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Thread: FOB Question

  1. #1
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    Default FOB Question

    Going to make a longer story short.

    I had to adjust my Rip Cord Drop away rest inorder to prevent the FOBs from making contact. It was not laying flat when I relaized, there for the FOB made contact. Overlooked that part in excitment of getting them Made quick adjustments so it would lay flat.
    My question is I can't seem to get the arrow Square too the bow and the Rip Cord rest to lay flat also.
    Its ethier arrow square and the rest not laying flat or the rest laying flat and the arrow not square.
    Is there anything I might be overlooking. Any advice would be nice. Few months till I'm in the mountains.

  2. #2
    Member Marc Taylor's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Maybe I'm not understanding it right, but make sure:

    With launcher in upright position, the center of the shaft passes through the center of the berger hole with the nock point in a neutral (level) position. NOT 1/8" nock-high, or whatever your previous position was.

    That takes care of your string-to-nock relationship and sets the proper height for your rest at full draw.

    The launcher should be falling out of the way with that relationship, no doubt. Please check and get back to us.

    Taylor

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ynggrasshopper View Post
    Going to make a longer story short.

    I had to adjust my Rip Cord Drop away rest inorder to prevent the FOBs from making contact. It was not laying flat when I relaized, there for the FOB made contact. Overlooked that part in excitment of getting them Made quick adjustments so it would lay flat.
    My question is I can't seem to get the arrow Square too the bow and the Rip Cord rest to lay flat also.
    Its ethier arrow square and the rest not laying flat or the rest laying flat and the arrow not square.
    Is there anything I might be overlooking. Any advice would be nice. Few months till I'm in the mountains.
    I had the same problem with my Ripcord when I went to FOBs. First, go to the Starr Flight website, they do have specific guidance for the Ripcord.

    Second, I adjusted my rest to ensure the rest is laying flat after the release. I adjusted the nock point to also ensure proper clearance with the dummy FOB. I then sprayed the FOB with foot power to ensure nothing was touching after a few shots. Finally, I adjusted the vertical on my sight.

  4. #4
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    Default FOB are killen me

    Alright squared the arrows or what not. The drop is still not getting out of the way fast enough. Spent 2 1/2 hours at an archery shop and still at square one. Plus I busted the plastic rest part, luckly he had an extrar. I have been to starrflights website. Which created another question. His he connecting the cord to the actual bow string or the bus cable? I think thats the right term. Ethier way I can not get the rest to drop quick enough.
    I have it set like the website, I think I have it connected to the wrong part on the bow. Any help will be appreciated. Loosing time Sheep hunts in Sept.

  5. #5
    Member Vince's Avatar
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    Default

    i had to remove teh rubber rest pad on mine to get it to work correctly, i was hitting after the rest was down and adjusted the lever a little more forward. paul at starrflight talked me through it as i did it...

    remember to use the square with the rest in the full up postion not in the down ...

    make your knock point LEVEL not knock up like some folks like them with non-fall away rest.
    "If you are on a continuous search to be offended, you will always find what you are looking for; even when it isn't there."

    meet on face book here

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ynggrasshopper View Post
    Alright squared the arrows or what not. The drop is still not getting out of the way fast enough. Spent 2 1/2 hours at an archery shop and still at square one. Plus I busted the plastic rest part, luckly he had an extrar. I have been to starrflights website. Which created another question. His he connecting the cord to the actual bow string or the bus cable? I think thats the right term. Ethier way I can not get the rest to drop quick enough.
    I have it set like the website, I think I have it connected to the wrong part on the bow. Any help will be appreciated. Loosing time Sheep hunts in Sept.
    You must consider adjusted the Rip Cord rest upward, and on my set-up, is was nearly at the upper limit. I had to adjust the nock point upward slightly as well.

    The cord connects to the bus cable that travels downward during the draw.

    Upon checking your work, if you properly adjusted the rest cord, the lock holding the rest up, will disengage, very slightly before full draw.

  7. #7
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    Default Fobs are flying!!! Yesssss!!!!

    Alright, not even an hour at a bow shop up the road. Sent the arrow down range twice. Once and it hit, They made adjustments. Guess my arrow wasn't square tweaked the Rip Cord string and the next arrow flew with out a hit. So now all i have to do is sight my bow back in and I'M BACK IN THE GAME.. Thanks for everyones help.

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    Smile WTG!

    WTG Grasshopper! I am sure you will find you will like them. My problem with hitting the target in the right spot happens, before, at and through the release. If I get through that part successfully, the arrow always hits where I want it to.

  9. #9
    Member Paul Morris's Avatar
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    Let me know how it goes! Sometimes you need to rotate the whole rest to make sure the forks are laying flat (loosen the rest bolt and adjust the whole rest). You will orly know if your nock is set right after you tune to a fixed blade. If the blades are hitting low, lower the nock and vise versa. I have not had much time these days to keep up with the forums, so feel free for anyone to call me with any questions/problems. 1-888-488-4712 (direct to me)

    Thanks!

  10. #10

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    Hello Paul!
    It is great to see you on here. I'm down to the last burger from the muskox I fobbed this past winter. You have a great product (FOB)that I love shooting.

  11. #11
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    Paul! What a treat it was to speak to the owner of the business when I called! I can't wait to get my FOBS!

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    Member Paul Morris's Avatar
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    Thanks for the welcome here on the forum and always great to talk to customers on the phone. Someday we may have sales folks (that also know Archery) for now it is just me manning the FOB phone to assure folks get started on the right foot.

    In the past I forgot to sign up for notifications on threads. Now I am on top of things and will not be a stranger! If anyone has ANY questions or problems I am here to help.

    Best regards,

  13. #13
    Member akrstabout's Avatar
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    4" groups at 80 yards with the Z7, Victory V-1 and FOBS! Loven it!! Thanks Marc Taylor and Full Curl Archery, both places carry FOBS and great accessories!

  14. #14
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    Default Anyone else have this problem.

    Not sure If I can chalk this up to the FOB's but the spines on my arrows seem underspinned. Shooting Gold tip Pro hunters 5575's. I have done a paper test and they are tailing left, I have done a bare shaft test and they are hitting right on, alittle high which means I need to move my knocking point. But when I am shooting at 40yds, I can see them dancing out left then coming back.
    Never seemed to have the problem with fletching. Any one else come across this problem. I have the bowhunters encyclopedia, and know what I can do. Just forking money over for new arrows isn't really an option. will probably take it to a bow shop tomorrow to see if They see the same thing I am.

  15. #15
    Member Paul Morris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ynggrasshopper View Post
    Not sure If I can chalk this up to the FOB's but the spines on my arrows seem underspinned. Shooting Gold tip Pro hunters 5575's. I have done a paper test and they are tailing left, I have done a bare shaft test and they are hitting right on, alittle high which means I need to move my knocking point. But when I am shooting at 40yds, I can see them dancing out left then coming back.
    Never seemed to have the problem with fletching. Any one else come across this problem. I have the bowhunters encyclopedia, and know what I can do. Just forking money over for new arrows isn't really an option. will probably take it to a bow shop tomorrow to see if They see the same thing I am.
    1st I would verify zero contact with the FOB and rest or any arrow holder. I like to use foot powder and spray the outside of the ring wing and look for and scrape marks on the FOB. If you do see contact look for powder residue on the rest/arrow holder and we can take care of that. If all looks good.....

    I have never had much luck with paper tuning (vanes or FOBs) I like to let the broadheads do the work (dynamic tune for your blades). Think of the blade as a tuning device that amplifies anything that is "jacked" (center shot/nock set)

    I would suggest to start by seeing if your blades are hitting in line with your field tips (left/right) and adjust accordingly (i.e. move rest to the left if blades hitting right). If when you move the rest and the only thing happen the group moves (i.e. blades do not come in closer to your filed tips), you have a spine issue. If you can get the blades to hit with your field tips you are good with spine. Next would be to take care of any up/down hit (i.e. if your blades are hitting low, you need to raise the rest or lower the nocking point). When your blades hit with your field points, who cares about paper and go hunting. In my case I shoot Zwickey blades. I tune using 150 grain field points and my blades are 140 grain. I do this to compensate for the large surface area of the blades which puts more load on the front of the arrow (wind resistance). My field points and Zwickey's hit the same hole and if I shot through paper it would look ugly.

    Hope this help! Let me know if you have any questions about my method of blade tuning and how it goes.

    Regards,

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    Thanks for the advice going to give it a try this afternoon after I get off of work. Will let you know how it goes.

  17. #17
    Member Marc Taylor's Avatar
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    I agree with Paul and would like to add: IT'S ALL ABOUT broadhead flight!

    One should ask if his practice points shoot with his broadheads, not the other way around. Yes, I know we shoot more with practice points as a result of the lack of broadhead shooting ranges, but if you are a hunter, the thought process must be reversed.

    I've found myself paper tuning, but I haven't seen the advantage of it. My FOB will control a ROCK on the end of my properly spined shaft, and once the arrow stabilizes, which is much quicker with FOBs, it's all mute.

    Just a thought. As long as a human hand is holding that riser grip during a shot, there is an inherent inconsistency present.

    Taylor

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    Would have made it out earlier to shoot but weather didn't cooporate. So, I noticed no contact that I could tell with paper powder. Made some minor adjustments to my rest, alittle left and down and both fieldtips and broadheads are flying better and hitting close to each other, not exactly like a bullet, but it is more now of a tighter spiralling flight going down range than a dramatic looking left to right thing I was seeing earlier in the week. Think my broadheads and field tips might not be sitting flush with the insert or somewhere along those lines. But like you had mentoined Taylor:

    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Taylor View Post
    I agree with Paul and would like to add: IT'S ALL ABOUT broadhead flight!



    Just a thought. As long as a human hand is holding that riser grip during a shot, there is an inherent inconsistency present.

    Taylor

    -[]--------->
    Thanks again, sure I will get them flying like a bullet, Roughly a month too go.

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