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Thread: Liquid Detergent as release agent

  1. #1

    Question Liquid Detergent as release agent

    I seem to remember reading somewhere that one could use liquid laundry detergent as a release agent when working with epoxy resins? Use it the same way as regular release agent- a few thin coats. Can anyone confirm this?

    Thank you

  2. #2
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    Just use plain old shoe polish or furniture wax.
    Great spirits have always found violent opposition from mediocre minds. The latter cannot understand it when a man does not thoughtlessly submit to hereditary prejudices but honestly and courageously uses his intelligence. Albert Einstein

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    Member oldmil007's Avatar
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    Paste type car wax, the stuff with carnuba, will work well. Apply mutiple coats, polishing in between coats with a terrycloth towel.

    If you're going to do A LOT of parts, get some Partall http://www.rexco-usa.com/part.htm

    - Jay

  4. #4

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    I found some mold release agent at a boat supply shop on the docks here in Kodiak.
    Haven't the brass to try it out on a gun yet though.

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    Member Darreld Walton's Avatar
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    I've been using Johnson paste floor wax for years as a release agent. One can has lasted approximately ten years. Two coats and rub it down gently after it 'sets', and it gives a really, really nice negative of the metal pieces in the epoxy. I also stick the screws into it, then rub them down, and dip a short-bristle paint brush or toothbrush to get into the little nooks and crannies.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darreld Walton View Post
    I've been using Johnson paste floor wax for years as a release agent. One can has lasted approximately ten years. Two coats and rub it down gently after it 'sets', and it gives a really, really nice negative of the metal pieces in the epoxy. I also stick the screws into it, then rub them down, and dip a short-bristle paint brush or toothbrush to get into the little nooks and crannies.
    Much better answer to what I had said. I have also heated the metalwork with a heatgun to where it is hot to the touch, then gently applied carnauba furniture wax. Very good. A fellow chemist I have corresponded with also used nitrocellulose he made as the ultimate "skin" for his metal. Only two coats, it must have been very thin indeed, and challenging to get out of the epoxy. Nothing needs to be that exotic...I guess.
    Great spirits have always found violent opposition from mediocre minds. The latter cannot understand it when a man does not thoughtlessly submit to hereditary prejudices but honestly and courageously uses his intelligence. Albert Einstein

    Better living through chemistry (I'm a chemist)

    You can piddle with the puppies, or run with the wolves...

  7. #7
    hap
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldmil007 View Post
    Paste type car wax, the stuff with carnuba, will work well. Apply mutiple coats, polishing in between coats with a terrycloth towel.

    If you're going to do A LOT of parts, get some Partall http://www.rexco-usa.com/part.htm

    - Jay

    I strongly suggest not using car waxes. Most have silicone in the blend and a tiny bit in the finish will make all sorts of bad things happen if you ever need to add a little finish to a wood stock or add a little more epoxy if your bedding job has some holidays...

    Plain old Johnson's Paste Wax is hard to beat.
    art

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