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Thread: Bent Drain Plug Hole

  1. #1
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    Default Bent Drain Plug Hole

    I have an SeaArk 18' with the jet tunnel (the older rectangular tunnel - 2003 I think).

    There are drain holes on each side of the tunnel sitting down in the runners that go the full length of the boat. It looks like the drain holes are a 1" pipe that was welded into the bottom of the runners. My problem is that the previous owner either hit something pretty hard on the port side drain hole or it was bent bouncing on the trailer (trailer bunks put most the pressure on the rear 6 inches of the boat, but that's another issue). The port drain hole is bent into a slight "D" shape, with the flat side down. Structurally it appears to be fine, all the welds look great, but the drain plug doesn't fit very well into the hole and it slowly leaks water. It leaks slowly enough that it isn't a big problem, but it is pretty annoying and adds weight.

    Anyone have a suggestion on how to bend this back without damaging the hull? Other fixes?

    Thanks!
    Chris

  2. #2
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    Default Just a suggestion

    I've worked on a lot of pontoon boats and aluminum fishing boats, with smaller drain , did a lot of welding on them all . If the project were given to me , the first thing I would do is find a heavy wall scheduel 80, 1" pipe thread and grease. Ideally, I thread my own pipe so that i have a very long taper to work with . with grease , probibally something with graphite in it , i'd slowly work the tool pipe in the threads I would want to reform them not re cut them. watch the serfaces very closely the metal is being reformed ,because not all metals like being pushed around , avoid changing center while threading in and out, just like running a tap .
    this might bring you to 80 or 90% but I wouldn't push it more than necessary. and in time running the plug in and out the threads will eventually find their home I wouldn't use anything but a brass or iron plug.
    No plastic and certainly no aluminum plugs they are the worst. Also I would use teflon tape or a non hardening gasket sealer on the threads , even when things are normal. aluminum is like the worst metal for threads.

  3. #3
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    Default

    I would take a pipe or a rod and hammer it into the drain making it round again or you could re-drill the hole; or add tape/ sealer to seal the plug. Are you sure there no small cracks under the drain?

    If you want I may be able to help you.

  4. #4
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    Default another option...

    I have a 20' seaark MVJT, as do 2 other friends. They tend to get egg shaped, over the years.No biggie. We run or plugs from the inside of the transom. ON the starbird side I cut out an access hole with a jig saw to put the plug in. The port side should have an access spot There's alot 'advice" you'll get, but this works for us really good. Plus when you skim over gravel etc. your plug(s) won't get ripped out.

  5. #5
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    Default

    I'd try the big hammer method using a lubed-up connecting bar (tapered bar) to reshape the drain tube. A hand-held rattle hammer pushing the bar may work even better.

  6. #6
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    Default Thanks Guys

    That was quick! Thanks for the ideas, I'll give them a try.

    I do put my drain plugs on the inside, but even on the inside it's a little bent out of shape...

  7. #7
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    Default Just take a spud bar

    and slowly tap it back into shape. a spud bar is a tapered bar used in the oilfields to match up black pipe. Looks like a giant metal toothpick with a wrench on one end. Did this myself a lot of times with my flat bottom. Worked like a charm
    If a dipnetter dips a fish and there is no one around to see/hear it, Did he really dip?

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