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Thread: Case resizing lubes revisisted

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    Default Case resizing lubes revisisted

    I picked up some once fired Winchester nickel .500 S&W cases and tried to resize them in with my RCBS steel sizing die. The long heavy walled straight cases of the .500 are tough to size and the nickel only made them more difficult.

    While the regular brass cases aren't too bad if properly lubed the nickel cases were a challenge even in my A2 press with my normal Lee water based sizing lube. The cases were hard to push into the die and chattered on the way out. I though for certain I was going to pull a rim off and stick a case in the die.

    Searching for something better I tried a number of other lubes I had including some of the Imperial Sizing die wax - that stuff was useless in any thickness - now I know why I still have a nearly full tin left after all these years! Hornady Unique lube was almost as bad although it works OK for other cartridges.

    I tried some RCBS Case Lube-2 wiping it on with my finger as I picked up the cases to size them - same method as I use with the Lee lube. Not much good either. On other cases the RCBS stuff works about like the Lee stuff but is messier to use so I normally go with the Lee lube.

    Then I remembered I had a can of Hornady One Shot someone had given me. I sprayed the cases down, let the stuff dry for a few minutes per the directions and then tried to size them after first cleaning the die and giving it a shot of One Shot. To my pleasant surprise - the cases with lots of lube on them sized with very little effort. Ones with less lube sized with about the same effort as the Lee stuff. A relatively thick even coat was a necessity.

    After sizing a few cases and examining them I noticed they had an odor I recognized. The One Shot smelled just like the RCBS-2 stuff and even looked the same on the cases. Ah-Ha!

    Back to trying the RCBS stuff BUT this time I waited a few minutes for it to dry. Guess what - it worked just like the One Shot when it was dry with a good thick even coating. Cases gluided in and out of the die with little effot.

    Thinking the dry state may make a difference on the Lee stuff I also tried letting the Lee stuff dry but it didn't seem to make much difference.

    I guess I could dilute the RCBS stuff with alcohol or something and spray it on the cases like the One Shot but I'll probably stick with applying the stuff with my fingers for now. I don't size that many nickel .500 cases and the Lee stuff works fine for everything else.

    Anyone else make the conection between the RCBS and One Shot stuff or use the RCBS-2 stuff once it has had a while to dry?
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  2. #2

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    I'm using carbide dies for all my pistol reloading, so not an issue. I'm filing it away for future reference with other difficult sizing jobs. Thanks!

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    Default Carbide dies & lube

    I use carbide dies for much of my pistol loading but I like the steel dies for the long cases. The steel dies can size the cases with a slight taper while the carbide dies make then totally cylindrical.

    I've found using a bit of lube even with carbide dies makes the job alot easier - I put bit on every 5 or 6th case.

    Quote Originally Posted by BrownBear View Post
    I'm using carbide dies for all my pistol reloading, so not an issue. I'm filing it away for future reference with other difficult sizing jobs. Thanks!
    Living the urban lifestyle so I can pay my way and for my family's needs, and support my country. And you?
    ".. ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country" JFK

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    tvfinak:
    I tried the Lee lube tother day, like I said I would. (I told you on another post, a while back.)

    Frankly, it didn't work worth a hoot for me. It was probably the worst kinda case lube I've ever tried. (I don't know what I could have done wrong.)

    I never liked that STICKY RCBS stuff either. I had some around that I'd kept for many years, and recently, I took great pleasure in trashing the stuff.

    I COULD make a connection between the two, but it would be my dislike for both of them.

    I've had good luck with the One-Shot. I haven't used it on anything I considered a TUFF job though.

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    Ive reloaded for 40 years and I use nothing but Imperial sizing die wax.

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    I'm quite new but recently loaded 600 rifle rounds with Frankford Arsenal spray lube. I sprayed a couple times on a cloth and rolled my cases over it. It worked flawlessly and when my press got tough it was time for another squirt.

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    I make all of my own spray on lube using hydrous lanolin and 91% Isopropyl alcohol mixed to gather for all my loading in my auto machines. I do not load any nickel cases at all and throw them away when I get any. The sizing die wax for rifle cases works vary well for me and have never seen or had a dented case from it's use. By the way the RCBS lube is the same thing sold as STP. One can should last you about a century.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tryants." (Thomas Jefferson

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    It's obvious you need to lose the nickel cases then.
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    Default How do you get it to work?

    Perhaps the stuff I've got is old - it is in a metal "tin" container with a while label with green printing on it.

    I tried it from "very sparingly" as it says on the label to a fairly heavy coating and I just won't work at all with the .500 S&W nickel cases - I couldn't force them into the die even with my A2 press.

    I've had this tin for quite a while and give it a try from time to time. It seems to work O.K. with tapered brass rifle cases but I can't see any grat advantage in using it.

    Am I doing something wrong or have they changed the formula or perhaps the stuff just does not work with nickel cases?


    Quote Originally Posted by bob noble View Post
    Ive reloaded for 40 years and I use nothing but Imperial sizing die wax.
    Living the urban lifestyle so I can pay my way and for my family's needs, and support my country. And you?
    ".. ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country" JFK

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    Quote Originally Posted by tvfinak View Post
    Perhaps the stuff I've got is old - it is in a metal "tin" container with a while label with green printing on it.

    I tried it from "very sparingly" as it says on the label to a fairly heavy coating and I just won't work at all with the .500 S&W nickel cases - I couldn't force them into the die even with my A2 press.

    I've had this tin for quite a while and give it a try from time to time. It seems to work O.K. with tapered brass rifle cases but I can't see any grat advantage in using it.

    Am I doing something wrong or have they changed the formula or perhaps the stuff just does not work with nickel cases?


    I don't know if they still make and sell the carbide expander button for the full length sizing dies but Redding used to make and sell these and after trying them I would say you have to be nuts not to have them. I hate to inside lube brass, it does not fit my way of production. But you do need to try inside lubing the cases before you run them through the full length die.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tryants." (Thomas Jefferson

  11. #11

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    I still like the old RCBS lube - that's what I started with years ago and it still works fine. BTW I did buy some Hornady One Shot wax and tried it - it worked ok but it seemed much slower than my method with the RCBS lube. Could be user error though!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 377PFA View Post
    I still like the old RCBS lube - that's what I started with years ago and it still works fine. BTW I did buy some Hornady One Shot wax and tried it - it worked ok but it seemed much slower than my method with the RCBS lube. Could be user error though!
    I've noticed that some people swear by one thing, and others by another.

    I think it's technique, and what you're familiar with and have confidence in.

    I don't doubt what others reccommend, but I have my own preferences. What has worked for me.

    Smitty of the North
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    Smitty - you're exactly right.

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    Default Preferences etc.

    Everyone has there preferences and what has worked for them- absolutley true. It is breaking out of the mold and trying something different that makes life interesting.

    I'm open minded enought to try new stuff and see if there is something better - I guess that is part of the engineer in me. I started this tread to share some information on something new to me- using the RCBS Lube 2 and letting it dry. This was one soluton to a difficult situation - sizing .500 S&W nickel cases in a steel die. Sizing most stuff is easy - the .500 S&W nickel cases was a challenge.

    So I found the One Shot stuff really worked if liberally applied - I may have not tried it otherwise. From that I went on to the RCBS Lube 2 stuff and found it worked fine - if it dried first.

    Sharing experiences is part of the fun.

    Now if I can just get the Imperial stuf to work...


    Quote Originally Posted by Smitty of the North View Post
    I've noticed that some people swear by one thing, and others by another.

    I think it's technique, and what you're familiar with and have confidence in.

    I don't doubt what others reccommend, but I have my own preferences. What has worked for me.

    Smitty of the North
    Living the urban lifestyle so I can pay my way and for my family's needs, and support my country. And you?
    ".. ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country" JFK

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    With the aerosols/spray lubes do you still have to wipe the case after resizing? That's one of the big pains with using the old RCBS lube. After a while your hand is a bit sore - maybe that's why my dad had us wiping the cases when we were young - smart man

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    Quote Originally Posted by 377PFA View Post
    With the aerosols/spray lubes do you still have to wipe the case after resizing? That's one of the big pains with using the old RCBS lube. After a while your hand is a bit sore - maybe that's why my dad had us wiping the cases when we were young - smart man
    I use the Hornady One-Shot a lot and the directions say "wipe the cases off". When I do, it comes off, and I can see it on the paper towell.

    So yes, I'm convinced that you should wipe it off. I don't want any lube on the case when it's fired.

    It can keep the case from sticking to the sides of the chamber, and increase bolt pressure. I will grant you that some believe that this isn't an issue, but I prefer to play it safe.

    Also, on the neck, where if it builds up enough, it can cause it not to be able to expand enough to release the bullet, and increase, pressure.

    I dunno how great the possibility of trouble when firing lubed cases. I've heard that it is done purposely in some special situations to fireform cases.

    As far as I'm concerned, oil or grease/lube on the case should be wiped off. It's really not hard to do, and it's worth the trouble.

    Smitty of the North
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    There is a simple solution to the lube on cases problem. You do not need to handle the brass to remove the lube, ever. I use a detergent before I load the brass and dry. No primers, no powder, no bullet before I remove the lube. Yes it means I clean the brass twice before it's loaded.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tryants." (Thomas Jefferson

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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Al View Post
    There is a simple solution to the lube on cases problem. You do not need to handle the brass to remove the lube, ever. I use a detergent before I load the brass and dry. No primers, no powder, no bullet before I remove the lube. Yes it means I clean the brass twice before it's loaded.
    Every time I've done that, it took a long time for them to dry. AND, it made the PPs harder to clean.

    Smitty of the North
    Walk Slow, and Drink a Lotta Water.
    Has it ever occurred to you, that Nothing ever occurs to God? Adrien Rodgers.
    You can't out-give God.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Al View Post
    There is a simple solution to the lube on cases problem. You do not need to handle the brass to remove the lube, ever. I use a detergent before I load the brass and dry. No primers, no powder, no bullet before I remove the lube. Yes it means I clean the brass twice before it's loaded.

    I do the same thing, however I let the vibratory tumbler do the work for me. After the 1st main cleaning, it only takes 15-20 mins to clean off the imperial sizing wax--- yeah, I use nothing else after trying all the others. I just rub a finger in it every 5 or so rounds, and rub the critical areas real quick while moving it to the press for resizing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smitty of the North View Post
    Every time I've done that, it took a long time for them to dry. AND, it made the PPs harder to clean.

    Smitty of the North
    I refuse to pay for tumbler media any longer, the mail costs are just to high. I don't like to pay for anything twice and have totally moved away from the vibratory corn cob and walnut media. I long ago moved to the 2.00 and 3.00 dollar foot baths and ceramic media with a water mixed solution for detergent. The trick to fast drying is rinsing with boiling water, fast drying is the name of this game. I'm on a well here so my cost for water is the electricity to pump it out of the ground. I don't have to replace the ceramic media like I did the corn cob and walnut media and I buy the detergent a gallon at a time and mix it with water. In other words I have worked this down to cheap and I'm proud of it. I do clean primer pockets but not how you think and I only load my high volume stuff once and do not want it back. For my own brass, I ream the primer pockets to flatten them and make the primer pockets all the same depth. This reams the primer pockets and makes for the same primer seating depth. My own brass for myself is primer seated by a Sinclare seating tool. I seldom shoot more than a few hundred rounds a year of my own stuff any way and it does not take much time to load for myself. I can load in two days time as much as 30,000 rounds of .223/5.56 Nato ammo on my Dillon RL 1000's and 1050 machines. I don't need to spend a lot of time with any of this stuff, because I have worked all this out ahead of time.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tryants." (Thomas Jefferson

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