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Thread: How to Make a rowing frame or oar locks for my 14' Achilles

  1. #1
    Member RocketRick's Avatar
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    Question How to Make a rowing frame or oar locks for my 14' Achilles

    I've had the Achilles ins late 80's and its a great boat. Taken it everywhere.

    I want to add a rowing frame or at least make a rowing station where I can use the long oars like on the Kenai.

    Are there any drawings or advice on doing this yourself.

    It's hypalon of course.

    I can glue fitting etc on it, no prob.

    Maybe glue on 4 deals to make some oar locks for start.Attachment 38713

    Rick

  2. #2
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    You could buy a couple oar saddles. They would need a few D ring patches glued on to the boat to hold them tight with straps. They aren't cheap, but they work well and are light/small.

    You could also buy a simple four piece aluminum oar frame from any of several raft dealers in Anchorage, Fairbanks, Soldotna, etc. Or you could by four frame fittings, and two oar stands from the same places, add four sticks of 1.25" schedule 40 anodized aluminum from a metal & pipe supply, and make your own. There are some fittings that use larger pipes as well. These frames are fairly light, ery strong and break down when needed.

    You could also weld a frame using pipe or heavy gauge EMT. They can get complex if you want them strong, and they can be made to break down into several sections.

    The simplest method is using 4 sticks of 2x6" pressure treated lumber, lap jointed together with counter sunk bolts. Add a couple steel oar stands and oarlocks and you would be in business. I have a couple of these oar stands I'd sell if you're interested. Right now they're bolted onto a small plywood frame that I used to hold two inflatable kayaks together. It comes with a seat and might even fit your boat. --- $50 if you want it. I also have an extra set of pins and clips if you would rather use them instead of oarlocks and oar sleeves/stoppers/uprights.

    Basic plan is to put two pipes/boards along the center of each side tube and two cross members tying the two side pipes/boards together at both ends. A good simple plan has the two end pieces far enough apart to mount a seat on one and use the other as a foot brace when needed. You can put a U bend in the foot pipe to lower it and make it a better foot rest, but it really isn't necessary.

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    Worth your while to look at several good options available as well as some nice custom touches that will not be commonplace on store shelves.

    With a Sportboat you can think outside the box.

    I'll relate, if going the frame oar station --- you are better off to complete the square and thru-bolt cross bars. Under power, frames can/will pull apart... counter to most folks thinking - stresses and vibrations on sportboats under power are not so much bow to stern as they are across the beam.

    On a row down river also keep in mind that with 9"+ heavy-duty oars --- you'll have the torque of 10 paddlers... should never skimp on a minimal oar station. ALSO CONSIDER BUDGETING FOR A 3RD OAR FOR RIVER USE!

  4. #4
    Member RocketRick's Avatar
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    Thanks Jim and Brian. Much appreciated. I've been planning to do this for years.

    I was thinking of just gluing some oar-locks onto the pontoons but thinking it might not be strong enough to move the boat and/or last a long time. Maybe a frame wld give more leverage, last longer and be safer.

    I can weld steel but not aluminum.

    Well Jim lets get together soon and I'll look at your stuff and maybe we can come up with a plan to get 'er done. I cld do something easy for now and make a more skookum frame later.

    I'm in S. ANC abt 7-mins from Carrs Huffman.

    PM me Jim or send email to sukijaky@gmail.com.

    Glad I fnd this site

    Rick

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