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Thread: Halibut line

  1. #1
    Member AKShawn's Avatar
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    Default Halibut line

    I am replacing the line on my halibut rods for the first time and I am looking for sugestions brand/type and pound test. Thanks in advance!
    AKShawn

  2. #2
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    Default 80 pound spectra

    or 100 pound spectra

  3. #3
    Member pike_palace's Avatar
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    Default

    You can't beat 80# Spectra. With 200# ganione line as a leader, you have a fine Halibut rig.
    "Ya can't stop a bad guy with a middle finger and a bag of quarters!!!!"- Ted Nugent.

  4. #4

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    80# spectra, too. My favorite is Tuf-Line.
    Year round saltwater fishing adventures in Homer, AK.
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  5. #5
    Member AKShawn's Avatar
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    Default Thanks

    Sounds like everyone is really happy with Spectra... Probably what I will go with, I was just trying to see what all everyone else was using.
    AKShawn

  6. #6
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    I go a bit lighter on my spectra 50 or 65#, but use a topshot of 80# mono. If you are prone to getting lines crossed then the heavier line gives you some abrasion resistance, but so long as you use a ~10' top shot of good mono, there is little reason to use the really heavy llines, and the lighter lines allow you to use a bit lighter weight to hold bottom.

  7. #7
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    Default PowerPro

    I always use 80# Moss Green PowerPro. Gotta put a bit of backing on the reel or you'll need about 1000 yds. If this is your first run with spectra make sure to test your knots. PowerPro is really slick so some knots won't hold.

  8. #8
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Two things to note with braid, knots are critical, use the wrong knot and you'll loose 1/2 the lines strength. The other thing is the line has to be put on the spool under load. If you don't put the line on under load, it will dig in on itself and bind up the reel.

    And yes conventional but reels need a backing, typically 50-70yds of 80# dacron will do the trick. I prefer to load either 200 or 300 yds of line on a reel. That gives you the ability to fish deep, and if you get the end of the line abraided, cut off 50-100' and still have enough line to go fishing.

  9. #9
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    Default

    just dont wrap the line around your hand or finger, itll be gone...stuff isnt very forgiving, but amazing to fish with, you can feel anything when jigging with tuffline. good fishing to ya

  10. #10
    Member Cap'n Ron's Avatar
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    Default Brands of Specta...

    There are a lot of them, but the PowerPro is the one I use now because it is stiffer, less likely to loop aroung the tip of the rod, easier to tie knots in and less knot slippage. There are lots of new brands on the market, you do need that added body. I get mine in large spools, usually 1500 yards, and many of the brands on the market are designed for bass fishing, not halibut, and are only available in 150 yard or 300 yard spools.

    I'll agree with Mutley on the Tuf-Line IF you can find the original, it was white with a black line through it...that line was a thread of dacron that gave it a lot of the body that the PowerPro has...the Tuf-Line Plus is pure spectra and I avoid all the pure spectra lines unless they are coated like the PowerPro...because they are so soft they easily loop around the tip of the rod, fray more easily and are harder to hold a knot.

    Learn the Palomar knot, very simple and your best friend when using superbraid/specta (they are pretty much the same thing...)

    By the way, this line is expensive but lasts a long time. I don't always use a mono leader, depends on what I am doing. For deep fishing, the fish can't see the line anyway, like salmon do. But, if there is a chance of abrasion, then you need the mono top shot. I use spectra/superbraid on salmon spinning rods too, works great, but there you do need a mono leader sometimes unless the fish are crazy to bite...

    Pay attention to Paul H: yes, you must have some tension on the line when filling the reel! And, if a fish breaks off, put some tension again on the line when reeling in the slack...or like he says, it can bind.

  11. #11
    Member Maast's Avatar
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    Default

    Check out this link:

    http://www.sportfishingmag.com/techn...gth-53412.html

    And

    http://www.sportfishingmag.com/article.jsp?ID=43558 (very good read)

    20 pound Power Pro braid had an actual break strength of 36 pounds, I know the 80 lb Power Pro is stronger than 80 pounds, one of my guests had snagged the anchor rode at the 200 foot mark and pulled the 22lb anchor, 28 pounds of chain, and 200 feet of rode to the surface.

    We took turns and I know we were pulling well over 100 lbs on it at times.

    Top strength lines from the link, I'd think it'd scale up to their larger sizes.
    Berkley Fireline Crystal 20 lb line - 47.1lbs break point
    SpiderWire Stealth Moss Green 20lb - 39.7 break point
    SpiderWire Ultracast Hi-Vis Yellow 20lb - 51.6 break point
    Triple Fish Bully Braid Moss Green 20lb - 48.4 break point
    Last edited by Maast; 06-04-2010 at 09:41. Reason: formatting
    2696 Sea Raider Pilothouse
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  12. #12

    Default

    Here's another useful statistic for you: By switching from 80# dacron to 80# braid, I was able to cut the weight of my normal jigs and sinkers in half or more in any water depth.

    When you can go from 16 oz sinkers to 8 oz and from 8 oz jigs to 4 oz, the savings in lead costs pays for that "expensive" braid in one fishing trip sometimes. Not to mention that the lighter weights are easier on your bod on a long day.

  13. #13
    Member stevelyn's Avatar
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    Default

    Power Pro 80#.
    Now what ?

  14. #14
    New member Sockeye Salm's Avatar
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    Default

    Tuf-Line Plus, Guides Choice, 60#

  15. #15
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    65lb power pro is my choice. 80 is great as well. I do love Power Pro!

  16. #16
    Member Cap'n Ron's Avatar
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    Default 244 lb. halibut...

    on 50 lb. PowerPro, says it all!

  17. #17

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    Go with Tuff Line

  18. #18

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    PowerPro and Tuf-Line are both Spectra so there really isn't a BIG difference in them other than some slight differences in manufacturing that some people prefer, like the Cap'n says, so I don't think you can go wrong either way. I find that for my purposes the "coated" lines aren't a big advantage, but that's just the way I fish. So I tend to purchase whichever is cheaper for what I am looking to buy at the time. Either way you're getting a much higher breaking strength for the line class you are using.

    I do hate to be disparaging to Cabela's because they have been very good to me in terms of customer service, but I bought a bunch of their Ripcord SI Plus and I don't like it. It seems to "unravel" and I've actually had it break on me when I had a client fighting a nice king. If you look at it really closely it looks like the braiding on it is just unraveling and I have a feeling that's causing some weakening in it somehow.
    Year round saltwater fishing adventures in Homer, AK.
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  19. #19

    Default diawa line

    Diawa Dendo 70lb. has anchored my 24 ft boat at 1500 ft. for hrs. before we bit the bullet and cut the line ,it's thin with no (sponge) and we can run 4000 ft on Miya epoch reels,it's colored coded so you can easily count the depth only bad thing is it doesn't stand up to rocks well but at great depths there aren't many rocks .
    For 300 ft. und up I use 50 lb. power pro and have landed a 350 lb. salmon shark and numerous halibut over 100 lb on it and have even had problems with hooking the bottom strong enough to anchor on
    Dave

  20. #20
    Member Zinker's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cap'n Ron View Post
    Learn the Palomar knot, very simple and your best friend when using superbraid/specta (they are pretty much the same thing...)

    IMO the best knot for Specta. This kind of line will cut into itself.

    Brad

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