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Thread: Brass question

  1. #1
    Member sniper3083006's Avatar
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    Default Brass question

    I have a bunch of Winchester Supreme silver (nickel plated ??) brass. Is there any difference reloading this stuff than regular brass?

    Rich

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    RCBS says it will damage your sizing die. (The nickel coating flakes off)

    Some people have had that experience too.

    Others, claim they've used it extensively, without any problem.

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    Member gunbugs's Avatar
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    If the plating appears to be damaged or flaking, then throw away that piece of brass. Otherwise, you should be fine. Load as usual.
    "A strong body makes the mind strong. As to the species of exercises, I advise the gun. While this gives moderate exercise to the body, it gives boldness, enterprise, and independence to the mind."

  4. #4
    Member raoul duke's Avatar
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    Default nickel brass

    ive loaded 270 wsm cases that are nickel plated for three years or so, at least three loadings. when i read a similar post a few month ago i dug out all of those loads and spent cases, and found no signs of failure in the plating. i do use rcbs dies and have had no issues or signs of wear to the finish or dies. i use lots of lube, wether carbide .44 dies or necked rifle, im kinda hopeful this thread provides a little more insight. just one mans observations, thanks for listening.
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    Member c04hoosier's Avatar
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    I have reloaded a bunch of nickel plated Federal cases in .300 Wby without a bit of trouble. Some of them are on their 3rd loading. I use Lee dies. The particular load I use is nowhere near max so they live a pretty easy life, but no problems so far...

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    Member sniper3083006's Avatar
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    Default Thanks all

    I really preci8 the info. Thanks again

    Rich

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    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Like Gunbugs said check them and chuck the bad ones.

    I have done more 357 nickel brass than I want to think about with good results. Yes I have ruined dies when I missed flaking cases but it was my fault for not inspecting every case. For me they seem to go about 5 or 6 loadings in 357 before the flaking starts at the mouth. Also they are harder than normal brass so take a little more force to size so I lube them even in a carbide die. I prefer normal brass so I donít need to watch it so close but people give me nickel all the time so I use it. Just understand that they can score a die if you miss a flaking case then check them, lube them, and proceed as normal.
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    Member marshall's Avatar
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    I load thousands of once fired 40S&W Speer nickel brass that I get from the local LE range, no problems at all.

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    Member BrentC's Avatar
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    I've never had a problem with the nickel brass either.

  10. #10
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    Default Nickeled cases and scratched dies

    When I started loading the .38 and .357 back in the early 60 it was common for nickel cases to scratch the sizing dies. The carbide sizing die was the remedy as the .38/.357 was very popular caliber to reload back then and nickeled cases were quite common.

    Nickel plating is probably better now but I still use carbide dies for nickel plated cases where possible. I remember polishing out a few scratches in my steel dies way back then when carbide dies were expenisve on my paper route budget.

    One warning for nickel cases - ultrasonic cleaning will take the plating off if you leave them in the cleaner too long. The same goes for nickel plated pistols.

    Quote Originally Posted by ADfields View Post
    Like Gunbugs said check them and chuck the bad ones.

    I have done more 357 nickel brass than I want to think about with good results. Yes I have ruined dies when I missed flaking cases but it was my fault for not inspecting every case. For me they seem to go about 5 or 6 loadings in 357 before the flaking starts at the mouth. Also they are harder than normal brass so take a little more force to size so I lube them even in a carbide die. I prefer normal brass so I donít need to watch it so close but people give me nickel all the time so I use it. Just understand that they can score a die if you miss a flaking case then check them, lube them, and proceed as normal.
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    I had flaking problems early in my handloading with .357 nickel cases. I avoid them all.

  12. #12
    Member Alaska Bush Hunter's Avatar
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    Thumbs up WW Nickle good stuff

    Both the WW and FC Nickle are a little thicker my require inside the neck dry lube when sizing.........but other than that excellent brass.


    Rem Nickle bulk brass the nickle flaked off......very bad!

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    I'm using Winchester nickel brass for my 30.06. These were once fired from Win Failsafe Supreme factory ammo and so far no flaking, but 90% needed a lot of trimming after the initial firing.
    I'm using RCBS liquid on the pad and they are definately harder to resize than my regular brass. I have only done 50, but I haven't used any lube inside of the neck which I think I should on the next little batch.
    I have a case of PMP 30.06 I bought years ago and have started resizing the ones I've shot and that brass is suprisingly good and needs no trimming, go figure. It was quite a bit cheaper than anything else too.


    Mountaintrekker

  14. #14
    Member Alaska Bush Hunter's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Same

    No load the same
    WW Nickle is good brass

    30-06
    IMR 4350 @ 57.0
    180 Nosler Part
    WLR or Fed 210M
    WW Nickle Brass

    On the upstroke of the press you might strugle a bit if you don't lightly lube inside the neck with Q tip.

    2700 FPS load

    Never was a fan of PMC brass......the necks were weak on mine.......but cheaper.

  15. #15
    Member RMiller's Avatar
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    I have never had trouble with nickel brass.

    I would just treat it like a new component and make sure to properly work up my loads accordingly.
    "You have given out too much reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later".

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    Quote Originally Posted by RMiller View Post
    I have never had trouble with nickel brass.

    I would just treat it like a new component and make sure to properly work up my loads accordingly.
    I think ALSO, it may be how much the case hasta be sized. (If your gun has a large chamber it would need to be sized more.)

    For example, NEW brass is hardly touched the first time it is sized, before the case has been fired the first time.

    Smitty of the North
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  17. #17
    Member Big Al's Avatar
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    The rifle case (nickel plated) that caused most of the trouble were the one's with the Speer head-stamp. Pistol brass that was the big problem was the Winchester and all others, the Winchester was the worst I ever saw for peeling and flaking. The Speer was vary bad from the first reload on. A real tip is the material of the carbide dies, Redding uses a different carbide than all the others and for and off the shelf die they are vary good.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tryants." (Thomas Jefferson

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by tvfinak View Post

    One warning for nickel cases - ultrasonic cleaning will take the plating off if you leave them in the cleaner too long. The same goes for nickel plated pistols.
    Huh?? Just goes to prove that even an old dog can learn new tricks! I did not know that! Thanks tvfinak! I've always just thrown all of my pistol brass together. Looks like a little sorting might be in order.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by elmerkeithclone View Post
    Huh?? Just goes to prove that even an old dog can learn new tricks! I did not know that! Thanks tvfinak! I've always just thrown all of my pistol brass together. Looks like a little sorting might be in order.
    Yup, me neither.

    tvfinak comes in handy, once in a while.

    We'll try not to get him too POed, so he won't leave the forum.

    Smitty of North
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    Has it ever occurred to you, that Nothing ever occurs to God? Adrien Rodgers.
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