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Thread: Articulated Flies

  1. #1
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    Default Articulated Flies

    When it comes to material and the back hook, what do you do? super glue only? Tie it down with thread? Or maybe a combo of both? What are some reasons and explanation for doing any of the options?

    Thanks!

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    Member 900fusion's Avatar
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    i wrap with thread then cement, super glue hardens to much which could result in breaking the material off.
    -Tight Lines & head shakin

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    Quote Originally Posted by 900fusion View Post
    i wrap with thread then cement, super glue hardens to much which could result in breaking the material off.
    This and wrap through the eye of the hook works very well
    Fish when you can, work when you have to.

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    Member LItoAK's Avatar
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    TMC 811s #2 connected to 30# fireline connected to #4 Gamakatsu octopus hook. I wrap the fire line on the top Of the TMC hook and then put it through the eye and pull it back towards the hook point and wrap all the way down covering the hook with as much thread as possible. It's probubly over kill but I have this vision of a huge bow ripping the fireline off the front hook because I didn't wrap enough thread around it. I also put head cement on the wraps. It could be early signs of OCD but I think it will hold.

    I also use 20# fireline and 20# and 30# backing. The backing and 20# fireline are more flexable and work well for articulated flesh patterns. I love articulated flies.

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    TMC 811s for a the front hook? Those things are like $.75 a piece!
    Mustad 34007 may not be as sharp as Tiemcos, but you are breaking off the front point anyway, so you really dont need an expensive ultra-sharp hook.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ak char View Post
    TMC 811s for a the front hook? Those things are like $.75 a piece!
    Mustad 34007 may not be as sharp as Tiemcos, but you are breaking off the front point anyway, so you really dont need an expensive ultra-sharp hook.
    I agree, I use Mustad 92671 hooks they are $6 for a 100 of them!
    Fish when you can, work when you have to.

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    I have used thread and superglue and have never had it fail there. I think the weakest points are the eye of the trailer hook and the cut/broken end from hook.

    The eye of the trailer hook causes frays where the metal come together and it wears on the braid. This can be fixed by wrapping a small head of thread to cover the gap.

    The other bad spot is where you cut the front hook off, again this sharp spot can fray and weaken the braid causing a break when you have a nice fish. I try to buff this with a dremel tip grinding stone with concave top and a quick buff takes this point out of play.

    I have been tying and fishing articulates for many years and on big Bristol Bay trout and have never had them pull apart, only break from the areas discribed. I lay down a good base of thread on the front hook, lay the braid on top with the thread at the bend of the hook. With the thread I wrap the two strands of braids with many wraps on top of the shank up to the barbell eyes then fold the braid back and wrap good back to the bend. Attach materials at the bend then lay a bead of super glue along the shank then wrap and finish the fly.

    Note on super glue, it will chemically change rabbit and it will get brittle. I have not had problems with the rabbit strip I palmer up the shank only with the loose section at the tail. I try not to get too much glue so it soaks the tail. You can see some smoke drift up when super glue and rabbit come together.

    Hope this helps.

    George

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    Default Monster

    My first articulated monsters!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ES articulated.jpg   Articlulated Leech.jpg  

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    Premium Member Wyo2AK's Avatar
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    If we're talking strung out/MOAL style, I just superglue the rabbit to the back hook, wind the strip forward, and superglue to the front hook. I know superglue isn't as flexible as some other cements or tearmender, but I found the gluing the rabbit to the line the whole way is unnecessary, so it doesn't make a big difference. The flies seem to fish fine.

    If I feel like investing some additional time, sometimes I use the dubbing loop technique cutting away the rabbit hide - makes for a much more flexible fly and an easier fly to cast, but definitely a little more front end work. I learned about it here (good photos - scroll down).
    http://www.west-fly-fishing.com/foru...=188390&page=2

    I use 20, 30, or 50 pound spiderwire or backing in green, white, or orange. I change it up depending on the color I want and the stiffness I want.

    For other flies of like dolly llamas, sculpzillas, etc., I just stick a loop out the back of the front hook, wrap over the two tag ends up to the eye, through the eye, and wrap back. Then I usually cement all the thread wraps. Overkill maybe, but I use a lot of articulated for salmon as well, and I just don't like the idea of anything failing. If you're going to do it, do it well. I make a bunch of articulated set ups in a batch, and then tie as I choose. Anyway, then I just slip the loop through my trailer hook. I like being able to change out the hook to change sizes if needed, or to replace the hook if it gets dull. I can also add beads above the hook if I want. Using a loop of 30lb or 50lb makes it stiff enough to hold the hook out the back. If the rabbit strip is fouling, I just poke the hook twice through the rabbit strip to hold it in place.

    Use cheap hooks for the front hook. I use cheap Mustads that I don't even know the model number for, but they were like $4 per 100. I also use some cheep o'shaughnessy hooks for larger articulates.

    I agree with George that the hook wearing through the line tends to be the biggest problem. I buff all my cut hooks to minimize wear there. I've never thought to add thread to the rear hook behind the eye, but it's a great idea. That's the only way I've had one fail (getting cut on the rear eye).
    Pursue happiness with diligence.

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    Premium Member Wyo2AK's Avatar
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    Nice tie bowdy!
    Pursue happiness with diligence.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ak char View Post
    TMC 811s for a the front hook? Those things are like $.75 a piece!
    Mustad 34007 may not be as sharp as Tiemcos, but you are breaking off the front point anyway, so you really dont need an expensive ultra-sharp hook.
    Your right I never looked at it that way. I think it averages out to $0.55 a hook, but they are nice because they have a big hook eye and wide shaft. Looks like im going to have to switch hooks.

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    Member Scottsum's Avatar
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    Default Here's a different method.

    I tie mine a bit differently, I just like wrapping the rear hook with a some fur to hide it. Ive never had one of these fail, even on a couple of heavy silvers that took a fancy to it. I don't use any super glue, just tie into the rear hook with some 30# dacron, run it up the front hook, through the eye and back down the shank. Wrap the thread and hook shank like normal, and tie away on both hooks. I also like to tie-up a few hook combos ahead of time and then tie the flies as needed.

    Here's a link to an old thread with a couple of pics of my dolly lamas:

    http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/...ight=dali+lama

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