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Thread: Pitted bore

  1. #1
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    Default Pitted bore

    Couple of questions on pitted bores on ML. Will it keep pitting even if kept clean?? How much pitting before accuracy starts to fail??

    I have an old Knight inline that is very accurate, i thought i kept it clean and dry but it has pitted some. My concern is as the bullet enters the pitted area gas will cut past the bullet.... will it matter if it does??
    I love hunting with ML and next gun will be a percussion. The areas I hunt and methods I use puts me in remote areas for long periods of time. This might sound dumb as I do know how to clean a gun, but how clean/dry will it have to be not to rust?? I used bore butter for storage is that good?? Any advice would be helpful.

    Best sidelock for leftys??

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by yukon254 View Post
    Couple of questions on pitted bores on ML. Will it keep pitting even if kept clean?? How much pitting before accuracy starts to fail??

    I have an old Knight inline that is very accurate, i thought i kept it clean and dry but it has pitted some. My concern is as the bullet enters the pitted area gas will cut past the bullet.... will it matter if it does??
    I love hunting with ML and next gun will be a percussion. The areas I hunt and methods I use puts me in remote areas for long periods of time. This might sound dumb as I do know how to clean a gun, but how clean/dry will it have to be not to rust?? I used bore butter for storage is that good?? Any advice would be helpful.

    Best sidelock for leftys??

    I've seen some muzzleloaders shoot well even with badly pitted bores, though that was mostly with patched round balls. Lubed all-lead conicals seemed to be affected sooner, but still shot well enough if the pitting wasn't severe. I just don't know about sabots from a pitted bore.

    One of the problems you might face is with your powder. Pyrodex fouling is pretty well known for corrosion and pitting if not spotlessly clean, due to the perchlorates in it, according to some authorities. Unfired pyrodex is no prob, but the combustion products are much worse than black powder. And with pitting it gets harder to remove the last vestiges of the fouling from the bottom of the pits. The best method I have found (I've got one that was pitted when I bought it) is the old barrel-in-a-bucket plunger method with COOL water rather than hot and a mild soap, followed by clean water. Dry thoroughly and use a few patches with rubbing alcohol to remove the last of the moisture. Bore butter is a rotten rust protectant, good as it might be as a lube. Better to use Break Free, Ballistol, Remoil or Eezox to protect it after the alcohol swabs. WD-40 will work in a pinch, but in actual testing all the others I listed worked better.

    Following that regimen I've stopped any further deterioration of the barrel on my muzzleloader for three years now. I always run a oiled patch down the bore a couple of days after cleaning, then again a week later just to look for any trace of rust or fouling in guns I plan to store for a long time. Then I hit them every few months with the oiled patch to further check.

    As for lefties, I'm one of the chosen. I think that the best factory sidelock these days in the Lyman, whether the Great Planes Rifle, Great Planes Hunter, Trade Rifle or Deerstalker. I don't know about the Trade Rifle, but the GPR, GPH and Deerstalker are all available in lefties, both in 50 and 50 caliber, and in flint or percussion as well. Midsouth Shooters Supply has about the best prices and supply of anyone I know of on the web.

    BTW- If you contemplate round ball only, get the GPR. If you will rely more on conicals, go with the GPH. If you want to do both, you can get replacement drop-in barrels for not much over a C-note.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Thanks BB that certainly helped. I didnt know that pyrodex residue was that bad. Not knowing that, and relying on the bore butter the way I did was a large part of my problem, Thanks. My son has the Lyman GPR and loves it, it will shoot too.

  4. #4

    Default Bore butter works!

    If the pitting is not too bad, you could probably lap the barrel to take a larger bullet (lead bullets not sabots).
    If you clean the gun with hot water (real hot) and put dry patches thru until dry, then bore butter works fine. I have used it for 20 years in all kinds of BP & Pyrodex guns and never had a problem. You should apply the bore butter with a new bore mop (they can be washed and reused) and if you have a closed breeched MZ you should use a scraper to get out the crud at the breech end. As long as the barrel is hot after cleaning and when you apply the bore butter it will melt to fill all the nooks and crannies. Wipe it out before loading for the hunt and pop a few caps or a pan charge (flinter) before loading for the hunt. Once it is loaded, you can reswab the bore with a light coat of bore butter which will protect the bore and ease the fouling removal.

    2008 Elk taken with 1809 61 caliber British Baker replica (pictured) and my new Antelope rifle (45 Whitworth) made by the late great Don Brown.








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    Brandy Thanks great pictures! I have always been interested in the whitworth rifles and wondered how they shot.... not anymore! Do you cast your own bullets for it?? Hey great Elk too! Hunting season is just around the corner here, I will be using my old inline this year.... I had a custom 35 whelen made this year and my wife would flat kill me if I even suggested another rifle at this point! I do have a 338 fed I could trade tho.....

  6. #6

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    While the rifle is a Whitworth replica, Don pretty well proved that the prize (accuracy) was not worth the quest (making the complicated Whitworth bullet). It uses a convention design 500 gr. .452 cast bullet and will easily hold 1.5" @100 with my 68 year old eyes. Yup the 338 Federal is neat. I had a high grade Kimber that would do 1 MOA with 185 TSXs. I took one cow Elk with it and it broke both shoulders and went quite a way into the dirt bank she was standing in front of. No tracking required.
    Being a Savage 99 freak, I sure do wish they would bring out the 99 again (easy to do with investment castings and CNC) and make a 338 Federal. They won't and that's why excellent 99s bring a grand and up. Of course it wouldn't be much different than my 358 WCF Brush Carbine but still......


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    Brandy you have all kinds of goodies up your sleeve!! I also love the 99, my grandfather gave me an old 300 years ago that I then gave my wife. That gun was lost a few years ago during a snowstorm. I have had 1 358 99. Like a dummy I traded it off..... a friend has a real nice one I hope to get someday. I have hunted quite a bit with the 358 and its my all time favorite cartridge.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by brandy View Post
    Being a Savage 99 freak, I sure do wish they would bring out the 99 again (easy to do with investment castings and CNC) and make a 338 Federal. They won't and that's why excellent 99s bring a grand and up. Of course it wouldn't be much different than my 358 WCF Brush Carbine but still......
    This geezer can harmonize well on this topic! Trio? I've been a fan of 99's since the 60's and have a fair array, but would love to have one in 338 Fed. I'm watching for one, especially an F, with a bum barrel so I can have a 338 Fed built with a clear conscience.

  9. #9
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    BB I knew that picture would get your attention! Brandy is right prices on the 99s have gone thru the roof. A real good friend of mine has an extensive winchester collection, I got him on to the 99s and the sucker is finding good stuff all over! Think he has 4 now including the nicest 358 Ive seen. I have a 338 fed (tikka) and like it... but am holding out for a mint 358 in the 99.

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