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Thread: Rebore or Rebarrel?

  1. #1

    Default Rebore or Rebarrel?

    I am working on building up a 35 Whelen and have a few questions. I have purchased a Remington 700 in 30-06 for the base but need to decide whether to rebore or rebarrel?

    The 30-06 has a factory sporter barrel, only thing is I am not sure of is if the sporter barrel will have enough metal left. So for those of you who have or have thought about a rebore, will a sporter 30-06 barrel have enough?

    Also, I have only found one place for a rebore that I feel comfortable about and that is JES in Oregon. Do any of you have any gunsmiths that you recommend.

    Thanks a head of time for the help.

  2. #2
    Member Nukalpiaq's Avatar
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    I had a MRC 1999 '06 with a SS fluted barrel rebored to .35 Whelen a year or so ago, the shop that did the work was called Delta Gun Shop/Clearwater Reboring, their shop is based in Colville, Washington. Don't recall what the barrel was thickness requirements were, if you get a hold of them I am sure they could answer any questions you have regarding a rebore project.

    http://www.deltagunshop.com/clearwat...ng/index.html#

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    Member pinehavensredrocket's Avatar
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    your "smith" will adivse you on the barrel contour needed, but #2 or #3 should be fine for a whelen sporter. i have used shilen, lilja, douglas, and a few others but..... if you decide to rebarrel consider er shaw, they are a great barrel and "cheap" too!

    happy trails.
    jh

  4. #4

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    I can't comment on your entire question but I can vouch for JES in Oregon. Jesse re-bored my 30/30 Win to 35-30/30 and did an outstanding job. I think it was about 10 days total turn around from the time I sent it out to back in my hands. Incredible. I am super pleased with his work and you can't beat the price from what i've seen. $225 including return shipping!

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    Moderator hunt_ak's Avatar
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    What are the cost comparisons between the two? Wouldn't it be cheaper to just re-barrel and have your '06 barrel to either sell or swap back to if you didn't like the .35?

  6. #6

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    For the rebore it is going to run $225 and the rebarrel would end up running minimum $345 for a barrel from Hart without the smith work, also trying to resale the barrel the average asking price I am seeing is about $75 so I wouldn't cover the difference. J E S Reboring is going to do the rebore and the smith work. So ultimately it is more cost effective to do the rebore. Until I looked at the prices on barrel blanks and figured in the smith work I wasn't sure, but I am having the rifle sent to Jesse today to get it on its way.

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    Member 1Cor15:19's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by l@@kin_4_holes View Post
    For the rebore it is going to run $225 and the rebarrel would end up running minimum $345 for a barrel from Hart without the smith work, also trying to resale the barrel the average asking price I am seeing is about $75 so I wouldn't cover the difference. J E S Reboring is going to do the rebore and the smith work. So ultimately it is more cost effective to do the rebore. Until I looked at the prices on barrel blanks and figured in the smith work I wasn't sure, but I am having the rifle sent to Jesse today to get it on its way.
    I think you'll be satisfied with the rebore, but I wouldn't use Hart as a price comparison. That's a little like comparing the rebuild price on a Chevette 4-banger to a Corvette crate engine. You'll save some money in the 4-banger, but its not the same 'Vette.

    FWIW, an ER Shaw barrel is $155-65 that is chambered/contoured (ready for install). A Douglas chambered/contoured barrel is $275. These are higher quality barrels than a rebore at a modest increase in cost. IMO either provide a much better value for your $. IME the only reason to rebore is that the original barrel contour is difficult/expensive to duplicate (i.e octagonal, steps, etc.) or the original barrel markings are desirable/collectable. YMMV.
    Foolishness is a moral category, not an intellectual one.

  8. #8

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    Out of the two that you have mentioned I would prefer to go with the Douglas and then still have to deal with the smithing fee. One of these days I may upgrade, it will be a few years though.

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    Man you have alot to learn! Numerous choices for barrels fromlothar walther to Adams and Bennett heck you cod of got a mcgowen with discount for 150 dollars. What you going to do when that rebore don't shoot? Now you are out 225 looking to buy another barrel. I could of got you the gunsmith rate on shilen barrel less than 200. In the end I would of did the rebarrel you WILL never recoupe any money when it comes to semi or even full custom builds. Again alot to learn young one.

  10. #10

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    I don't disagree that I have a lot to learn, but at least I am finding things out as I go. And if the Rebore doesn't shoot will rebarrel it, but for the time being I figured its worth a try.

    So before he starts cutting the barrel; do you think I should go with a cut down to 22", 3 groove with a 1-12" twist or the 1-14".
    From what I have found the factory 1-16 doesn't stabilize anything over 225gr to well and a 1-14 will stabalize a little bigger than 250gr. I figure go a 1-12 to be able to stabilize anything gr I want. Give me some feedback, so this young one can learn. I mean what are you old farts for .

  11. #11
    Member 1Cor15:19's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by l@@kin_4_holes View Post
    So before he starts cutting the barrel; do you think I should go with a cut down to 22", 3 groove with a 1-12" twist or the 1-14".
    From what I have found the factory 1-16 doesn't stabilize anything over 225gr to well and a 1-14 will stabalize a little bigger than 250gr. I figure go a 1-12 to be able to stabilize anything gr I want. Give me some feedback, so this young one can learn. I mean what are you old farts for .
    I've had ZERO issues with the factory 1:16 with 250 grain Speers and Hornady SP bullets. Remember that it is bullet length, not weight, that causes a need for a faster twist. That is to say that a relatively short for weight 275 grain RN will almost certainly be okay in the 1:16. I've not needed or used the heaviest .358 bullets in the Whelen, but if you planned to in your rifle I'd skip the 1:14 and consider a 1:12. For my part, a 1:16 is just fine and the accuracy out of my Whelen is exceptional with all manner of 225 & 250 grain bullets. FWIW, there is nothing in AK that a 250 Speer (@ 2550 fps mv) will not hammer and this past season I carried my Whelen with 225 Nosler ABs for moose and brown bear with great confidence. Bullet construction matched with terminal velocity are the ingredients to success when choosing any cartridge/bullet combo. You do not need to use the heaviest bullets to have the utmost in terminal performance IME.

    A 22" barrel is fine for the Whelen, though I am partial to a 24" tube on my rifles. You'll give up a little velocity (who cares?), for a little increased ease in handling (never noticed my rifles as cumbersome)--pick your poison.
    Foolishness is a moral category, not an intellectual one.

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    Not me go with the 1-14 twist... Stay away from the 1-16 twist, again the 1-14 us ideal twist for the 35's.

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    That Clearwater outfit is Cliff LaBountys old shop and he did and they still do world class work. It'll shoot as good as your origional tube did.

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