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Thread: Flotation pod "sponsor" Advise

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    Question Flotation pod "sponsor" Advise

    This is my first post. In this video link you can see I am putting to much time and money into my 1975 River Runner.

    I am building float pods-dog return stairs this Saturday. I would appriciate any pointers like size? Is there a disadvantage to having them to big? Besides leaving enough room for your motor. Is it important to follow the lines of your transom? I see some that are just boxes bolted on. Is it better to make them almost seamless along the transom? Should they angel up and in? Or stay straight edge inline with the sides and bottom of the boat? I plan to weld them on and make them out of 5052 1/8 that I have already.

    I will probably make a hatch on top of each as I have seen on here. What is a good lid that will keep water out that you can weld on?

    Sorry for so many questions. Please watch the slide show and give me any feedback good or bad. Answer 1 or 2 questions r all of them. Io need as much advise as I can get. Thanks Rusty

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    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLGm1tRC134

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    Quote Originally Posted by 999crazy View Post
    This is my first post. In this video link you can see I am putting to much time and money into my 1975 River Runner.

    I am building float pods-dog return stairs this Saturday. I would appriciate any pointers like size? Is there a disadvantage to having them to big? Besides leaving enough room for your motor. Is it important to follow the lines of your transom? I see some that are just boxes bolted on. Is it better to make them almost seamless along the transom? Should they angel up and in? Or stay straight edge inline with the sides and bottom of the boat? I plan to weld them on and make them out of 5052 1/8 that I have already.

    I will probably make a hatch on top of each as I have seen on here. What is a good lid that will keep water out that you can weld on?

    Sorry for so many questions. Please watch the slide show and give me any feedback good or bad. Answer 1 or 2 questions r all of them. I need as much advise as I can get. Thanks Rusty

    Click direct or copy and paste in address bar
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLGm1tRC134
    The work on River runner looks pretty good, neat project.... What I learned from my research and has proved to be good info is this: They need to angle up from the bottom some, there was never any clear and concise answer here. It will depend on the hull design, it looks like yer RR has some deadrise, Is the deadrise consistent from front to back? (thru the planning surface). Mine was not, the DR increases and the boat is sensitive to "bow steering" so I was concerned about having the pods too flat and holding the bow down.

    I ended up angling them up right at 1 inch, they are 24" long on the bottom, w/o a setback (Lift) I dont think they need to be that long, 20" would probably be OK. If you start with a square corner at the outside, the sides will automatically taper in as you raise the bottom, this is a good thing. With a constant deadrise and a pod lenght of 20 inces you could probaly angle them up 3/4 of an inch.

    The bottom of my hull extended past the transom about a inch, and we started by installing the bottom piece on top of that and welding (Karold's did the welding and did a first rate job) from there, we used 3/16 for the bottom and 1/8 for the sides and 1/4 for the back, in case I ever want to mount a kicker or run into something backwards?

    The lids I bought are ok (barely), but the latches have failed and new/better are on the way.

    We made these 12" tall, and they are not tall enough w/a load in the boat, as they are submerged at that point (2500 pounds), so I may extend them up some 3-4 inches, they would be ok if sealed (cept for the drain hole), I wanted to be able to store something in them, I think they will make great food/beer coolers at the end of the day.

    I was looking at your tunnel and it seems quite narrow and the sides rather steep? Any reason for that particular design? You may need more clearance in the cutout in the top of the tunnel as the foot will travel forward beyond its location statically and on the trailer (thrust).

    We incorporated the sides of the tunnel into the bottom of the pods and that seems to work well, I have a lift so the tunnel sticks out another 5 inches or so.

    How heavy is your RR? Motor?, how wide is the hull?

    Anyway, the pods work great and probably the best addition to the boat yet. I hope this helps in some way, John
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
    TR

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    Thanks so so much!
    I have not run it yet I am so glad you said that about the foot clearence at the tunnel for thrust. I will fix that, How much room shuld I leave? The transom is pretty stout. I love the cooler idea!
    The motor is a 98 EFI Suzuki 140 2 stroke it weighs 383 lbs. The hull is about 500 lbs. I will get you the hull measurements tomarrow. It is 2 much motor for the boat I know. I got a good deal on it. I will get on step real fast and run at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle.
    I bought the tunnel pre made for the measurements of my boat by Svendsen Marine Works in Wrangell AK. Is steep and skinny bad? What will steep and skinny do to effect perfomance?
    Here is a video of a 92 Suzuki 140 carb 2 stroke I have that was on it. This was mounted about 2 inches to low and the boat did not have the tunnel.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHfSLmZsqks

    Your advise is so much more usefull to me then you could understand! I have know idea what i am doing. Thank You so much.

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    Also I should also mention I welded pieces on the tunnel to extend it back to wrap the intake of the pump. I did not talk to Svenson about that I just thought it would be better. I stayed with the same material and angles just extended it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 999crazy View Post
    Thanks so so much!
    I have not run it yet I am so glad you said that about the foot clearence at the tunnel for thrust. I will fix that, How much room shuld I leave? The transom is pretty stout. I love the cooler idea!
    The motor is a 98 EFI Suzuki 140 2 stroke it weighs 383 lbs. The hull is about 500 lbs. I will get you the hull measurements tomarrow. It is 2 much motor for the boat I know. I got a good deal on it. I will get on step real fast and run at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle.
    I bought the tunnel pre made for the measurements of my boat by Svendsen Marine Works in Wrangell AK. Is steep and skinny bad? What will steep and skinny do to effect perfomance?
    Here is a video of a 92 Suzuki 140 carb 2 stroke I have that was on it. This was mounted about 2 inches to low and the boat did not have the tunnel.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHfSLmZsqks

    Your advise is so much more usefull to me then you could understand! I have know idea what i am doing. Thank You so much.
    Your boat in the vid.? A 500 pound boat should fly. The work we did to my boat has worked for me but I am no expert at this stuff, however I beleive the info too be solid and should give you some ideas anyway.

    I had about 5/16 clearance and it still hit in a couple of spots, either side when you turn was the spot on mine, I trimmed another 1/8-3/16 off in those two spots. My transom is plenty beefy as well, lower the motor all the way and push on the jet unit, give it a hard shove like you mean it, you will most likely see some flex. It suprised me....!

    The tunnel? the big ugly monster with jets and particuarily so with tunnels is cavatation, try it and see how it works? it may be fine, and it may be just the angle the photos were taken at?
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
    TR

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    I would take a good look at the woldridge tunnels and copy them. From just looking at it I would trim the tunnel back from the motor some and then add a piece of UHMW plastic from the top of the tunnel so that it extends straight back so that when lowered the jet unit lip sits against it. This give you a durable flexible contact point and will keep the water moving in the right direction rather than spraying up in front of the motor. I know there are some pics floating around this site that show the wooly set up. Unfortunately I am about 8000 miles from my boat or I would snap a few for you.

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    Thanks. The way I set it up is real colse to a Woly I saw and took pictures of. I will try it out after I cut the space between the shoe and tunnel a little bigger and go from there. I have not run it with the tunnel and it is less work to wait untill the float pods are on. But I am going to take the time and run it with the tunnel only before the float pods are on to see how it goes and see if there is any cavitation. Thanks again Rusty

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    I don't know if its possible but if the pods can be moved closer to the middle (away from the sides) I think it would be better for tight, tight river runs. I have some pods on a 2060 SeaArk. I love em, worth every penny. The only thing I noticed is that they do add length to your boat, which is no big deal except when sliding in really tight turns. I have smacked them a couple of times on trees sticking out from the bank with only one bad outcome, I punctured it. Karolds fixed it right up. But if I could redo it I might have them closer to the middle instead of flush with the sides. I don't know if this would make a hill of beans of difference, so it is just food for thought.
    Henry Bowman for President

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    Quote Originally Posted by deerhunter View Post
    I don't know if its possible but if the pods can be moved closer to the middle (away from the sides) I think it would be better for tight, tight river runs. I have some pods on a 2060 SeaArk. I love em, worth every penny. The only thing I noticed is that they do add length to your boat, which is no big deal except when sliding in really tight turns. I have smacked them a couple of times on trees sticking out from the bank with only one bad outcome, I punctured it. Karolds fixed it right up. But if I could redo it I might have them closer to the middle instead of flush with the sides. I don't know if this would make a hill of beans of difference, so it is just food for thought.

    I will keep that in mind. Thanks for the input. Rusty

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