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Thread: Fireforming .300 Weatherby from .300 H&H

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    Member Darreld Walton's Avatar
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    Default Fireforming .300 Weatherby from .300 H&H

    New one for me. The oldest Son picked up a .300 Weatherby chambered controlled feed M70 stainless classic. THEN he checked prices of ammunition and components....got to looking around and I have on hand about 200 rounds of .300 H&H in WW brass unfired. I realize that the H&H is the parent for the Weatherby, but it's just ever so much slightly longer in finished form. Do I need to trim the H&H back to the Weatherby length before fireforming, or go ahead and form it, then trim...?

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    Default Fireforming

    DW,

    Trim the H&H to 2.820" and anneal at the case shoulder. Prime with a large pistol primer, add 12 grains of Bullseye pistol powder. * Place a 1/4th sheet of T.P. over the powder, fill the case with corn meal (cream-o-wheat, malt-o-meal, or such), and place a plug of soft wax or bullet lube over to seal it then fire it in the Weatherby chamber. If the case doesn't fill out all the way increase the powder charge by no more than 1 grain and try again.

    *The powder charge is ten percent of the full case of Bullseye (starting load)

    If the case isn't annealed it wont work very well. The best way to anneal is to mark the body of the case with temperature crayons, 650-660F, about a 1/8"-1/4" from the shoulder. Turn the case in a hand drill (A Lee case trimmer and shell holder can be chucked into a drill) as you heat with a torch applied at the midline of the shoulder, When the crayon changes color or melts, dunk the case into a bucket of cold water. You can also use a bore brush chucked into a drill and jam the case on that. Hold the bottom half of the case with a cold wet towell if using this method. Don't over heat the case body and head. I have a little battery powered drill that I use for primer pocket cleaning and that works very well.

    You can use the torch with the drill mounted stationery or mount the torch and hand hold the drill, I find the latter works best. I hold the drill and can put cases on and off quickly with a leather glove on the left hand and a drill in the right. With the brush method I hold the drill in the right and a wet towell over the case head in the gloved left hand then just pull the case off and dunk it. I have a small airline Acetalyne torch but a butane/propane hand torch works well. Welding supply houses have the temp crayons.

    The wax plug keeps the meal in place and allows the rifle to be fired horizontally.

    This seems like a lot of work but it really is a nice evening project and a rewarding to know you can do this stuff.

    The cases wont last worth a crap if you don't anneal and fireform like this and you will loose half of them if you just load and shoot with a bullet, plus that could also be dangerous if one of the cases splits during firing.

    If you have a large sturdy cardboard box, you can use it as a firing drum and do it in the garage or basement. (Please advise all occupants in the house of the noise!!) Make a hole for the barrel in the side and a few 2" holes for gas to escape in the top. (This will catch the meal and you can put it back in the sack before the wife gets home! :-)
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    Member Darreld Walton's Avatar
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    Default I'd forgotten that procedure!

    Mostly because it's the same one that I used when I got my first .35 Whelen. Only fly in the ointment was that I was living in Base Housing on Malmstrom AFB, and stuck the muzzle in a pillow in the bedroom that shared a common wall with the neighbors......I didn't know that the SP's could/would respond that FAST! It also put a 1 1/2 inch diameter hole through the subfloor, and took half of one tile up. The rest of them went out to the gulley behind the base! Good thing that the SP that responded was a shooting buddy and he owed me! "Kid got a firecracker...and a stern warning", if I remember how the report officially read. No mention that the boy was then 8 mos. old............

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Darreld Walton View Post
    New one for me. The oldest Son picked up a .300 Weatherby chambered controlled feed M70 stainless classic. THEN he checked prices of ammunition and components....got to looking around and I have on hand about 200 rounds of .300 H&H in WW brass unfired. I realize that the H&H is the parent for the Weatherby, but it's just ever so much slightly longer in finished form. Do I need to trim the H&H back to the Weatherby length before fireforming, or go ahead and form it, then trim...?
    As scarce as the 300 H&H brass is these days, you could probably sell it on Accurate Reloading, 24HrCampfire or NoslerReloading's website and make enough to buy the Weatherby brass with a little left over. The 300 H&H brass is really scarce right now, at least until Nosler ramps up production, and the H&H shooters are pretty hungry for it judging from their posts. I've got enough to last me until Nosler brings out their stuff, but if you don't want to go through the fireforming process, try selling it.

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    Member Darreld Walton's Avatar
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    Default Had no idea...

    Didn't occur to me that H&H would EVER get scarce, but then, neither did I think there'd be a shortage of .375 H&H WW brass or .38-55....
    I think I'll put it on the back shelf for a bit, never know when there'll be another .300 H&H in the rack. As a matter of fact, there's a decent 721 Remington I spotted yesterday, but they cut the barrel back to 24"...
    I'll make the boy foot the bill for his own Weatherby brass!

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    Default

    Nosler is supposed to making 300 H&H brass sometime this year... Right now, the only big time commercial maker is Winchester and they haven't made any in quite a while. I guess a lot of their brass manufacturing is turning out brass for the military, which is understandable.

    At any rate, the 300 H&H brass is very scarce right now. I'm sure supply will catch up with demand at some point in the future, but supply is very far behind at present.

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    Member alaska bush man's Avatar
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    http://store.brassmanbrass.com

    Great price on once fired 300 WBY brass
    Alaska

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    Member alaskabliss's Avatar
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    Default

    Maybe I'm confused or something but I have a 300H&H model 721 rechambered into the 300WBY and I have fire formed a couple boxes of 300H&H with no problems. Is that because it used to be a 300H&H or have I been very lucky? I load all 300WBY now but always thought that if in a pinch I could use 300H&H and fireform for more brass.

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    Showing myself to be the geezer I really am, back in the early 60's old Roy wanted an arm and two legs for his brass and ammo, if you could find it. It was really good stuff (reputedly Norma), but dang, mortgage your house to buy much of it. At the same time 300 H&H ammo and brass was laying under most bushes and especially on discount tables as the 300 Winnie grew in popularity.

    We used to fireform it to 300 Wby by the bucket load, whether factory rounds or brass topped with cast bullets. That says more about chamber specs and our particular rifles back then. Not knowing a thing about those today and how they compare, I'd be inclined to use Murphy's method. Corn meal would be my choice, mostly cuzz I prefer corn bread to mush.

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    Member L. G.'s Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Murphy View Post
    If the case isn't annealed it wont work very well.
    The OP said the brass was new, unfired. The necks and shoulder are annealed at the factory. No need to re-anneal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BrownBear View Post
    Showing myself to be the geezer I really am, back in the early 60's old Roy wanted an arm and two legs for his brass and ammo, if you could find it. It was really good stuff (reputedly Norma), but dang, mortgage your house to buy much of it. At the same time 300 H&H ammo and brass was laying under most bushes and especially on discount tables as the 300 Winnie grew in popularity.

    We used to fireform it to 300 Wby by the bucket load, whether factory rounds or brass topped with cast bullets. That says more about chamber specs and our particular rifles back then. Not knowing a thing about those today and how they compare, I'd be inclined to use Murphy's method. Corn meal would be my choice, mostly cuzz I prefer corn bread to mush.
    Fill'er up with a slow powder, a cast or cheapo bullet and pull the trigger. Instant formed cases. Works for me from .375 H&H to Weatherby.
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    Default

    good grief... who dug this old thread up. Looks like the op was back in 07. Interesting none the less
    “You’ve gotten soft. You’re like one of those police dogs who’s released in to the wild and gets eaten by a deer or something.” Bill McNeal of News Radio

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    Gosh it is old ain't it?

    Another trick(Nitroman) is to just fill the case with RL-22 or 4831, etc and just shoot that. If you can point it up that will work or plug the end with wax. This is quick and works when you have lots to form. The hard extruded powder pushes the shoulder out nicely. Only a small portion of the powder ignites and burns, the rest becomes the projectile(s).
    Is there nothing so sacred on this earth that you aren't willing to kill or die for?



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    Member BrentC's Avatar
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    Default

    Wow, this one was back there a ways. It's sometimes fun to see these old posts.

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