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Thread: 1996 Ski-Doos

  1. #1
    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    Default 1996 Ski-Doos

    I am going to look at a couple 1996 machines tomorrow - I don't know much about these, or snomachines in general....

    What little I know:

    1996 670 "no miles"

    1996 grand touring "no miles"

    1996 trailer with plastic/fiberglass hinged full cover

    She said that they have not been started in 8 years and that they rode them for 2 years and then never rode them again.

    I don't know what models they are for sure - but they are asking a reasonable price of around 3K for them.

    Are these good old sleds - did they have known issues?

    I plan to drain the gas out if any, run a compression test after shooting some WD-40 in the jugs and then see if they will run.

    Good deal? Bad deal? Run?

  2. #2
    Member mod elan's Avatar
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    Good idea to take carbs off and soak/clean them. The gas is real good nowadays as far as being able to be stored for long periods, but 8 years is a long time and chances are they were not prepped to be stored that long.

    The old 670 is a bulletproof motor. Interested to find out what the GT has. The body style of the GT depends on what motor it has. Another thing to look at is where and how they are stored. 8 years out in the elements and the motors could be rusted inside. A little condensation build up each year and you'll end up with crap for motors.

    Get the first four numbers off the VIN for each sled.

  3. #3
    Member Dirtofak's Avatar
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    Default

    8 years is a long time. Rubber parts become brittle, fuel evaporates and leaves residue, condensation, corrosion etc...

    I would look hard at the carb boots, belt, all hoses, fuel pump diaphram, seat cover, track, battery (if equipped), compression and do a vacuum test on the crankshaft seals.

    If the trailer has not been used, it could need bearings, seals, tires etc.....

    It may or may not be a good deal depending your ability to do the repairs yourself and what you have to pay.

  4. #4
    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    Default yup

    They were covered. I purchased them. The GT is running fine, the summit not so good. The rings were froze and when I hand turned it I broke a ring on the right hand side. Going through the motor now.

    the "no miles' turned out to be 742 for the GT and 802 for the summit....Trailer made it home but I need to pack the bearings and fix up lights.

    overall okay deal but I wish the 670 was running....

  5. #5
    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    Default not so good = bad

    got the motor out last night and pulled the bad jug and the rotary valve cover...the cover got bent up by some broken ring parts and then scored the cover and case pretty bad....I don't know whether it is salvageable - the rotary valve looks like it must seat pretty good on the case and cover or it might suck air - I am not sure how this works, or whether it can be milled down flat again - is so then the shaft might not be of the correct lenght so a thinker seal inside and gasket outside may have to be used or it might be useless.

    There is a lot of debris in the crank from the piston and the ring that broke.

    Going to be lots more $$ than I had hoped.

  6. #6
    Member mod elan's Avatar
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    How about some pictures of the intake damage. Do you mean the valve got bent up and scored the cover and case? While you're there split the case and clean everything. Both surfaces of the valve housing can usually be smoothed up and used again. If the valve got jammed and jumped a tooth on the crank or stripped the gear and/or you split the case you will need to re-time the valve.

  7. #7
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    re-timing it is really easy once you get the motor back together, but as previously recommended, I would split the case as well... a new seal and gasket set will assure you that the engine is in good shape.

  8. #8
    Member Bullelkklr's Avatar
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    I ended up shipping it to my brothers friend in Wyoming and he rebuilt a different motor and finally sent it back. I started to put it in before I left for the haul road bou hunt on the 20th of Aug - but I didn't have the correct puller to separate the crank from the clutch - have it now and will put it in next week. Mostly am worried about making sure that it is getting oil and no air in the cooling system.

    I busted the carbs apart and they are spic and span. All of the rubber lines appear to be in good shape....but boy there are a lot of them for sure. I might put some extra line in my tool kit just in case.

    How do you go about starting it when it is this warm outside and no snow? I guess that I will do like I did with my harley and just run it first for a couple minutes then a full cool down, then a restart for 5 minutes etc.

    I did put a couple ounces of oil in the full fuel tank to give it a little bit extra for the initial tank.

    The touring bike sure ran good last spring - it is a 500...much faster than the fan ski-doos I have ridden...was very happy with it - if the 670 runs good I am sure that it will be exciting!

  9. #9
    Member AKDoug's Avatar
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    You can run that sucker for quite a while with no issues at even summer temps. I used to drag race my 670X on grass and in mud with no auxilary cooling. No problem idling for 5 minutes with an 1/8 mile full pull, then riding back to the pits.
    Bunny Boots and Bearcats: Utility Sled Mayhem

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