Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: repairing water damaged camper

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Eagle River, AK
    Posts
    127

    Default repairing water damaged camper

    I am repairing an 89 jayco slide in camper that has some water damage to it. The back has water damage from the floor halfway up the walls so im replacing the water damaged parts. my question is what is the lightest material I can use to repair it. Its 2 inches thick. I've never done this before so its a big deal to me. Trying to get it done before hunting season starts. so I have sometime but if I can i'm gonna try to get it done ASAP. Any help would be greatly appreciated. THX Chris

  2. #2
    Member Frostbitten's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Alaska - I wasn't born here, but I got here as soon as I could!
    Posts
    3,279

    Default

    Hey Chris, been there, done that! I used 1/8 inch birch plywood, stained to match the interior of the camper, and coated the back side with roofing asphalt to water proof it. Check the condition of the existing studs, replace with 2X2 if needed. As with any water damage project, mine got much bigger once I tore into it and determined the real extent of the damage. I would recommend peeling back the flooring a bit to see if there was any damage there. What started as a project to replace a small section of a wall ended up replacing the entire front wall and 3 1/2 feet of the floor. The good thing is, all you need are basic carpentry skills and a little time. Oh, and a way to keep it dry while it's tore apart.

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Eagle River, AK
    Posts
    127

    Default

    I'm in that process now. When taking the paneling off the sides to see in there I found more damage on the walls. Which only goes back about a foot. Should be easy to replace. The flooring is damaged about 3 feet. The back wall is damaged about half way up. Since in into it this far I might as well replace the studs with new 2x2's and on the corners where the jacks are Im thinking of using 2x4's and a one foot 4x4 to bolt the jacks on. we'll see when that time comes. What material did you use to replace the wall with??

  4. #4
    Member Frostbitten's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Alaska - I wasn't born here, but I got here as soon as I could!
    Posts
    3,279

    Default

    The existing interior wall was essentially glorified cardboard with a vinyl wallpaper over it. I went with the cabinet grade 1/8 inch plywood. Most of this wall is behind/under the table, so I wasn't all that concerned with matching the wallpaper. I just stained the plywood a light oak color to match the other trim and accents in the camper.

    When you do the floor, after cutting away the damaged area, make sure the new sheathing is firmly connected to the existing sheathing, otherwise you will get an anoying "creak" every time you step on that area. Ask me how I know that!

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Eagle River, AK
    Posts
    127

    Default

    I thought about how to do this the fastest way which would be getting an 1/8 inch plywood and some foam and putting that together. and then start working down so I have something to fasten the floor too when im done with the walls. It appears that after looking at it earlier today that most of the water damage is under the aluminum and not the whole wall. as soon as I take the back aluminum piece off I can see better at what is damaged and what can be salvaged. we'll see this weekend when the weather is better. Seems pretty easy just have to figure out how to secure everything together.

  6. #6
    Member Frostbitten's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Alaska - I wasn't born here, but I got here as soon as I could!
    Posts
    3,279

    Default

    Roger that. Once I had all the damaged materials removed, I did the floor first so that I had something to secure the wall to. Mine was a trailer, not a slide in. The floor had joists/stringers sitting on top of the trailer frame. Had to replace a couple, but no gig deal. Once that was done, I replaced the sheathing, then I just worked my way up. Good point on the foam, and now that I think about it, I did the same, just glued some 1" foam to the wall for insulation. Once you get it all buttoned up, don't forget to seal the hell out of it.

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Eagle River, AK
    Posts
    127

    Default

    sealing it is job 1 as its being put together. and then sealed somemore after its all together. Now just gotta wait for the weather to cooperate so I could tear it apart. 2x2's and 1" foam and im good to go I hope. Thanks for the help.

  8. #8
    Member Frostbitten's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Alaska - I wasn't born here, but I got here as soon as I could!
    Posts
    3,279

    Default

    No worries. As far as waiting for the weather, we've been doing that all summer, and hunting season is closing in fast!!!

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Eagle River, AK
    Posts
    127

    Default

    yeah no kidding. crappy summer again. Hunting season already here. pretty soon the white stuff will be flying. Man this year's gone by fast.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •