View Poll Results: what prop? aluminum or stainless

Voters
33. You may not vote on this poll
  • stainless

    25 75.76%
  • aluminum

    8 24.24%
Results 1 to 16 of 16

Thread: Stainless or Aluminum prop which one? Poll

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    2,448

    Default Stainless or Aluminum prop which one? Poll

    I heard that with an aluminum prop if you hit something the prop goes. If you have stainless the lower unit goes. we have a 115 Yamy and spend out time in the salt.

  2. #2
    Member Rock_skipper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Deltajct
    Posts
    2,499

    Default

    They need to bring back the brass props. Hit a rock and beat it back out.

    The Alum. props are alot cheaper than the stainless, but they will do just as you said, one hit and you can be dead in the water.

    The stainless can take a little bit more of a beating, but if it hits just right it will do the same thing.

    Loose a fin, it's a long trip out if you don't have a spare.

  3. #3
    Member spoiled one's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    3,230

    Default

    I have a pair of F250's. They require the stainless props. Apparently the aluminum ones flex too much. I also ran stainless with my F100's on the old boat. I picked up cruise speed as well as economy. I found that the aluminum set would get dinged up on a regular basis just from regular use. I never had a true prop strike, but I suspect it wouldn't be a favorable outcome with either type. If you are running a saltwater boat with 100 hp or better, my vote goes to the stainless. Plus chicks dig shiny things!
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    anchorage
    Posts
    344

    Default

    I think you are misreading what kgpcr originally asked. He inferred that if you have an AL prop during a prop strike, the prop is what fails - not the outdrive. I contacted an outdrive/prop specialist last year in AK about switching to SS props for my Volvo Duoprop outdrive for any benefits. He said there was no way he would ever put SS props on his outdrive for a couple of reasons - 1) SS props have way less flex so any vibrational wear will occur in the outdrive. After I rebuilt my outdrive this last winter I would have to agree after seeing the tolerances and would rather pay for new props than a new outdrive. 2) With a propstrike with SS props most all of the energy is transferred to the outdrive since the SS props are so much harder and less likely to break. 3) AL props are so much cheaper why would I want to spend that much more on props that will wear out my outdrive so much quicker and risk ruining my outdrive.

    Don't know if you run an outdrive or an outboard but just thought I would lay out some stuff I have learned. Like spoiled one said, his outboards required SS props. Good boating. bushboy


    Quote Originally Posted by Rock_skipper View Post
    They need to bring back the brass props. Hit a rock and beat it back out.

    The Alum. props are alot cheaper than the stainless, but they will do just as you said, one hit and you can be dead in the water.

    The stainless can take a little bit more of a beating, but if it hits just right it will do the same thing.

    Loose a fin, it's a long trip out if you don't have a spare.

  5. #5
    Member Rock_skipper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Deltajct
    Posts
    2,499

    Default

    bushboy, I was talking about props in general.

    You could be right that I was reading this wrong, I thought it was a question about all boating. ( He did say salt)

  6. #6
    Charterboat Operator kodiakcombo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Old Harbor, Alaska, United States
    Posts
    1,360

    Default Bronze/nickel

    For the DPH-A they only sell the bronze/nickle and they are strong! check out the the DPH-A chops thread.
    Providing trips for multilpe species for over 20 yrs
    www.kodiakcombos.com

  7. #7
    Member Akgramps's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Last civilized place on the planet
    Posts
    2,080

    Default

    Kgpcr, I bought a pro-pulse adjustable pitch prop for my 140, it has some advantages, the company is great and stands behind their products, they are not as spendy as a high quality SS, but typically more that an aluminum. For me it was an advantage to try a couple of pitch settings, at least now if I want to spend the big bucks for a SS, I have a pretty good idea of where I need to be.

    I think the big deal with SS props is the material is stronger so the blades can be thinner and therfore more efficent. Most props will flex, alumnium and composite more so than SS, some flex is ok under load, as the prop flexes it also reduces the pitch, this is ok under acceleration as it will return as the boat picks up speed and the load is reduced, this two way flex is called yield.

    I also think the theory about sacrificing the prop over the lower unit is mostly valid with small boats, small motors with small lower units......MHO

    Bottom line is the prop can be the single most important piece of getting the most performance out of your boat, if you spend alot of time using a prop and not running around on the rivers (where damage is frequent), then take the time to do some expermenting.................MHO.........

    Oh crap......all that rambling and I missed the whole point of the poll....................?

  8. #8

    Default Neither

    I also think the theory about sacrificing the prop over the lower unit is mostly valid with small boats, small motors with small lower units......MHO

    Not sure why you made this statement, the Horse Power the big ones puts out and the size of the shaft don't really mean you can hit something stop the prop with 220hp behind it and expect the shaft to go Ha Ha.

    Neither for me I hit stuff, play in shallow water and explore.

    Every prop slips.

  9. #9
    Member ocnfish's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    542

    Default on the adjustable prop ...

    As to this by AKgramps

    "For me it was an advantage to try a couple of pitch settings, at least now if I want to spend the big bucks for a SS, I have a pretty good idea of where I need to be."

    If the blades of the adjustable props are aluminum you still have a variable unaccounted for when you go to stainless steel. The aluminum will flex or bend at peak power output and the stainless will not and they have a better bite in the water. I had to go to a lower pitch on the stainless to achieve the correct engine rpm. This was a very expensive lesson for me because with the swap from aluminum to ss I ended up burnning the valves on on my 5.7 volvo penta V8. I was behind the power curve and the engine was "luging" at higher power settings.

  10. #10
    Member Akgramps's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Last civilized place on the planet
    Posts
    2,080

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by alaskapiranha View Post
    I also think the theory about sacrificing the prop over the lower unit is mostly valid with small boats, small motors with small lower units......MHO

    Not sure why you made this statement, the Horse Power the big ones puts out and the size of the shaft don't really mean you can hit something stop the prop with 220hp behind it and expect the shaft to go Ha Ha.

    Neither for me I hit stuff, play in shallow water and explore.

    Every prop slips.
    Whats not to get? Big motor=beffy gearcase.........of course it doesnt mean its ok to hit stuff, I just dont think aluminum or SS would really matter much with a prop strike that stops the prop.

  11. #11
    Member Akgramps's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Last civilized place on the planet
    Posts
    2,080

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ocnfish View Post
    As to this by AKgramps

    "For me it was an advantage to try a couple of pitch settings, at least now if I want to spend the big bucks for a SS, I have a pretty good idea of where I need to be."

    If the blades of the adjustable props are aluminum you still have a variable unaccounted for when you go to stainless steel. The aluminum will flex or bend at peak power output and the stainless will not and they have a better bite in the water. I had to go to a lower pitch on the stainless to achieve the correct engine rpm. This was a very expensive lesson for me because with the swap from aluminum to ss I ended up burnning the valves on on my 5.7 volvo penta V8. I was behind the power curve and the engine was "luging" at higher power settings.
    The propulse is a composite blade, I think someone does make an adjustable aluminum?
    Of the two props you were using, were they both 4 blades? Identical other than the material? Sorry to hear you damaged a motor, I suspect you were not reaching max RPM's with the new SS? Wouldnt this be noticeable on the tach?

  12. #12
    Member captaindd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Salcha, AK
    Posts
    762

    Default Stainless/nibral

    Stainless or the nibral props are the only way to go. It cost me more for prop repairs with the aluminum than they where worth. You will still get damage to the stainless or nibral props but the can cut thru objects that will total aluminum props. I have never lots an out drive because of striking and object with a stainless prop.

  13. #13
    Member ocnfish's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    542

    Default AKgramps

    I went from being a novice user in 2004 to 2005 to a painfully '$$$' educated boat owner, answer to the question is, yes, I was seeing about 39 to 4000 rpm wot but toping out at 44 mph. Should have been at 44 to 4700 for that engine. When I bought the boat new I opted for ss props for the duoprop, the dealership installed and I thought that they knew what they were doing .... ha ha ha

  14. #14
    Member Akgramps's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Last civilized place on the planet
    Posts
    2,080

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ocnfish View Post
    I went from being a novice user in 2004 to 2005 to a painfully '$$$' educated boat owner, answer to the question is, yes, I was seeing about 39 to 4000 rpm wot but toping out at 44 mph. Should have been at 44 to 4700 for that engine. When I bought the boat new I opted for ss props for the duoprop, the dealership installed and I thought that they knew what they were doing .... ha ha ha
    I have learned the hard expensive way myself, made plenty of mistakes, will keep making some I suspect.............It sucks when you rely on "experts" and still get bad advice.................

  15. #15
    Sponsor potbuilder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Palmer
    Posts
    4,229

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bushboy View Post
    I think you are misreading what kgpcr originally asked. He inferred that if you have an AL prop during a prop strike, the prop is what fails - not the outdrive. I contacted an outdrive/prop specialist last year in AK about switching to SS props for my Volvo Duoprop outdrive for any benefits. He said there was no way he would ever put SS props on his outdrive for a couple of reasons - 1) SS props have way less flex so any vibrational wear will occur in the outdrive. After I rebuilt my outdrive this last winter I would have to agree after seeing the tolerances and would rather pay for new props than a new outdrive. 2) With a propstrike with SS props most all of the energy is transferred to the outdrive since the SS props are so much harder and less likely to break. 3) AL props are so much cheaper why would I want to spend that much more on props that will wear out my outdrive so much quicker and risk ruining my outdrive.

    Don't know if you run an outdrive or an outboard but just thought I would lay out some stuff I have learned. Like spoiled one said, his outboards required SS props. Good boating. bushboy
    Guess your "expert" didn't know that the coupling that connects the top box to the lower unit gearbox has a score(like a shear pin) around it so if you hit something big it will shear off instead of your top box blowing up.
    I've been running a set of stainless on my duoprop for 8-10 years (same set) and i used to put about a 1000 hours on my rig a year, i don't have any more vibration now than when it was new.
    I used to go through a couple of sets of those swedish beer can aluminum props a season after all these years and seasons still the same stainless set. Belive me fishing the rips full of trees, branches, bullkelp, driftwood and who knows what else that come boiling out of the inlets on the copper river i'd set my gear backing up through all that junk and no problems with the stainless props or outdrive.

    Alaska Shrimp Pots

    Rigid & Folding Shrimp & Crab Pots
    Electra Dyne Pot Haulers
    Ropes, Buoys, Bait
    alaskashrimppots.com
    akshrimppots@mtaonline.net
    907 775 1692

  16. #16
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    anchorage
    Posts
    344

    Default

    I'll defer to you Steve and stand corrected. He didn't say he was an "expert" BUT did say he was a "specialist". I'll always respect the opinion of a comm fisher as I know they live by the words they opine.





    Quote Originally Posted by potbuilder View Post
    Guess your "expert" didn't know that the coupling that connects the top box to the lower unit gearbox has a score(like a shear pin) around it so if you hit something big it will shear off instead of your top box blowing up.
    I've been running a set of stainless on my duoprop for 8-10 years (same set) and i used to put about a 1000 hours on my rig a year, i don't have any more vibration now than when it was new.
    I used to go through a couple of sets of those swedish beer can aluminum props a season after all these years and seasons still the same stainless set. Belive me fishing the rips full of trees, branches, bullkelp, driftwood and who knows what else that come boiling out of the inlets on the copper river i'd set my gear backing up through all that junk and no problems with the stainless props or outdrive.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •