Yes, Potatoes can be grown most anywhere.
I guess with perma-frost in a lot of Alaska, growing potatoes outside would be a bit problematic. I was successful at growing potatoes in garbage cans, containers, and in pots while indoors when I lived in Northern Wisconsin. Potatoes do not like it too hot or at frost temperatures to grow so I sat them in front of windows at least 10 feet from the Wood Stove. It usually took 2 to 4 months for them to grow depending on the variety. I am not sure if there was any passive heat stored within the containers from being in the sunlight. I did this so long ago and that wasn't even thought about in the early 1980s.
Most gardeners know that seed potatoes are full-size potatoes that are allowed to start producing shoots in the potato eyes. This happens when youíve stored potatoes too long or when your child grows a potato plant from a potato suspended in a jar with water in it. I had always used old potatoes that I allowed to eye out by leaving them in a dark place until they eye up. Then, I would take them out and let them dry for a day or more before planting to callus up. Seed potatoes can be planted whole or by cutting them into pieces with each piece having one, two, or three eyes.
As long as the inside of the home is kept between 60 and 75 degrees farenheight and they have plentiful light I think the spuds should do very well. I plan to put in a few homebuilt triple pane sky lights in my upcoming build to augmet the window light. Cold climate gardeners plant potatoes in mid to late spring sometimes into June. Because I plant inside in containers... I plant fairly early in April.
I plant seed potatoes in the bottom of a tall container such as a clean garbage can. I like planting whole large potatoes if possible, however, one could plant whole small to medium seed potatoes or small pieces with 2-3 eyes each and sow them 2 inches deep with at least 8 inches of soil under them. Spread out the seed potatoes about 10 inches apart. I hilled the plants when they reached 8-9 inches high by placing soil up around them and surrounding the rest of the container with peat moss. Potatoes can rot if the soil is too cool or wet. One can also purchase a powdered fungicide for dusting onto the seed pieces to avoid rotting. Keep adding soil and/or peat as the plants get taller. Containers make hilling easy and take up very little space.
Potatoes donít care much for rich soil so most any drainable soil will do (do not plant in clay like soils). Make sure to water them at least and inch a week and allow the container to drain at the bottom into it's flattened lid or other large receptacle.
I harvested new potatoes at about 9 - 10 weeks after planting and harvested storage potatoes after the vines have all died. I like to extend my potato growing season so I choose an early variety, mid variety, and a couple late main season varieties. I am going to try these two blue flesh varieties that are varieties with highest amounts of antioxidants and these yellows that are second best and have excellent storage properties.
EATING SEASON | VARIETY | SKIN COLOR | FLESH COLOR | SHAPE | MATURITY | YIELD | STORAGE | BEST USES
Summer | Purple Majesty | purple | purple | oblong | early-mid | medium-high | fair salads, boiling, fries
Fall | All Blue | deep blue | blue/white | oblong | mid | medium-high | good | salads, boiling, fries
Winter \/ Bintje | yellow | yellow | oblong | late | high | excellent | soups, mashing
Spring /\ German Butterball | netted yellow | yellow | round-oblong | late | high | excellent baking, fries
A couple of Seed Potato Web Sites:
Ebbesson Farms - AlaskaPure Potatoes - Nenana Alaska
Ebbesson Farms in Nenana, Alaska is a certified organic producer of AlaskaPure Potatoes and Certified Seed Potatoes
www.ebbessonfarms.com - 3k - Cached
WHITE Seed Potatoes. AK 114- developed in Alaska. White skin and flesh - good all purpose ... Alaska- All purpose. White skin and flesh - excellent baker; most solid of any potato. ...
www.alaska.net/~dtaplin/spuds.html - 6k - Cached
And, some ALASKA CERTIFIED SEED POTATO GROWERS:
HC 60 Box 4185
Delta Junction AK 99737
907 895 4149
Delta Junction AK 99737
907 895 4148
HC03 Box 5480
Wasilla AK 99657
907 376 5217
HC01 Box 6124
Palmer AK 99645
Pyrah's Pioneer Peak Farm
Ted & Preston Pyrah
P O Box 966
Palmer AK 99645
907 745 3557
P.O. Box 370
Nenana AK. 99760
907 479 0440
Kodiac AK 99615
907 486 3099
P O Box 483
Delta Junction Ak 99737
907 895 4961
Little Susitna Farm
HC 5 Box 6872
Palmer AK 99645
907 746 5422
290 E Railroad Ave
Wasilla Ak 99654
907 373 5819
My Father's Farm
3450 Sharon Rd.
North Pole Ak 99705
907 488 7273
907 377 5190 fax
Hope this helps someone.
On this subject, I think you will find that if you don't use the same ground year after year, you will have better luck. I've seen where if you alternate the soil that you plant in you will get a better harvest. ( Plant a crop in one area for a couple of years, then switch to another piece of ground for a couple of year's.)
The land need's to rejuvinate.
Of course I could be wrong on this, but it's what I've noticed.
Thanks Rock skipper,
I like to rotate garden plots on a 5 year rotation. Some do a 7 year rotation, however, I have found that yeild is significantly decreased by the 5th or 6th year. I rotate my garden space so that part of my garden rests out on the 5th year. It is easier to divide a small garden crosswise into sections. The four sections being planted would be; Section A: Garlic/Onions/Leaks and Tomatoes, Section B: Carrots/Rutabagas/Horse Radish and Beets, Section C: Spinach/Lettuces/Cabbages, Section D: Corn/Squash/Pumpkin and Beans, Section E: rest. I rotate these Sections as the years go by. This is what I have found that works for me. Again, I am no expert so whatever works for you go ahead and share it with the rest of us so that we may give it a try.
Hope this helps.