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Thread: Boat Trailer Modification

  1. #1

    Default Boat Trailer Modification

    I have a 20' alumaweld superV Lt and its difficult to push the boat off the trailer without backing the rear wheels of my truck into the water. I hate doing that. The trailer is 2 bunks topped with hard plastic. I was thinking about replacing the last 5 feet of the pastic bunk with something like this:

    http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...382&id=0001917


    What do you think? Other options? Anyome have experience with these?

  2. #2
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    extend the trailer tongue and/or raise the height of the hitch ball to get the back end of your trailer lower.

  3. #3
    Member JOAT's Avatar
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    Rollers are bad. Thousands of boats have been destroyed on "EZ Loader" roller trailers. Simple physics... you take all the weight and put it on pin-point spots over each roller. This induces a whole bunch of flex points into the hull. Flex causes aluminum to crack. On the other hand, the bunk boards spread the weight out over a huge surface area.

    I agree with flatbottom's advice of extending the tongue a couple feet, though that is work that is going to cost a bit and needs to be done by an experience trailer builder. A different hitch that raises the ball is the cheapest add-on, but it will also have the least effect. In the grand scheme of things, getting the rear tires of the truck wet isn't really a problem. It's realy no worse than driving on a rain-soaked highway.
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    Member patrickL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOAT View Post
    Rollers are bad. Thousands of boats have been destroyed on "EZ Loader" roller trailers. Simple physics... you take all the weight and put it on pin-point spots over each roller. This induces a whole bunch of flex points into the hull. Flex causes aluminum to crack. On the other hand, the bunk boards spread the weight out over a huge surface area.

    I agree with flatbottom's advice of extending the tongue a couple feet, though that is work that is going to cost a bit and needs to be done by an experience trailer builder. A different hitch that raises the ball is the cheapest add-on, but it will also have the least effect. In the grand scheme of things, getting the rear tires of the truck wet isn't really a problem. It's realy no worse than driving on a rain-soaked highway.
    Where do you get the idea that roller trailers are "bad". I've lots of older aluminums on them up here and they seem fine. Mines been riding on an aluminum for 4 years now and I can't see anything to suggest a problem. Not to mention, lots of guys beach their aluminums on rocky shores. How is that not a similar problem? Just curious as if its a problem what do I do about it given my Hewes Ocean Pro is sitting on a EZ Loader roller trailer.

  5. #5
    Sponsor potbuilder's Avatar
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    In the grand scheme of things, getting the rear tires of the truck wet isn't really a problem. It's realy no worse than driving on a rain-soaked highway.[/QUOTE]

    Getting the tires wet isn't a problem its that saltwater on the brakes & metal parts that seems to cause problems

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  6. #6

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    Bingo! I don't want to get salt on the wheels and brakes and I don't want to get stuck in the sand if I launch on the beach which I would like to do. no problem on a ramp in a river or lake. I think the tongue extension has merit. What do other think about the rollers in the link I posted?

  7. #7
    Member Gundog's Avatar
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    Take a look at the trailer you may be able to adjust the bunks lower on the trailer, that will make the boat float sooner and you may not have to back in so far.

  8. #8
    Member Gundog's Avatar
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    Post a picture of the boat on the trailer you may get some good ideas that way.

  9. #9

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    I have had both trailers, I trailer 500mi to my camp 1 way traveling the interstates thru Gary, Chicago, and north to Lake Superior, usually about 4 trips a season, no section of road could be rougher then the construction zones, of cource they are 45MPH , or is it 85, anyway I removed the boat from the trailer to inspect it after 5yrs of this and the only damage was trailer damage, roller bushings pounded out. This being said the trailer was built for the boat that is on it which I think is important.
    On my bunk trailer I found the same problem you mentioned, I replaced the worn bunk carpet and started spraying them with wax prior to loading, this took care of my problems.
    My son in law used the slick stiks you mention and I thought it was too slick, had to keep the winch tight untill the boat was in the water.
    All that said, I'ld consider removing the boat to inspect the boat and trailer, with those slick stiks you should be able to unload before your ready.

  10. #10

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    Jonsboat, by slick sticks are you referring to the plastic stick that attach perpendicular to the bunkers or are you referring to the roolers I posted the link to?

  11. #11

    Default Longer receiver?

    The bigger the boat the more important it is to have more surface area supporting the hull, that's obvious. What I like about the bunks is the added insurance that if you forgot about the safety chain/cable you aren't launching your boat to soon before it's over the water.

    How about a hitch extension to keep the truck dryer?

  12. #12

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    Based on what I have heard so far I will be looking at: 1) adjusting the height of the bunks to lower the boat just a 'tad'; 2) a hitch or tongue extension. (I believe I already have the longest hitch available in Anchorage.) KEEP those suggestions coming.

  13. #13
    Member patrickL's Avatar
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    I've had both types of trailers and I prefer the rollers. That being said, I've only had the rollers on my current boat. What I do like about it is the ease with which the boat can be moved around on the trailer. Its not a problem at all to which up a fairly heavy boat. My trailer has alot of rollers and from what I've seen they don't seem to be impacting the boat. The boat's only 4 years old so I guess things could change with time but so far I've been really happy with it.

  14. #14
    Member moose-head's Avatar
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    Prolly a domb question, but do the trailer tounge extensions swivel to get out of the way for fitting into a garage?
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  15. #15
    Member patrickL's Avatar
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    While I'm not a huge fan of Cabelas, this would be pretty easy and looks to add on another 18inches or so.

    http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...233&hasJS=true

    My dad's boat has a swing tongue on the trailer. Sure is nice for fitting in a tight space.

  16. #16
    Member Crumm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BN2FSH View Post
    The trailer is 2 bunks topped with hard plastic.
    What kind of hard plastic? You might try replacing it with UHMW or spraying it with some slick coating like MaryKate Liquid Rollers. http://www.boatersland.com/mkt6810.html

    Most aluminum boat manufacturers recommend bunk trailers over roller trailers. I would not put rollers under a aluminum boat.

  17. #17

    Default Leave your trailer the way it is....

    ....And pay the $60 for the tractors to launch you. If you are wanting to do the modifications solely for beach launching it doesn't make sense. No matter how you modify your trailer, if the surf picks up your truck is going to get wet.

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crumm View Post
    What kind of hard plastic? You might try replacing it with UHMW or spraying it with some slick coating like MaryKate Liquid Rollers. http://www.boatersland.com/mkt6810.html

    Most aluminum boat manufacturers recommend bunk trailers over roller trailers. I would not put rollers under a aluminum boat.
    Right on!!
    If we are talking a heavily cross braced boat with stringer's & 3/8" or thicker bottom, rollers bunks probably would be no issue.

    But on 3/16" & definitely .125 & under roller bunks arent a good thing.

  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by BN2FSH View Post
    Jonsboat, by slick sticks are you referring to the plastic stick that attach perpendicular to the bunkers or are you referring to the roolers I posted the link to?
    In your original post you mentioned the bunks topped with hard plastic, that is what I am referring to.

    The ones my son in law added to his bunks were called slick stiks.

  20. #20
    Member Xerophobic's Avatar
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    get a ball and a coupler and a peice of steel(or aluminum) tubing the same size as the tongue. Make a simple "extension" bar. Get the boat to the launch, chock wheels, unhook, pull ahead, install extension, launch. reverse for loading.

    Cheap easy and could be considerable longer than anything permanent
    Skinny water addict

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