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Thread: Muzzle break for a .378 Weatherby

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    Default Muzzle break for a .378 Weatherby

    I picked up a MK V .378 Weatherby at the gun show at a price too good to refuse. I hate it when that happens.

    This one is an early jap gun with no real collectors value like my early German one so I'm thinking about puttin a brake in it so I can shoot it. I see all the factory guns now come standard with a muzzle brake- I don't know why they took so long!

    Any thoughts on what brake to use? I guess I could sent it back to Weatherby but they would probably want a small fortune. I'm not sure if magnaporting would help that much but that was another idea.

    I'll also need a scope for it - certainly one with a long eye relief and something that will stand a pounding. I'm think one of the heavy 30mm tube scopes as bulk and weight aren't an issue with this beast.

    Any thoughts or ideas esp. from someone that hunts with one of these?
    Living the urban lifestyle so I can pay my way and for my family's needs, and support my country. And you?
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    Member marshall's Avatar
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    I put a Vais muzzle brake on my 375, It really tamed it down. I honestly believe it has less recoil than a 30-06. Accuracy was unaffected and quite possibly improved. I also believe that this type of brake is quiter than other designs.

    http://www.muzzlebrakes.com/

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    Default How much?

    How much are you going to shoot it? Have you tried it without it? I'd put the money into better optics and bullets.

    Heck, a guy can quick fire the mild recoil 375 H&H without much pain or flinching, that gun shouldn't be much different.

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    Premium Member MarineHawk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir View Post
    Heck, a guy can quick fire the mild recoil 375 H&H without much pain or flinching, that gun shouldn't be much different.
    The recoil energy of a typical unbraked 378 Wby is almost twice that of a 375 H&H. http://www.weatherby.com/product/accubrake

    Big bore high velocity is nice, but it comes at at a cost.

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    Quite a few years ago, a good friend went into the Weatherby shop in Calif. and told the guy there (apparently it was the son) that he wanted to buy a 378 Weatherby. The guys response was "no you don't" followed by "Are you going to hunt in Africa?" Friend says no and Weatherby jr then proceeded to explain why my friend really didn't want one. Basically it kicks like crazy, ammo is really expensive and it's really loud. And that was before putting on a brake. Any way Weatherby jr talks him out of buying one. I've shot the 375 Weatherby and it's bad enough but when two boxes of ammo costs as much as a normal rifle it's time for me to look at something else. I hope I never get Magnumitis that bad. Any way the brake should tame it to the point that you can shoot it but use ear plugs and earmuffs and warn anybody else at the range that they too will need double ear protection.

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    Default Hurts

    I've got a similar one - perhaps a bit lighter- and I don't think it is safe to shoot. After a few rounds you start to feel puch drunk - like you have been clobbered in the head with a few blows. The gun also requires a scope with significant eye relief to keep it from poking you in the eye.

    In comparison I'll put quite a few rounds through my .375 H&H with no problems. A friend that plinks with a .500 Nitro sold his .378 because he had the same problem I have- the gun is that bad. Weatherby finally got the word - all the .378s and .460s now come from the factory with a brake.

    The .378 Weatherby has a bad reputation - it is well deserved. It is that bad without a brake.

    If I can make the recoil manageable I'd like to use it as a long range gun for elk or moose. The .378 is normally very accurate and has plenty of power for long range hunting of large game.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sir View Post
    How much are you going to shoot it? Have you tried it without it? I'd put the money into better optics and bullets.

    Heck, a guy can quick fire the mild recoil 375 H&H without much pain or flinching, that gun shouldn't be much different.
    Living the urban lifestyle so I can pay my way and for my family's needs, and support my country. And you?
    ".. ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country" JFK

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    Premium Member MarineHawk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbuck351 View Post
    Quite a few years ago, a good friend went into the Weatherby shop in Calif. and told the guy there (apparently it was the son) that he wanted to buy a 378 Weatherby. The guys response was "no you don't" followed by "Are you going to hunt in Africa?" Friend says no and Weatherby jr then proceeded to explain why my friend really didn't want one. Basically it kicks like crazy, ammo is really expensive and it's really loud. And that was before putting on a brake. Any way Weatherby jr talks him out of buying one. I've shot the 375 Weatherby and it's bad enough but when two boxes of ammo costs as much as a normal rifle it's time for me to look at something else. I hope I never get Magnumitis that bad. Any way the brake should tame it to the point that you can shoot it but use ear plugs and earmuffs and warn anybody else at the range that they too will need double ear protection.
    Magnumitis is kind of cool though. It's like buying a Vette or Ferrari when a Ford Taurus will do. Though not necessary, sometimes it's fun to do the extraordinary.

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    Default Very interesting...

    I've never been a big fan of Weatherbys but I've had four of them - a .270 they built on the FN action, 2- .378s, and a .300 I never shot.

    I got all of them because the deal was too simply good to pass up. I would never dream of buying one at retail prices.

    The .378 is an experience - make you appreciate the recoil of lesser rifles. Indeed, i think it puts things in perspective and make other guns appear to have very bearable recoil. I learned this years ago when I bought my first .44 mag - my .357 stopped kicking and was never was an issue again. Now I've got a .500 S&W and the .44 stopped kicking - amazing how that works.

    I bought a new Corvette in '69 after I had just graduated from college and had bought my first car just 9 months earlier. The Corvette was still a cool and admired car back then - probably even more so than a Ferrari is today. It was a real hoot and I drove it for 3 years before I settled down. Like magnumtitis you gotta let go sometimes. I've never regretted it for a moment.

    Quote Originally Posted by MarineHawk View Post
    Magnumitis is kind of cool though. It's like buying a Vette or Ferrari when a Ford Taurus will do. Though not necessary, sometimes it's fun to do the extraordinary.
    Living the urban lifestyle so I can pay my way and for my family's needs, and support my country. And you?
    ".. ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country" JFK

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    Default No Brakes

    Why put more money into it?

    Ammo is very expensive, so you would wanna handload for it, anyway.

    Load it down, to 375 H&H velocities. That's plenty power, and you'll be fine with it.

    OR, load it with Cast Bullets and go Deer Hunting.

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    Why load down a 378 to 375 ballistics, he said he got a good deal on it, I'm sure if he wanted a 375 he would sell the 378 and get one. I don't load down my 458WM, thats why I have a 45-70. The 458 is for crushing bones not plinking.

    I don't think there is a thing in the world wrong with a braked rifle, I wear hearing protection when I shoot anyways. As far as the whole " if you can't handle it without the brake you need a smaller gun" arguement goes I say BS. Why shoot something with a less potent gun when you can smash it with a bigger gun that recoils the same or less.

    I dont own a single rifle with a brake on it, but I don't put down those who do, and you can bet your sweet petunias that if I had a 378 it would have a brake.

    So Tvfinak just drop your 378 by the shop and we'll tame her down for ya. Cost you about what 2 boxes of factory ammo to feed it would, and cut the recoil way down.

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    If you feel recoil in a hunting situation you need a new hobby. As far as load development/ sighting in, put a 25 lbs shot bag between your shoulder and the butt.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Kid View Post
    Why load down a 378 to 375 ballistics, he said he got a good deal on it, I'm sure if he wanted a 375 he would sell the 378 and get one. I don't load down my 458WM, thats why I have a 45-70. The 458 is for crushing bones not plinking.

    I don't think there is a thing in the world wrong with a braked rifle, I wear hearing protection when I shoot anyways. As far as the whole " if you can't handle it without the brake you need a smaller gun" arguement goes I say BS. Why shoot something with a less potent gun when you can smash it with a bigger gun that recoils the same or less.

    I dont own a single rifle with a brake on it, but I don't put down those who do, and you can bet your sweet petunias that if I had a 378 it would have a brake.

    So Tvfinak just drop your 378 by the shop and we'll tame her down for ya. Cost you about what 2 boxes of factory ammo to feed it would, and cut the recoil way down.
    Well, if you gotta put on a brake to shoot it, there are other work-arounds to make it practical too. Things that are cheaper, less offensive to others, and more fun.

    I suppose he could have the gun rechambered to 375 H&H or something else. If one appreciates a Mk V like tvfinak does, just any 375 wouldn't do.

    Maybe, some people want the most "potent" gun possible, and don't want to lose any of the potential "smash" they have at their disposal. I wasn't looking at it that way. I tend to think of ways to make something I like, useful. I've been loading down, my 338 WM. Lighter bullets, and minimum velocities can reduce the recoil enough to notice.

    Smitty of the North
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    Anybody know what ammo for the 378 does cost? I can see driving around in a corvette or even a ferarri but the 378 compares more to a AAfueler as in it's just too much for most situations. Maybe I'm just a wuss but the 378 is above red line on my fun meter. For you really tough guys, I believe there is an encore pistol in 460 Weatherby floating around. Oh yeah, and the 577 tyranasauras should make a nice varmit gun. You won't feel the recoil while shooting at ground squirrels.

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    Default Factory ammo

    Midway shows factory ammo at around $120 a box. I would never buy a box of the factory stuff as I have 5 or 6 boxes of brass I picked up at a bargain also.

    I may not ever hunt dangerous game with gun as I don't trust push feeds in general and don't particually like Weatherby Mk Vs. I will consider it as a long range rifle for non-dangerous game like elk if it proves out to be accurate and I can bear to shoot it enough to really become familiar and comfortable with it for a long range shot.

    My next step will be to contact Weatherby and see what they want to install their brake on it. A Weatherby brake will be the first consideration as it will most likely have the minimum effect on value when I go to sell it someday. I'll post what I find out from the guys in CA.


    Quote Originally Posted by rbuck351 View Post
    Anybody know what ammo for the 378 does cost? I can see driving around in a corvette or even a ferarri but the 378 compares more to a AAfueler as in it's just too much for most situations. Maybe I'm just a wuss but the 378 is above red line on my fun meter. For you really tough guys, I believe there is an encore pistol in 460 Weatherby floating around. Oh yeah, and the 577 tyranasauras should make a nice varmit gun. You won't feel the recoil while shooting at ground squirrels.
    Living the urban lifestyle so I can pay my way and for my family's needs, and support my country. And you?
    ".. ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country" JFK

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    Quote Originally Posted by tvfinak View Post
    My next step will be to contact Weatherby and see what they want to install their brake on it.
    Starting at $168.00: http://www.weatherby.com/product/accubrake

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    Our brake is the quietest and most effective in that caliber. $250

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    Default Muzzle brakes

    Just curious- has anyone ever ran and published an objective test on muzzle brakes? It would be curious to see just how effective the various popular designs are at reducing recoil and muzzle rise as well as the peak noise levels in the radius around the muzzle.

    The whole concept of a brake is a little strange as the gun is already in recoil before the bullet reaches even the muzzle - the action part that produces the reaction or kick. The brake then has to force the muzzel down and the gun forward by the jet action of the hot gases leaving the brake. The gases leaving the brake also prevent the gases from producing a rocket type thrust as the gases leave the muzzle. Somebody should have done the math on this numerous times already.


    Quote Originally Posted by Wildalaska View Post
    Our brake is the quietest and most effective in that caliber. $250
    Living the urban lifestyle so I can pay my way and for my family's needs, and support my country. And you?
    ".. ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country" JFK

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    Quote Originally Posted by MarineHawk View Post
    The recoil energy of a typical unbraked 378 Wby is almost twice that of a 375 H&H. http://www.weatherby.com/product/accubrake

    Big bore high velocity is nice, but it comes at at a cost.
    MarineHawk, is that ever and understatement when it comes to the 378Wby. To me the felt recoil of a 378Wby with out a brake is worse than a 460Wby, at least that is how it effected me. I will say this - the day I pulled the trigger on a 378Wby that had no brake, I wondered if an animal that is shot with the 378Wby could hurt any more than I did and I can handle some recoil. It could have been because I was at the bench and might have leaned a little to much into the rifle but it did get my attention.
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    Quote Originally Posted by tvfinak View Post
    Just curious- has anyone ever ran and published an objective test on muzzle brakes? It would be curious to see just how effective the various popular designs are at reducing recoil and muzzle rise as well as the peak noise levels in the radius around the muzzle.

    The whole concept of a brake is a little strange as the gun is already in recoil before the bullet reaches even the muzzle - the action part that produces the reaction or kick. The brake then has to force the muzzel down and the gun forward by the jet action of the hot gases leaving the brake. The gases leaving the brake also prevent the gases from producing a rocket type thrust as the gases leave the muzzle. Somebody should have done the math on this numerous times already.
    I'm not saying whether or not muzzle brakes are worth the extra noise (which is subjective), but they objectively reduce the recoil impulse of the rifle. With most high-power rifles, the momentum of the gas exiting the barrel is about equal to that of the bullet. When the gas is directed sideways or slightly backward, you cut the momentum of the exiting matter in half (or better if it is directed slightly rearward). The recoil impulse is not instantaneous. At 3,000 fps, a bullet takes 1/1,500th of a second to clear a 24-inch barrel. It's the subsequent discharge of all that matter that causes the vast majority of felt recoil. It's like a rocket spewing exploded fuel in one direction. If you direct half of it sideways or slightly rearward from the end of the barrel, it has to have a huge effect. Just like you would tremendously undercut the thrust of a rocket if you directed half of the discharged matter sideways.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Smitty of the North View Post
    Well, if you gotta put on a brake to shoot it, there are other work-arounds to make it practical too. Things that are cheaper, less offensive to others, and more fun.

    I suppose he could have the gun rechambered to 375 H&H or something else. If one appreciates a Mk V like tvfinak does, just any 375 wouldn't do.

    Maybe, some people want the most "potent" gun possible, and don't want to lose any of the potential "smash" they have at their disposal. I wasn't looking at it that way. I tend to think of ways to make something I like, useful. I've been loading down, my 338 WM. Lighter bullets, and minimum velocities can reduce the recoil enough to notice.

    Smitty of the North
    Sorry about that tirade Smitty, I wasn't meaning to direct it so much at your post, as I generally agree with just about everything you have to add. It just seems that everytime anybody says the words "muzzle brake", the whole anti brake crowd jumps in telling horror stories and telling the fella to "man up" or get a smaller gun.

    As I already stated,I don't even own a braked rifle, but I do think they have a place. I have a cousin who is in his late 40's and he could never handle a rifle over about 243 caliber, well that makes it awfull hard to legally hunt elk in some states, so I built him a 30-06 with a brake and a good pad, and viiola, he loves to shoot it therefore he is an excellent shot with that rifle, because he can stand the recoil enough to practice. heck he even busted a nice 5x5 bull this year in CO with his braked rifle.

    As far as brakes on the range, well I usually use plugs in conjunction with muffs, and they dont bother me. Alot of people at the range probably don't care for my short tubed rifles, but I find that they handle better for me, therfore I am more effective in the field when using them. When I go to the range I usually try to sit at the far end anyway so people don't step on my brass when it falls to the ground or worse yet have some guy pick it up, so maybe thats why my 16 or 20 in barreled rifles don't bother anybody, or maybe they just don't say anything about the blast, but if they did I would reply that this is a shooting range and guns are loud, if your hearing protection isn't sufficient it's not my problem. Crude yes, but I need to practice with my rifles just like the other guy to help me be a successful game shot, and it costs me the same 9 dollars as the next guy to shoot there.

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