Handloads for autoloading hunting rifle
I am loading for a new remington 750 in 35 whelen (I have mentioned it in a few other posts). I am excited about the caliber, and for the challenge of reloading for the gun. It seems the autoloaders are a bit picky. Not too much powder or you beat up your gun. Not too little or your rounds don't eject. The case needs to be full length sized and the whelen is easy to mess up the little shoulder. Sounds like Goldy Locks, every thing has to be just right.
There are a few questions I have though. What is a good way to measure the COL for the autoloader. Nosler and Barnes have theirs at near full length 3.340, but my magazine will not hold a bullet that long. Remington corlok 200g bullets are almost to the minimum length. This is the only gun I have owned that the magazine is SMALLER than the SAMI max COL. My usual method, putting the bullet in a slightly expanded case and measuring it after I have nudged it up to the lands and closed the bolt, has not worked real well. I am thinking maybe another piece of reloading equipment? But what would work best for the COL?
Also, I have tried a few low dose loads and have found powder fouling up the case body. The factory ammo does not do it. My first suspicion is too much head space. Maybe I crushed the shoulders? My next suspicion is pressure, but is it too much or too little. If I found the same thing in my bolt guns I would think too little neck tension, too little pressure not expanding the case well enough or once again head space. With the autoloader I wonder if too much pressure would blow some gas back as the bolt releases and another round is fed. My loads are at 1 grain above minimum for Nosler's 225g partition.
Yet another dilemma is that the gun will intermittently not cycle the next round. The spent round flies out of the gun pretty far and has not stuck yet. Again, the factory ammo does fine. I think it my be the COL again or too much/little powder. I have more than one clip, and I think one clip jams most if not all the time. I have eliminated it from the shooting and hope everything cycles well from now on.
The guns have a reputation as the JAMMASTER for a reason. I hope I can get it ironed out. I like shooting the gun.
Sorry to hear of your dilemma it mirrors issues I had with a BAR in 300WM I purchased new around 1990.
I loved the lines of the gun adn first thing I did was to have it parkerized and refinished the stock with a tung oil finish. Avidly reloading everything I could get my hands on at the time the first trip to the range produced a plethora of problems. It would jam on eject and I was getting powder residue blowing back into the magazine and covering the rounds with a silvery covered powder.
Frustrated I bought a box of factory ammo and had similar results. The shop I bought it from had a gunsmith who ran a shop in the basement and was certified to perform warranty work on all of te big name manufacturers. I told him what was going on and left the rifle with him after asking if there were any recalls on it.
I returned from vacation a week later and took it back to the range. It was better for a bit but quickly started to act up again.
Back to the smith who sent it off to the factory. I got it back about a month later with the recommendation not to shoot anything but factory ammo.
Back to the range and 1/2 a box of factory ammo with no ejection problems I was set to go hunting but every few rounds there would still be powder residue blown back on th erounds in the magazine.
During the following deer hunt the rifle failed to fully eject a round and was sold soon there after.
Years later I heard that there later was a partial recall on the rifle. Never bought another Browning product again.
Just did not like the way Browning washed their hands of it. I believe that some of their warranty personel are now at Tikka. But thats another story.