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Thread: My windlass install, how does it look?

  1. #1
    Member Maast's Avatar
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    Default My windlass install, how does it look?

    Did I make any obvious mistakes and screw it up?

    Its a Lewmar Pro-Fish 700, I chose that because it takes half inch rode, which means I could put more rode in the locker.

    The roller is a windline brm-4 with the top roller removed since the rocna 22 didnt fit right with it, the anchor self-launches with no problem, but I need to put a top bail on it to make sure the rode stays in the roller during rough anchoring.

    The chain is attached to the base of the rocna via a stainless shackle that I safety wired, the end of the shaft of the anchor is attached to the chain via a loop of 650 lb net cord, giving me 1300 lbs of breaking strength.

    I fed 600 feet of wet 8 plait (soaked in a cooler) and 25 feet of chain through it without issue, except the chain/rode splice gave it a bit of trouble. I could probably put another 200 feet in there if I had to.

    I'm also putting a cl220 clamcleat and a 8 inch bolt-on aluminum cleat.

    The actual windlass was easy to install, running the 4 AWG wire from the house batteries in the transom was a pain in the butt.

    So, did I screw anything up?
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    2696 Sea Raider Pilothouse
    "Dominion"

  2. #2
    Member jrogers's Avatar
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    Default

    Maast,

    One thing to watch is that you have enough freefall between the windless and the anchor rode in the locker. I am not sure what the number is off hand, it is something like a foot or so. If it is not enough it will cause you problems with tangling. The other comment I have is that I initially had a problem with the windless tearing up the splice between the rode and the chain. A friend told me that Alfonso at B&J's in Anchorage is really good at doing these splices. I took my existing setup in two 5 gallon buckets (one with the chain and one with the rode) into their store, and he re-spliced it for something like $8. It has worked great for a year and has not frayed one bit so far.

    Jim
    2009 Seawolf 31'
    www.seawolfmarine.com
    Fully Loaded

  3. #3

    Smile maybe...

    It looks as though it is mounted on a hinged access door. I think your putting a lot of faith in and stress on those hinges if you are anchored for awhile in rough seas. Just my honest opinion and I could be wrong, but I always heard that was a no no. I am looking at replacing my windless and the Lewmar Pro-Fish 700 is what I was looking at. Where did you get yours? They are pricey.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by .338 mag. View Post
    It looks as though it is mounted on a hinged access door. I think your putting a lot of faith in and stress on those hinges if you are anchored for awhile in rough seas. Just my honest opinion and I could be wrong, but I always heard that was a no no. I am looking at replacing my windless and the Lewmar Pro-Fish 700 is what I was looking at. Where did you get yours? They are pricey.
    Never had a windlass, but from what I've read you're not supposed to let the windlass take the strain when anchoring and are supposed to tie off the rode to a cleat. I don't see a cleat in the photo but I'd think one could easily be installed. Agree about the hinges, though.

  5. #5
    Member Maast's Avatar
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    Default

    Its not on a hinged lid, the rode locker box has two doors on either side of a center 1/4" thick mounting plate.
    I dunno what alloy that plate was, but it took my hole saw a lot longer to go through it than the other holes I'd cut.

    I have about 2 feet from the locker top to the bottom of the locker, when filling it I had to rake it to one side or the other at about the 200 and 400 foot mark.

    I dont have a foot switch, but I could reach the dash switch easy enough through the open window.

    To mark it I used self-fusing silicone tape (F4/rescue tape) in a color code every 25 feet. I'll see how it does.

    I'm waiting for my clamcleat to arrive so I can install the cleats, I'm going to put the clamcleat directly below the rode so I can just step on it to force it into the cleat to secure it.
    The standard cleat will go an inch to the left or right of the clamcleat so if I'm going to overnight or anchor during a storm I can secure the rode to that instead.
    I've got a 3/8 by 4" by 20 inches 6000 series aluminum backing plate to put under the deck.

    I got the windlass online at Hodges Marine, it was 790 bucks (ouch!) if this one ever goes out I'll probably get a Good windlass, they're made to anchor without having to secure the rode/chain.

    If you get the 700, getting the 4 AWG wire to connect directly to the switch was a challenge, Polar Wire has cable terminals for 4 AWG to a #10 hole, which worked great.

    The switch posts and copper traces on the back of it look WAY too small to handle the amperage so I added additional conductor to handle the load. Seemed to work fine, the switch didnt get hot when I wound the rode in. I'll monitor it, if it gets hot during real use I'm going to install an actual contactor DPDT selenoid so the switch doesnt have to handle the full amperage.
    2696 Sea Raider Pilothouse
    "Dominion"

  6. #6

    Default

    I've heard that windlasses can be a big draw on battery power.
    I don't think this will work out for you but I will be happy to take it off your hands to save you the trouble. Nice setup.

  7. #7
    Member ocnfish's Avatar
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    Default two thoughts ...

    Did you use wide area washers on both sides of the bolt to spread the load.

    If that is a Lewmar 700 like mine, I have two 27's and a 31 battery, mabey 1000 cranking amps and I still idle up to about 2000 rpm to lift my 22 lb plow type anchor. It is a dance between using the motor to move forward to the anchor and being in neutral at high rpm so that my 75 amp alternator can keep up with the demand from the windlass ....

  8. #8
    Member Maast's Avatar
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    Yeah, I used the big fender washers - I think the kit came with them.
    The 7" studs it comes with are way too long, on an aluminum boat the flat spot lands right where the nut needs to be so I had to flip them around, screw them in with red locktite and then I cut the studs down to about 2 1/2 inches.

    My house battery bank is 210 amp-hours in two HEAVY golf cart batteries which means I could draw 75 amps for about an hour before I would hit the 50% depth-of-discharge (assuming I started with a 80% battery bank).
    I'll be adding another two golf cart batteries as soon as I get around to it, can't have too much battery power.
    2696 Sea Raider Pilothouse
    "Dominion"

  9. #9
    Member ocnfish's Avatar
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    Default one last thought ...

    When I owned a Searaider 22, I noticed crosion forming on steel washers and nuts used on thge aluminum hull. Started using teflon (plastic) washers to keep crosion to a minimum. Got a glass boat now ... whole nother set of issues ... good luck

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maast View Post
    Did I make any obvious mistakes and screw it up?

    ?

    hi Maast. i guess you got it right, looks good!!.....300+ veiws and no real problems!!...thanks for all the details and all the forums reponses!!....i really like that rochna($$$), but not at this point!..will start with the bruce(?) for now and a spare(?).....what weight is the R anchor for your 26footer?.....will be picking your brain in the next 2-3 years to see how you like her!!.....thanks larry

  11. #11
    Member Maast's Avatar
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    Default

    The rocna is pretty nice, but you can get a very close copy. The Manson Supreme is almost identical except it has a slot for a slider for retrieving it.
    I almost bought a manson but the Rocna is supposed to last a lot longer.

    Its a 22lb anchor, which is supposed to be good up to a 36 foot boat (according to the website)
    2696 Sea Raider Pilothouse
    "Dominion"

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