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Thread: Flippin' for reds-leader help?

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    Member Firefisher's Avatar
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    Default Flippin' for reds-leader help?

    Hey guys, I think I've got my spinning rod set-up right for reds, but I could use some help with my flyrod. I've got a nine weight rod with floating line. What's the best line to leader attachment, and length of leader for flipping? Should I just use something off the shelf, or can I build my own? Also, I found last year that I got waaaay more hook ups on my spinner than my flyrod-probably due to the fact that I had it set up wrong. Thanks for any help, this site kicks tail!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firefisher View Post
    Hey guys, I think I've got my spinning rod set-up right for reds, but I could use some help with my flyrod. I've got a nine weight rod with floating line. What's the best line to leader attachment, and length of leader for flipping? Should I just use something off the shelf, or can I build my own? Also, I found last year that I got waaaay more hook ups on my spinner than my flyrod-probably due to the fact that I had it set up wrong. Thanks for any help, this site kicks tail!
    Just about anything would work. I use 20-25 pound mono, that way if you foul hook a red or incidentally hook into a king you can break off without losing your $50 fly line. Since it's floating line, make sure you use about 9ft of leader and enough weight to "tap" the bottom. Alot of people swear by straight mono on your fly reel also. Hope this helps, I think you can "feel" the strike or floss better with a fly rod then a spinning or casting rod...

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    I also use a floating line and straight 20lb mono for a leader. Same thing long leader and split shot for me works well. Careful you dont get TOO heavy I think MOST fly lines are rated at 25lbs. I dont know if I've ever heard of anyone breaking a fly line...I have lost a fly line with a 30lb leader breaking the connection at the backing instead of the leader.....live and learn.

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    Guys thanks, that helps a lot. How about the flyline to leader connection, what kind of knot? Albright, nail?

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    Both post here are dead on. I use 25lb Maxima leader. I tie my leader to my flyline with a heavy duty swivel. I run about 8-10 feet of leader to make sure my fly is getting down there. I do use floating line. I find with the leader the line will break or break at the swivel and I never lose an inch of flyline. Plus it makes for a quick tie with the new leader onto the swivel. I dont know the correct name of the swivel it us just those ones with an eye on both ends. Quick and simple and the reds dont know the difference. Been running this setup for 20 plus years. Never had an issue at all.
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    Well I am a straight momo guy. When I was learning to fish the Klutina I watched who had the most success fishing. It was the guys with straight mono. I use a 9wt Loomis with a Lamson Konic Reel spooled with straight 30lb Maxima line, the leader is the same material. Leader length depends on depth of the water (unless you are fishing the Rusian). I do not use the Russian River technique. I pitch it up to 11:00 position and let the line run over my trigger finger and when you get the bump slam them. Have not broke a rod and have good success landing fish. Have landed a few Kings with this set up. Just my theory.

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    some fly lines have a loop at the end already. If that is the case, just do a simple double surgeons loop at the end of your leader and connect them loop to loop.

    The other options are using a braided loop that is made by Rio or you can get some 30 lb (less than a foot) mono and tie a nail knot to the flyline. Then you tie a loop at the end (I usually make this section 4-6" total) and do a loop to loop conection.

    Here is a site to check out.
    http://killroys.com/knots/

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    Quote Originally Posted by cmo1977 View Post
    some fly lines have a loop at the end already. If that is the case, just do a simple double surgeons loop at the end of your leader and connect them loop to loop.

    The other options are using a braided loop that is made by Rio or you can get some 30 lb (less than a foot) mono and tie a nail knot to the flyline. Then you tie a loop at the end (I usually make this section 4-6" total) and do a loop to loop conection.

    Here is a site to check out.
    http://killroys.com/knots/
    I don't fish 'em often, but when I do, this is the set up I use also. I also use three or four split shot spaced along the full length of the leader, as opposed to a single heavier split shot. This seems to help get the leader laying flatter in the water. I have tried straight mono, but I like the way the floating fly line helps to bring the fish to the surface by putting a lot more parasitic drag on the water/current. Way easier to drag them in, across the top of the water, than to let them stay deep in the current.
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    Floating or mono depends on the current and depth. I use both depending on where I am. My Rio lines have a loop on the end to attach a leader. I usually use 10# but sometimes go up to 15#. Never more. Length varies between 8' and 12' depending on conditions. My mono spools all carry 10# Maxima Chameleon. Breaking off a foul hooked fish quickly is better for the fish. I have no trouble landing fair hooked fish on 10#, and I definitely feel things better with lighter line. My splitters are always about 18" up and I want enough weight to get down quickly but not hang up on the bottom.

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    Firefisher what body of water are you thinking about fishing? That will determine what technique will work best.

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    In a river with a high concentration of fish and fishermen - they usually go together - I've found that I foul hook and lose a lot more fish with a lighter weight leader. Over the years and many fish later I now use a minimum 20# leader - usually a 25# or 30# in the Kenai.

    With a heavier weight leader - I use regular mono - I can land my fish much quicker and get it out of the way of the other fishermen. In the event I foul hook a fish I can wrestle it back to bank and quickly release it in the best possible condition.

    I'm also one of the mono line guys for the main line - I use 40# line and attach the leader with a cheap brass barrel swivel that will pass through the eyes of my rod.

    The only negative to this setup occures when you hook a king or a solid snag. Then it takes a real pull to straighten the hook or break the leader somewhere.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Pid View Post
    Floating or mono depends on the current and depth. I use both depending on where I am. My Rio lines have a loop on the end to attach a leader. I usually use 10# but sometimes go up to 15#. Never more. Length varies between 8' and 12' depending on conditions. My mono spools all carry 10# Maxima Chameleon. Breaking off a foul hooked fish quickly is better for the fish. I have no trouble landing fair hooked fish on 10#, and I definitely feel things better with lighter line. My splitters are always about 18" up and I want enough weight to get down quickly but not hang up on the bottom.
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    I'll be on the Russian, and at the confluence there. I don't think I need a loop connection, as I don't plan on changing out leaders, I'll probably tie an albright straight to the fly line. I'm bringing 25# mono, and 25# mono, and 30# fluoro. Should I do about 8' of 25 mono, with a 18" tippet section of 30# fluoro? Or should I use some camo-type leader material? I use the 30# fluoro down here to fool blackfin tunas, they're renowned as a keen eyed fish. Hey guys, where can I go to get into some silvers? I keep reading that they're great sport, and will readily eat lures. My wife will keep a little more interested in casting and reeling, rather than sittin' and flippin.

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    You may not plan on changing out leaders, but with the snags that occur you may be forced to. I don't think it matters to much what kind of mono or fluoro you use, as long as its at lease 20lb test, IMO. I use 30 lb test Amnesia with a nail knot and a surgeons loop if I don't have a loop right on my fly line. From the loop goes your leader or tippet. Using this method allows you to change leaders quicker then having to tie a nail or albright knot right to your fly line each time. The Amnesia also acts kind of like a strike indicator in the water as it is a very visible red color, for what its worth..

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    I'm also running a tag with a surgeons loop in mono then looping my leader to it again you'll trash up a leader pretty quick, it's much faster to run a double surgeons loop to loop then nail knot. I do nail knot the short section to the fly line that I'm going to loop too, and it's USUALLY a 40lb hunk of maxima, if I can ever find the dang spool LOL! Otherwise I'll just nail knot on what I got, if it's the same leader material so be it. Keep your weight off this loop to loop connection to keep from having to redo the hole shindig.

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    Got it! Thanks guys on on the leader tips. Now, any info on the silvers....

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    depends on where I'm at. Obviously fishing a floating line is much funer then a heavy sink tip...but having to add lead to a leader or super heavy weighted fly is even less fun. I opt for less weight on the fly and a heavier sink tip and will carry along some lead core in different lengths and apply as needed. This helps keep the weight on the fly and leader down which makes 'casting' much easier. Basically get the sink tip section out and shoot it more then cast it. Get into the teeny t300 and t400 if you need them and thats about all the casting you're going to do, though you dont typically need something that heavy for silvers. I opt for a intermediate and the leadcore and a back up floating line. Here's where the versitip lines shine!!!

    Flies for me are fuschia bunnies being my go to, popcicles for the slower/back waters areas.

    Leaders I usually drop to 14lb as I'm not dredging the bottom so I'm not tearing the leader up as bad. faster water and more weighted lines I'll jump back up to the 20lb mono. I also run straight mono here.....really on all my salmon fly gear, there's no need and no point to run anything tapered.

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