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Thread: Getting the oil out

  1. #1
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    Default Getting the oil out

    Motor is a 496/385 hp inboard Volvo Penta that I owned for the last 6 years.
    For the life of me I can't get the old oil out when doing an oil change. First I tried the manual pumps and after 2 hours I would end up with 4 quarts if I was lucky. Bought a different type manual and same story.

    Now I sprung for a 12 volt Jabsco with the same results. The motor is warmed up till the temperature guage reads about 150 degrees. The pick up tube is inserted down the dip stick hole, plastic container is vented. I even removed the oil filler cap.

    No matter what I do the oil just slowly sputters up and out. Pump has been running now for 30 minutes and doubt a quart has been sucked up yet.

    Tried lowering and raising the trailer as well as moving the plastic pick up tube into different locations.

    What the heck am I doing wrong? Once after 5 hours when I finally got up every drop only ended up with 4 quarts and motor is supposed to hold 8. There is a threaded fitting around where you insert the dip stick, what is this fitting for?
    Tennessee

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    Member Alaskanmutt's Avatar
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    Default If you have a transom drain hole

    2000 Bayliner Ciera Express 2452
    5.0 Mercruiser Alpha 1

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    Nice option, but can't access the oil pan unless the engine is pulled out of the boat.
    Tennessee

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    Member spoiled one's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowwolfe View Post
    There is a threaded fitting around where you insert the dip stick, what is this fitting for?
    I have one of these: MITYVAC

    It screws onto the threads you mentioned. A few pumps and the oil syphons out. I use mine on a pair of F250's, but I suspect it would work for you if the threads match up. You are welcome to give it a try if you would like. It works great.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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    Member Dupont Spinner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spoiled one View Post
    I have one of these: MITYVAC

    It screws onto the threads you mentioned. A few pumps and the oil syphons out. I use mine on a pair of F250's, but I suspect it would work for you if the threads match up. You are welcome to give it a try if you would like. It works great.

    Yep that is what you need. The dipstick tube actually goes pretty close to the bottom of the pan to double as an oil removal tube.

    Surprised that they did not add the hose to the bottom of the pan before putting the engine in. I have both and the pan drain nets me almost a full quart more then the dipstick tube. Also any moisture will also collect in that hose...have never seen any but the water will settle there.

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    Thanks for the offers but if the electric pump can't get it out in a reasonable time been there and done that with several manual types.
    3 hours of the electric pump spurting netted me one gallon of oil. Next time I am going to pump it out as soon as we pull up to the docks so I know the oil is hot and thinner and see how that works.

    If there is a hose coming out of the rear of the pan it would be impossible to get to, so no sense exploring that issue.
    Tennessee

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowwolfe View Post
    Thanks for the offers but if the electric pump can't get it out in a reasonable time been there and done that with several manual types.
    3 hours of the electric pump spurting netted me one gallon of oil. Next time I am going to pump it out as soon as we pull up to the docks so I know the oil is hot and thinner and see how that works.

    If there is a hose coming out of the rear of the pan it would be impossible to get to, so no sense exploring that issue.
    Pumping hot oil is so much easier. Next time, make sure your engine is totally warmed up and do it. And I used to do mine on what I suspected was the last time I went out for the year right in the parking lot in Seward when I got back. I change the oil, cleaned up, and then carved the fish......Nice thing about changing it at the harbor is they have an oil dump off point really handy. Great place to do it in my opinion.

    I went through exactly what you are describing with my old Bayliner every time I tried to do it with the oil cold. With it warm, it would only take 15-20 minutes or so. The difference for my engine was incredible. Of course, it helps to do it with a fully charged battery......But that is whole 'nuther story.......

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    Member spoiled one's Avatar
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    I know it is difficult for an old dog to learn a new trick, but the mityvac will work. It creates a seal around your dip stick hole. (That is what the threads are for.) It closes off the system allowing a vacuum to form. That is why your other pumps won't work I believe. I have used it on mine without prewarming the motors and it pulls it all out. It does work much better when warm, though.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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    Member alaskabliss's Avatar
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    Quote: And I used to do mine on what I suspected was the last time I went out for the year right in the parking lot in Seward when I got back. I change the oil, cleaned up, and then carved the fish......

    I was under the impression that it is best to change in the spring since the motor sits for so long and gets condensation and other contaminates. Also, it is recommended to change oil in a vehicle every six months due to the oil breaking down over time and not just use.

    Am I wrong in this approach?

    Also I would try Spoiled one's offer with his pump. He seems to know a thing about these boats and plus it's free to try.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by alaskabliss View Post
    Quote: And I used to do mine on what I suspected was the last time I went out for the year right in the parking lot in Seward when I got back. I change the oil, cleaned up, and then carved the fish......

    I was under the impression that it is best to change in the spring since the motor sits for so long and gets condensation and other contaminates. Also, it is recommended to change oil in a vehicle every six months due to the oil breaking down over time and not just use.

    Am I wrong in this approach?

    Also I would try Spoiled one's offer with his pump. He seems to know a thing about these boats and plus it's free to try.
    Bliss,

    Perhaps by pointing out that Spoiled One is knowledgable, and by quoting me in the way you did it seems you are pointing out that I don't have a clue. Maybe I am wrong, but it seems that way.....I actually went to school once upon a time to be an automotive engineer, so I actually really have an idea of what I am talking about when it comes to engines and oil.....Benefit of the doubt here. Maybe I am wrong. After all I had to settle on being a math teacher......

    You can change in the spring if you want, and you will have slightly better protection at least in theory.... Just remember what breaks oil down: it is using it, heat, and oxidation. Certainly there are other factors as well. Clean oil stored over the cold winter will oxidize slightly, but that is it. It isn't being used, it is cold and the oxidation that is going on is going on really, really slow. In the spring when you are ready to go, it is almost new, but I concede it would be best to drain in the fall, winterize, and then fill in the spring to avoid any troubles at all...

    Now as far as leaving it all that old oil in there all winter and changing it in the spring like you implied? Well that is ok too if you like leaving a corrosive mix of acid that will pit and corrode your main, rod, and cam bearings, all the chemistry in place for lots of sludge that will build up over time, and you are ok with leaving all the the water that has formed from the heating and cooling of your engine from the entire season that will form rust. Sound good? Well go ahead do it all you want. A number of my friends really appreciate this that are still working in the trade. Of course, I do concede that all of this will slow due to temperature just I noted that the new oil will do because of oxidation.

    Of course, do what you want. It is your engine, your boat, and your money. But leaving old oil in there for all year long to change in the spring is a formula that I can't afford to do. In fact, it sounds like a really bad idea to me and I wouldn't recommend it at all.

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    Since I never tried the Mityvac can't say it will not work. I'll give Spoiled one a shout later this summer and see how it works. But I have closed off the dipstick hole with tape at the suggestion of others with no difference in the sucking
    Thanks for the offer.
    Tennessee

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    Member Akgramps's Avatar
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    Just wondering.........is changing the oil on a IB typically this difficult?
    I never gave it much thought as I have a OB, but I can now visualize that either there is not a drain plug or virtualiy impossible to access???????
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
    TR

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    It isnt difficult. Filters are out in the open, oil pour spout is huge and easy to find as well. The only difficulty I have is getting the old oil sucked out and that could be my fault for not warming the motor up enough or using the right suction tube.

    When I find the right suction tool it would be an easy 10 minute job or less.
    Tennessee

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    Member Alaskanmutt's Avatar
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    Default Depending on the boat

    The link to the hose I posted isn't hard to install. It is messy though. Basically if you can reach your oil drain plug at all then you can install it. Bad part is draining the oil into the bilge. But if you can get the oil out then it will be less messy. Once the oil drain hose is installed then when you want to drain the oil you stick the hose out the transom drain hole and remove the brass cap. Glug glug all gone. put the cap back on a d pull it back into the engine compartment, zip tie it above the oil pan so if the cap somehiow comes off it won't drain.


    Of course if yours in one of the totally impossible to reach plugs then it won't work. But if you ever pull the engine I would install one. They make life so much easier.
    2000 Bayliner Ciera Express 2452
    5.0 Mercruiser Alpha 1

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    Member alaskabliss's Avatar
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    Default TR

    Sorry if you thought I quoted you in a negative way. Not my intent. I was asking the question as in what is better. Your response did help me understand your reasoning for changing in the fall and makes very good sense to me and may be my new practice. Once again sorry to ruffle your feathers, not my intent

  16. #16
    Member Dupont Spinner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alaskanmutt View Post
    The link to the hose I posted isn't hard to install. It is messy though. Basically if you can reach your oil drain plug at all then you can install it. Bad part is draining the oil into the bilge. But if you can get the oil out then it will be less messy. Once the oil drain hose is installed then when you want to drain the oil you stick the hose out the transom drain hole and remove the brass cap. Glug glug all gone. put the cap back on a d pull it back into the engine compartment, zip tie it above the oil pan so if the cap somehiow comes off it won't drain.


    Of course if yours in one of the totally impossible to reach plugs then it won't work. But if you ever pull the engine I would install one. They make life so much easier.
    Also you can connect most evacuation devices to that hose and it helps to remove cold oil.

    There is a brand of boat out there that I know is about impossible to get to anything just under the deck. They wedge the engine in there. Just to change the starter you either need to be gumby, take the manifold off or lift the engine a little. I just wonder sometimes where these designers and engineers get their ideas or if they do any of the work themselves. I believe if they did things would be a little different.

  17. #17
    Member Alaskanmutt's Avatar
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    Default They probably

    have Oompah Loompahs as mechanics....
    2000 Bayliner Ciera Express 2452
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  18. #18

    Talking Stop the insanity people!

    You guys are killing me!
    Randy, I use the cheapest hand container pump they sell, it is just a siphon trick.
    I run the longest tube that came with the thing right down the dipstick tube, BUT you must work it up off the bottom a bit or you won't get a good siphon. Warming it up helps, but I have forgotten to do that before and it is still the siphon that gets it done.

    GO GET A MCDONALD'S MILK SHAKE AND SUCK ON IT WITH A STRAW, WHEN THE STRAW WANTS TO COLLAPSE AND SUCKS TO THE BOTTOM YOU'LL UNDERSTAND WHAT I MEAN.

    Forget the expensive electric ones and sealing it off, just go get a milkshake and bring me one while your at it. (Chocolate is fine, Vanilla is fine also, or whatever your having...)

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