compressing that spring. Heres a few questions I would like answered to better asses the issue.
    1. When gun is stowed do you leave the action open?
    2. Do you store the gun in safe action condition (ie chamber empty firing mechanism dropped)?
    3. What type of ammo? 2 3/4, 3". Light loads don't cylcle 100% in mine 100% of the time dependin on the brand.

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    Default No worries, I'm thick skinned

    ...And only have one feeling left to hurt. You can bet it is a tough one.
    1- action open? For the most part of its life, no. Lately more and more, yes. I am more into the habit of leaving bolts and actions open now. If I close a bolt, I hold the trigger so it is not cocked. On any action that I can't leave open, I dry fire the gun.
    2- safe action? I'm not sure how to read the question, but I never leave any firearm that I own cocked.
    3- Ammo? 2 3/4" and 3" steel, 1 1/8oz to 1 3/8oz. Same ammo type and wt that I have used for years. On this trip, she ran slow regardless of load.
    This is the same gun I use in winter to hunt predators. Again, if I do lube it, I do so only w/ TriFlo and sparingly, and then down to maybe 10 degrees. Colder than that she is pretty dry.
    I've never used a pipe cleaner on the gas ports, I can look though.
    I do not leave the gun loaded. If keeping the tube loaded caused a weak spring, and I'll disagree with you on that, I don't see how that would cause the bolt to run slow and cause the bolt to not drive home every time.
    I tried pulling the Ops manual off the remington site but my computer could not. Amigo, is the action spring the one in the mag tube, or the one in the stock?

  5. #5
    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    Its in the stock and controlls bolt recoil and forward speed. I believe it or the guide that works it your problem.
    Now left only to be a turd in the forrest and the circle will be complete.Use me as I have used you

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    Member Frostbitten's Avatar
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    I've had the same thing happen...and it seemed it was a moisture problem both times. The gun was warm, taken out in the cold were either snow or condensation froze inside and caused the exact problem you described.

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    I would clean the gas system really good as this is the cheapest fix. If that doesn't work I am with Amigo on this after the Q&A. A weak mag spring would cause feed issues where as a weak action sping would cause a sluggish/slow cycling action. Leaving the action open for extended periods keeps the action spring compressed and even spring steel can get memory. Forstbitten also has a good line of thinkin too.
    Last edited by sniper3083006; 10-25-2010 at 19:33. Reason: hit reply before finishing post

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    Default Action spring

    Springs are cheap.

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    I'm betting by a slow 'return' to even the 'by hand' closing up the action to a firing position is the action spring or parts being gummed up, dirty, wet, corroded, or combo of all this.

    Essentially - there are a few culprit parts to consider cleaning, inspecting and assessing conditions:

    A.) action bar assembly
    B.) action bar sleeve
    C.) action spring follower
    D.) plug
    E.) plug pin
    F.) action spring tube
    G.) action spring nut
    H.) action spring washer
    I.) action spring nut lock washer

    This stuff (at least 7 of these parts) is inside the stock. to my familiarity at least on models 11-48 (one of my favorites), 1100, and 11-87

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    Not familiar with an 11-87 but on an 1100 in cold weather the outside of the mag tube is what gums up. I thought they were stainless on the 11-87. In cold weather we'd take off the forearm and wipe it down between rounds of skeet to keep it cyclling crisply. Might be worth a try, easy to give a shot anyhow.

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    Default

    Try Cleaning it and running it dry.

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    My 11-87 has like 3 boxes of shells through it. It does the same thing cold. I'm thinking mostly condensation when it got really cold. in the warm truck/house, out in the cold. It cycles fine loading it right out of the truck. But 30 mins later it cycles rough. I was thinking some teflon lube might help in the bolt area.

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    Default Hey DarkP

    Did you clean your 11-87 really well when you first got it? Mine always used to cycle well regardless of temps, at least temps I was interested in hunting in which was to about -10. The problem I had is a recent one. But I do recall that I really scrubbed it well a long time ago, and I am not adverse to spraying degreaser on it and blowing it off with air when/if needed.
    I plan to degrease it and take it out in the next cold spell. I'll keep trying different things in an effort to better understand the gun. It would not bother me to replace the spring and o-ring at this point as the cost per shot is cheap, but I'll play with it a bit first.

  14. #14
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    Mine had the same issues. Sticky lube appeared to be the culprit, plus check the gas system holes with a pipe cleaner or similar.

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    It's my understanding, that some of these new Auto Shootguns, won't work reliably with Low Power loads. I read that somewheres, and my B-I-L had an issue like that, too.

    He took it to Gander Mountain where he bought his gun, and the gunsmith there, reamed out, (resized) the gas ports, or added another one, ??? Something like that.

    You might oughta check with the manufacturer.

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    I didn't do a super uber cleaning on mine. I'm sure it has to do with lube not being great for the cold. Anyone try the teflon gun lube by remington?

  17. #17
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    Have 2 - 1187's of my own and saw hundreds of them at my sporting clays course over a 10 yr span. Many if not all of the trouble spots have already been mentioned - I cleaned the port holes and around it thoroughly after every 200 rounds or so. There can be grit build up that will almost look like the steel and needs to be scraped out - likely with a small flat screwdriver.
    I always cleaned thorough then re lubed with a thin spray on gun lube - I liked mine ( wet )... Another possible is the ammo / or chamber - if the slightest amount of film rust gets into barrel where shell sits it can cause shell to not feed in well so make sure that's very clean. I had a high dollar gun that I had to use xtra fine steel wool on before I cleaned and stored it with 2 lube soaked mops in the barrels or it would rust in just a cpl days.
    My guess is clean first - if that don't fix replace the springs like Amigo suggested... Some of the dirtiest ammo I ran thru mine was steel loads for some reason - may also have a pellet lodged in action someplace?
    Good Luck!
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