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Thread: What bilge pump to get?

  1. #1
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    Default What bilge pump to get?

    What bilge pump should I get for my 1648 MV ob jet boat? It has a jet tunnel so it will have to be mounted on the port side right up against the transom as I have ≈ 3.5" of room there. What pump rate would you go with? I've heard that a small boat such as mine should get the highest flow pump that will work as smaller boats swamp faster. Make sense to you?

    How would you mount it w/o drilling through the boat? Just stick it down with marine sealant or mount it to marine grade plywood and stick that down? Any other ideas?

    Also, what kind of switch would you suggest?

    Thanks.

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    I prefer pumps with mechanical float switches. I can't count how many West Marine brand pumps I've bought through the years, but I know better now. These days I use a Rule pump with built-in float switch in 750gph. The housing is oblong and attaches to my battery box with self-stick Velcro. I go to NAPA and get heater hose instead of that plastic hose the marine stores use. Then I route the hose over the transom and zip tie to the motor mount to hold it in position. Works great. I've never heard anything good about the pumps with electronic switches. Maybe somebody will comment.

  3. #3
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    I use 5200 marine sealant to adhere it to the aluminum

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    Quote Originally Posted by fullbush View Post
    I use 5200 marine sealant to adhere it to the aluminum
    I was thinking the same thing only I don't have bare aluminum, it is some sort of gray textured paint on the interior of the boat. Should I remove the paint prior to adhering it or just stick it to the paint? If I should remove the paint can you suggest a method that is neat/clean so I don't remove more paint than is necessary?

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    800 to 1000 and a rule pump. i like a switch unless i was going to leave the boat tied up and be away for awhile. my boat like yours has it going overboard and i put an added length of hose so that it shoots where i can see it. plus i put an electric transom trolling motor in the way.
    you could probably just scuff the paint with some sandpaper and adhere it to the boat. or epoxy a block of wood where you want it and attach to that.

  6. #6
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    You are correct as to smaller boats filling faster (less area to flood)
    Best rule for bilge pumps is get the biggest you can afford.
    I run 2 1100s (one on auto switch and one with a helm switch)
    Plus I have 2 750's (fishwell and live well) that I can pop a hose off and use them in a drastic emergency.
    All mine exit out the same side as the helm so I can look back to see how they are pumping if need be.
    2000 Bayliner Ciera Express 2452
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    Default I picked up/installed an...

    Attwood Tsunami 800 gpm cartridge pump mounted directly to the bottom of the boat/paint with 3M 5200 sealant. It seems like the bond is plenty strong. The switch is mounted to battery box with a rubber switch cover and the fuse holder is inside battery box. I tested it vs. the garden hose and it more than keeps up with the hose at full rate.

    Now my question is... Does it hurt the pump if I run it dry for a few seconds? As in to test it before going out or to make sure the hose is empty after use so I don't get a hose full of water back in the boat?

  8. #8
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    a) My Rule pump runs for about 10 seconds after the switch returns to the off position, so I doubt you'll hurt anything. These pumps have clearance built-in between impeller and chamber so there's nothing to get hurt by dry running....except

    b) Apparently this week after much rain my mechanical pump switch armature got fouled with dirt or weeds and kept the pump running. When I arrived at the boat the battery was too weak to start the motor. I had to jump the motor and later clean the pump. I hope you mount allows a simple way to release the pump to clean it!

  9. #9

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    You might find this helpful...http://www.powerboat-reports.com/sample/bilge.html...or just google bilge pump reviews. Also, smooth bore hose is more efficient than the more common ribbed hose ...it will cost more, too. If you use 3m 5200 to mount your pump, be sure it is exactly where you want it because that is exactly where it will stay. I used PL400...water/weather proof... to bed in the stringers on my project prior to glassing and will probably use it to mount the bases for two Rule 27d 1100 gph pumps. This model pump should fit in the space you described. Good luck to you!

  10. #10
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    pumps.jpgHeavy Duty Johnson pumps are the only ones i will use.

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    I've used the pump setup (with smooth bore hose) dipnetting and on Tustamena. No complaints so far, works great. Only problem I had was after the first dipnetting trip I realized I didn't leave myself an easy way to disconnect the pump from the battery so I could remove the battery box for cleaning out the boat. Found that out the hard way when I went to pull the battery box and realized it wouldn't work so... I set the box back in (none too gingerly) and snapped off the swith toggle in the on position. I had to grab a wrench and disconnect the pump from the battery pretty quickly... Off to Gary's Auto/Marine electric I went for a new switch and some quick disconnects. Works great now. Thanks for all of the advise.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by wyobohunter View Post
    How would you mount it w/o drilling through the boat? Just stick it down with marine sealant or mount it to marine grade plywood and stick that down? Any other ideas?

    Also, what kind of switch would you suggest?

    Thanks.
    The bilge (bottom) pump and float switch is mounted to an aluminum plate that screws to structure that is off the bottom, this way I can remove two screws and lift the pump and switch as a unit out of the boat for servicing.
    I removed the manufacture installed accordion hose that snaked all over and installed white smooth wall hose routing it with no sharp bends. It greatly improved the flow.
    The pump cartridge is interchangeable with the live well pump mounted above it and the wiring is now routed so it can be switched over easily.

    Forward and about 4 in off the bottom I mounted a pump like Potbuilder suggest using (Johnson 4000). The picture shows only the hose where it comes out of the bilge area and where it exits the port side of the boat. I used white smooth wall hose and no sharp bends. This pump will only run if the other isn't keeping up.
    I did this because of threads I read on this sight about plastic thru hull fittings breaking, I can now pump fast enough to keep up if that should happen.
    The other good tip was adding the wax ring (like used on a toilet install) to the possible’s box for plugging the hole.

  13. #13
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    Update. I've never been a fan of the "electronic" pumps that start every 2 minutes whether they need to or not. I have been a user of Rule pumps with built-in float switches, although my float switch has become sticky and killed a battery. The new Rule pumps use a new type of electronic sensor to control the pump. No moving parts. No screen in front of the impeller to get fouled. They have self test buttons built in. They even come with a straight fitting and 90* fitting for the discharge hook-up. Nice pumps. Very nice. I bought a couple at West Marine. They work great.

  14. #14
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    Not sure what your boat looks like or how its set up but you shouldn't be getting that much water in a 16' boat. I just use a little paint bucket or a powerade bottle with the top cut off. One less thing that could break, know what I'm sayin? Another cool trick is to just pull your plug while you're on step, on my boat at least.

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