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Thread: Airtronic D4 install pictures

  1. #1
    Member Maast's Avatar
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    Default Airtronic D4 install pictures

    There was a request on another thread for pix, but there's so many pix I thought I'd put them in a seperate thread.

    Here's the install so far, these first two are of the overall install behind the seat on the gunwale shelf, those silver squares are the brackets for the bench seat back. You can also see a bit of the wrapped exhaust pipe.

    I wrapped the exhaust pipe in a crazy amount of header wrap over the insulating sock it came with, in places I'm almost an inch worth of insulation where I thought there might be a concern.

    The angled shot shows the outside combustion air intake, the actual pipe is inside the plastic bilge pump pipe for noise reduction. Also you can just see the standoff I had to fab for the mounting plate, the D4 was too big to fit in the gunwale shelf, so it's half out of it, but still clears the seat cushions and seat back.
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    Second two shots are the exhaust pipe coming up through the gunwale shelf and to the through hull. The little grey thing at the top is an example of the original exhaust pipe width.

    It looks a lot better since I sprayed it with the high-temp silicone coating, it made the outside like a rubbery hose and has glued the wrap into one piece - wont have to worry about the wrap coming undone
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    Shows the exhaust pipe coming out of the D4 and over to where it goes up through the gunwale shelf. This is inside the seat box at the back under the gunwale shelf.

    The copper coil is the condensation drain, its at the lowest point of the exhaust pipe run (even though it might not look that way) to allow condensation and any sea water to drain.

    The big lump in the middle is the muffler, it got pretty close to the hull so I removed the carpet, I'll glue more of the 2 inch header wrap there using high temp silicone as the glue.

    Second shot is the hot air duct going down through the gunwale shelf. I used wire loom & 3M 5200 cover the edges of the sharp aluminum to keep vibration from cutting through the ducting.
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    The ducting going forwards under the gunwale to a "T", one branch goes up to a wye that splits out the defroster vents.

    The T is under the shelf and as far over as I could get it given turn radius constraints, I wanted to keep the duct out of the way as much as I could. I had to squish the 90mm duct down to the 80mm wye using the hose clamp, I had bought a 90/80mm adapter but it didnt fit. It looks kinda cheesy up close.

    The other branch goes to the side vent near the cuddy by the floor, I can direct the air into the cuddy or out along the floor.

    I used super heavy duty zip ties and drilled two holes per securing point to secure the ducting the the shelf and bulkheads.
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    And finally an overall shot of the defroster vents and the cuddy/floor vent.

    So far I've used red threadlocker on every bolt, nut and screw to make sure boat vibration doesnt vibrate something loose. Every exhaust joint has rutland high temp sealant in it.

    The air intake and outside/inside air mixer was removed because I was getting ready to spray the header wrap with the silicone coating. I'll post a picture of it later.

    I havent installed the fuel lines yet because I havent had the time to fab the diesel tank. Speaking of which - I'd recommend taping off the fuel intake port, I kept getting crud on it from my hands brushing the port.

    To bolt the D4 down to the install plate I had to get on my back in the seat box with my legs dangling out of it and close the lid as far as it'd go - it was the only way I could put the nuts on the D4's bolts - it sucked.

    PS: The silver wrapped pipe in the undershelf exhaust run shot is the combustion air pipe, its also wrapped in header wrap but I covered it in "Cool-It" heat reflective tape. Got the header wrap and tape from Schucks auto parts.
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    Thanks for the pictures. It looks great! When will you fire it up?
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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    Default My D2 plan

    I just bought a D2 I plan to install soon. I am planning on mounting the heater on the shelf under the wheel (see pic) and split the ducting to run up to the windshield and down towards the floor. A 1 gallon diesel tank will mount on the driver side of the bow and the exhaust will run up and out the side beneath the side windshield on the drivers side.
    My main concern is if the heater will take too much of a beating mounted up front in choppy waters. Like crossing Lake Louise in the fall.
    Any thoughts?
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    Well, they're supposed to be able to take it - but I mounted mine as far back as I could get it (given my only 5 foot section of ducting) just for the potential pounding.

    I'd have mounted it on the aft bulkhead if I could have. I just didnt have a longer piece of ducting, and couldnt find any locally that wasnt the standard aluminum flexiduct - which would have robbed the warm air of a lot of warmth by the time it got to the vents, and I didnt want to wrap insulation around that too.

    I got all the parts and pieces from http://www.suremarine.com/, its the only online place I could find on the west coast. The parts are actually branded Webasto - but the heater doesnt know that

    Hopefully I'll fire it up by sunday for a test run, I've got to go down to PDX for the next 3 days though, so that, and the sportsmans show, might delay things a bit.
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  9. #9

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    So does the heater its self stay fairly cool and the only thing you have to worry about is the heat from the exhaust pipe?

  10. #10
    Member Maast's Avatar
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    According to the instructions it came with the heater should stay cool enough to touch, unless its in a overheat situation, then it'll shut down.

    I dont personally know, havent fired it up yet. Hopefully when I do I wont have to do any more insulation.

    Tired of getting covered in fiberglass bits.
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  11. #11
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    Nice job thanks for posting the pictures.

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