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Thread: Preventing rusting on blued rifle

  1. #1

    Default Preventing rusting on blued rifle

    Just got back from a 4 day hunt in Yanert Valley (totally skunked, only saw 1 cow the whole trip, no bulls and no bears! Didn't see anyone with meat and only heard 1 set of shots the whole trip. Lame.) It rained every day and frosted over at night 2 of the 4 days. Despite wiping my blued Rem 700 nightly with Rem oil wipes I still developed rust in the nooks and crannies of the rifle and in a couple spots where the rifle rubbed against the metal on my pack.

    Any suggestions about how to keep rust off of a blued rifle in a wet climate? Anything I could coat it with? Next rifle I'm buying will definitely be stainless, but I do love my 30-06 700, shoots great and is nice and light.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Member rimfirematt's Avatar
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    Mine is a remington ADL. despite my constant babying of it, it is starting to fade and getting splotchy. Im going to get it parkerized. If I didnt have so many good memories with the ol' battle axe Id go stainless. on second thought I kind of like the way its starting to look....

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    I just wipe mine off and lightly oil it.
    The blue is doing just what the blueings gonna do, rub, fade, "ripen" as I call it with use. I just pay that baby beter atttention in any place I notice any rust.
    Thats the way it gos, with use, and like a car, the first scratch is the worst scratch.

    Even stainless rusts, it just looks pretty again, after wiping.

    With use, Parkerizing wears off.

    So Paint it.
    Its a durable and a do-it-yerself protection, just pick a color.

    Some militarys paint over blue or Parkerizing.....Britts, Russians, Chinese.....does the US Paint their M-4's?

    I spray used Red Rustoleum & painted my Romainian M-69 .22 LR, as it is in the boat and on the snowgo, year round. The paint has been redone 4 times, the blue underneath is perfect~~LOL!!~~

    Read the "Rust remover" "Gunsmith school" advertizments below ~~LOL!!!~~
    If you can't Kill it with a 30-06, you should Hide.

    "Dam it all", The Beaver told me.....

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    Member mekaniks's Avatar
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    Default WD

    I use WD-40 in a spray. WD-40 stands for Water Disspersant and was the 40th "recipe" that the manufacture had developed. I hunt in the saltwater alot. I Spray it down after every use and wipe with a clean rag. Sometimes have to do it a couple of times a day. Like at lunch after the morning flight and again in the evening. Blue is hard to take care of around the water but it can be done. Just alot more work. I have a buddy that swears by ATF (auto trans fluid) and uses it the same way but I dont like the smell and leaves a red mess if you accidentaly spill any. Seems to work well at keeping the rustys away though.

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    Member chico99645's Avatar
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    I've got a buddy that swears by this stuff. http://eezox.com/ I don't use it as I use SS rifles for the most part.

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    Product called dura-coat. Works like a charm. Fairly easy to do and you can always add coats as needed

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    Member Stanly's Avatar
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    www.blackicecoatings.com. I have several of my guns (rifles/ARs/shotguns/handguns) done by Lee. Very reasonable price, great service and great product. You will not be disappointed. I live in Palmer if you would like to see his work.
    When the HOGS show up, somethins gonna DIE!!!
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    RIG. it's a heavy duty grease. use a very small amount. I actually use a lighter grease for most things, barrels, etc. and just use RIG every other time or so on my bolts (and knife hinges).

    wd-40 will take your blueing off, don't know why anyone would do that. works in a pinch to clean the bore but NOT on the outside.


    anyhow, what you're talking about is nothing more than cosmetic. "Ripening" as Stranger says (rep well deserved), or character, one might say.

    It's a boom stick. Take care of it like a truck, but don't be afraid to use it. Needs oil and grease, just like a truck. Linseed oil for the stock (wooden) and grease on the steel.


    Gun oil is nearly worthless.

  9. #9

    Default

    Many kinds of rust inhibitors out there. oils wax, etc. The most durable blued finish I know of is the old "rust blue" that was on the pre-64's and some other older guns. Stainless will rust and not all "stainless" guns are really all stainless as some have nickle plated parts so check it out before you buy. If you like your current gun just be aware of it's needs and care for it on a regular basis. When it gets to the point you need it refinished then look at "cerakote".

  10. #10
    Member mekaniks's Avatar
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    Default still like WD

    Have a Winchester mod 120 blued shotgun that has hunted in saltwater from Seward , Kodiak, Cold Bay, and out the Aleutians to Umnak for 20 years and has had LOTS of WD used on it when it gets wet. It still has all of bluing on it and very little rust, so I disgree that WD will take the blueing off. Be happy to PM anyone a pic of it if you like.

    But to each his own and there are lots of good products out there, just need to make sure that whatever is used gets down in the hard to reach places like round the stock, action, sights ect... where a gun oil rag dosent always reach until you take the gun completely apart.

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    You guys ever hear of paste wax? The kind you wax your vehicles with? Try it, you will be impressed.
    Tennessee

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    Member mekaniks's Avatar
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    Default FYI

    their is a good thread on the shooting forum on the same basic topic right now FYI

  13. #13
    Member Stanly's Avatar
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    Like mekaniks said about getting around all the nooks and crannies. Lee does the entire gun. Don't know why you would want to deal with oily rags, waxes etc and always worrying about it rusting. Get it tefloned and you're done, period. The only thing you need to clean is the bore. Nothing sticks to teflon, I have both my RRA AR and my Beowulf done and you know how dirty the bolt can get on an AR. Well, you just wipe it off with a rag, truly amazing. Clean as a whistle. When you're out in the field for two weeks and it's raining every day and you're spraying smelly things all over your rifle that might potentially spook an animal away, you don't always have time to properly care for your gun. My buddy fell into a river up north hunting 2 years ago, it rained every day they were there. When he got to camp and told his buds what happend, besides getting ribbed pretty good and after changing clothes, he ran a swab down the bore and that was it. They all told him he was crazy that his gun would be toast, he just laughed and showed it to them. No issues there. I'm tellin ya, check it out...
    When the HOGS show up, somethins gonna DIE!!!
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    Member sayak's Avatar
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    Not all bluing is created equal. Some seems to be delicate, and other bluing seems pretty tough. I personally have never seen any evidence of WD40 removing bluing. I wipe my rifle down with Remoil after every outing, and if it is raining I spray it liberally with the WD. All of my rifles, pistols and shot guns are blued. None of them look pristine and I like it that way. I touch them up with spot bluing every once in a while as needed.

  15. #15

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    I throw my vote out on Black Ice. Lee does great work and well worth the cost. The way it smooths out your action is sweet also.

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    Member BrentC's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stanly View Post
    www.blackicecoatings.com. I have several of my guns (rifles/ARs/shotguns/handguns) done by Lee. Very reasonable price, great service and great product. You will not be disappointed. I live in Palmer if you would like to see his work.
    Lee has done a few of my guns too. I just got my 375 coated and it looks absolutely fabulous. Now if my McMillan stock would ever show up, I could finally finish this thing.

  17. #17

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    I have a friend that swears by Johnsons floor wax. I switched to all stainless hardware so I haven't felt the need to try it, but based on his guns, if i had a blued one, i would certainly give it a go.

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    i'm happy to stand corrected on the wd-40. I was sternly warned about it removing blueing, but I should have posted something to the effect of "i've heard wd-40 removes blueing, is this true?"

    so, in a nutshell, i repent and admit to making a bad post that I did not personally verify.

    I still don't think the gun-specific oils sold are very good at all, especially considering the price.



    sounds like a lot of you folks like to spend a lot of money on gun cosmetics. This Lee guy sounds like he has you guys dialed in.



    I'm with stranger on this one. Use what's cheap, what you've got, what works. Teflon coatings for a rifle? Do you wear silk underwear too?

  19. #19
    Member rimfirematt's Avatar
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    you guys that have had this black ice done, notice any changes in accuracy? Im just concerned that all that heat will warp the barrel or something

  20. #20
    Member Stanly's Avatar
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    Nope. My 22-250 was a tack driver before the teflon, it's a tack driver after the teflon. Nothing gets heated enough to warp anything. You should call Lee and talk to him. He can explain it all to you. Hey andweav, so let me get this right, I spend a very reasonable amount of money to get my gun rustproofed permanently and you're talking about WD40, car wax, spray paint, floor wax and to what effectiveness this stuff actually works and how frequently it has to be redone. Yhea that "Lee" character, he's just a schmuck who happens to do engineering work for NASA. I guess those NASA boys, gullable as they are. Did you know most of the parts on the space shuttle are tefloned. How about Christensen Arms, bunch of dopes they are, he does the teflon on their custom rifles. He also just picked up a high end custom 1911 maker. So I send my gun down to him and I'm done. You got your little rags, paint cans, q-tips, buffers etc, and spend who knows how much time taking down and putting back together your guns. Yup, I'm the idiot for sure. But hey, to each his own...
    When the HOGS show up, somethins gonna DIE!!!
    Blood Sport
    32' Custom Wooldridge
    MMSI #: 338181573

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