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Thread: Espar D4 install ideas

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    Default Espar D4 install ideas

    I was wondering if anyone would post some pictures of there instalation of an Espar heater? I am going to install one this next week in a pilot house aluminum boat. Thanks for any help or ideas.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jakim View Post
    I was wondering if anyone would post some pictures of there instalation of an Espar heater? I am going to install one this next week in a pilot house aluminum boat. Thanks for any help or ideas.
    I cannot access photobucket from my work computer so I will post a link to the build thread of my boat. Scroll down and you can see a couple pics of how my Espar is mounted. Click here.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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    Member Maast's Avatar
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    Default Lessons learned doing a Espar D4 install

    Heh, timely question, I was just thinking of posting a "lessons learned" from my ongoing install.
    Unfortunately I dont have any pictures, didnt think about it ahead of time but here area few (painful) lessons learned from the D4 i've been installing this last week:

    1. Plan how you're going to route the exhaust BEFORE you make the first cut. The instructions say you need a 2 inch clearance to anything "heat sensitive". This was a PITA for me as I mounted it towards the rear of the boat cabin on the gunwale shelf blowing hot air towards the front. This meant that the exhaust and fresh combustion air lines had to cross.

    2. I didnt trust the insulation sock it came with because my clearances are less than 2 inches, so I went to High Performance Automotive and got a product called "Header Wrap", it looks like a mans cloth belt. Its a woven fiberglass insulation thats 1/8th inch thick and comes in 1 or 2 inch wide rolls up to 50 feet long, get the 50 foot, you'll use it. You'll need the stainless ties for it too.

    3. Forget the high temp caulking you get from automotive stores, its only good for 750 intermittant, go to the wood stove or furnace area of your local hardware store and get the Rutland 800 degree continuous black silicone caulk. Its good stuff, and indestructible.

    4. 3 inch ABS pipe fits on the air intake side with a couple slits in it and a pipe clamp, its smooth walled and gives a better airflow.

    5. Give yourself 5 inches above the unit to allow yourself room to open up the box, you'll need to clean the burner screen now and then.

    Make sure you dont oversize the heater for the space being heated like I did. When working on the boat at 25 degree temps outside I had a little electric heater going and I was nice and toasty in the cabin. That little heater was only putting out 2650 BTUs.

    The D4 has a max output of 13650 BTUs on boost and 3500 BTUs on its lowest setting. It'll need more heat when on the water and moving along, but I'll never need its full output. I made a guess based on the Espar sizing recommendations, turns out the cabin is insulated better than I thought it'd be.

    This means my heater will be short cycling and I might see it soot up faster than it should. I could have saved a good bit by getting the D2.

    I'm not done with my install yet, I have to fab and install the diesel tank and fuel lines, and run the hot air ducting..
    If you want you can come by and I'll show you what I've run into so far, for me its mainly that I've got the exhaust, combustion, and fresh air lines all in the same place.
    2696 Sea Raider Pilothouse
    "Dominion"

  4. #4

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    This may be a corrected problem with Espar. I had a lot of trouble with an Espar several years ago. The system used so much electricity that it depleted my batteries overnight. The trouble became expensive when the "controller" burned up something inside due to low voltage and I had to replace the whole unit. It was very expensive and the dealer told me it was common. Moral of the story was to be sure to have adequate batteries if anchoring up for the night without a power source.

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    Quote Originally Posted by windypoint View Post
    This may be a corrected problem with Espar. I had a lot of trouble with an Espar several years ago. The system used so much electricity that it depleted my batteries overnight. The trouble became expensive when the "controller" burned up something inside due to low voltage and I had to replace the whole unit. It was very expensive and the dealer told me it was common. Moral of the story was to be sure to have adequate batteries if anchoring up for the night without a power source.

    They must have solved the problem. Mine uses very little power. According to the Espar website, they use from 0.6 amps up to 3.3 amps with the thermostat cranked to high. They do draw a bit more when you start them up, but not for very long. What type of a house bank were you running?
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

  6. #6

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    Jakim I installed a d-4 early this winter and I couldn't be happier. In my case the install was difficult mostly because of the limited space I had to work in. At this point it was worth the effort. I will PM you some pictures of the install tomorrow.

    I have a 28 ft. Kingfisher and the d4 seems to be a perfect match.
    Certainly makes winter fishing alot more enjoyable.

  7. #7

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    whatablast, pictures would be great. The boat I am putting it in is a 26' Kingfisher and one of the hardest things is I don't know where to put it. I want to make sure the windows stay clear. Does it need to be dirrected at the windows for this to happen or is it better to have the heat blowing in the cab and install fans by the windows.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jakim View Post
    whatablast, pictures would be great. The boat I am putting it in is a 26' Kingfisher and one of the hardest things is I don't know where to put it. I want to make sure the windows stay clear. Does it need to be dirrected at the windows for this to happen or is it better to have the heat blowing in the cab and install fans by the windows.
    If I recall correctly the D4 can handle three to four ducts, so you could theoretically run ducting ports to your windshield. I have one duct to the berth and one duct to the port side front bench seat. I have a couple of fans to circulate air. This seems to do a pretty good job clearing the windows, but dedicated ducts to the windshield would be better I believe.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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    Pete those build pics of your boat are great. I found your whole build on the Alloy forum last night and looked a the whole thing. It was like 10 pages long
    Boatless

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    Quote Originally Posted by FISHFACE View Post
    Pete those build pics of your boat are great. I found your whole build on the Alloy forum last night and looked a the whole thing. It was like 10 pages long

    Thanks Brad. Glad the process is over.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

  11. #11

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    Jakim I sent you a PM.

  12. #12

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    whatablast PM sent

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