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Thread: It happened: Case stuck in die

  1. #1

    Default It happened: Case stuck in die

    Well it finally happened to me! I made it a long time and many rounds, but tonight stuck my first case. 270 Win in RCBS FL die.

    Is there any viable alternative except to order a RCBS stuck case remover? I've got the die upside down and put some Kroil on it hoping it will get down in the die body between the brass and die to help when it comes time to pull it out.

    I need to get the stuck case remover, should have had one anyway I guess. Any home brew remedies out there?

  2. #2
    Member Big Al's Avatar
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    Sure I can tell you how to spend hours on end to get a stuck case out and maybe damage the die, if that's what you want? Or get the stuck case remover and spend minutes and take no chance of damaging the die. Which will it be?
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tryants." (Thomas Jefferson

  3. #3

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    Thanks Al, you make that a pretty easy decision! Guess I will be getting the stuck case remover asap!

  4. #4
    Moderator stid2677's Avatar
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    Always good to have the right tool for the job. However, this tool is fairly EZ to make. A screw and spacer.

    Good Luck
    Steve

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idC2HN0X5mA

  5. #5
    Member gunbugs's Avatar
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    You will need:
    1. a 1/4x28 taper tap
    2. A #3 drill
    3. A 3/8 drive socket that is close to the same dia. as the die body with an inside dia. large enough to clear the case.
    4. A 1/4 x 28 socket head screw long enough to go through the socket and fully engage the head of the case.
    5. Flat washers to put on top of the socket to accept the 1/4 socket head screw.
    Use as follows:
    Unscrew the decapping rod and pull it up inside the die as far as you can.
    Drill out the primer pocket all the way into the case body with the #3 drill being careful not to impact the decapping rod with the drill.
    Tap the hole to 1/4x28
    Put the socket over the die with the flat washers on top and insert the screw through the washers and thread into the case.
    Holding the die firmly in a padded vise turn the screw and draw the case out of the die.
    Now remove the screw and socket assy.
    Screw the decapping rod back into the die, grab the case in the vise and pull the die off the case with a rocking motion.
    Final step: Stop using spray lube.
    "A strong body makes the mind strong. As to the species of exercises, I advise the gun. While this gives moderate exercise to the body, it gives boldness, enterprise, and independence to the mind."

  6. #6
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    Once this happened to me and I heated the base of the brass with a torch then quenched it in cold water. Brass pulled out easily with pliers. Die appears to be unharmed except for a slight color change.
    Then I purchased the RCBS stuck case kit
    Tennessee

  7. #7
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    Default I might ADD,,

    The reason that a case sticks in the die IS,,,,,,,, There wasn't Lube, or enough of it, on the BASE of the CASE.

    Gunbug's explanation on how to sorta make your own "Stuck Case Remover" can't be improved on.

    It just, uhh, "Can't be improved on".

    Smitty of the North
    Walk Slow, and Drink a Lotta Water.
    Has it ever occurred to you, that Nothing ever occurs to God? Adrien Rodgers.
    You can't out-give God.

  8. #8
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowwolfe View Post
    Once this happened to me and I heated the base of the brass with a torch then quenched it in cold water. Brass pulled out easily with pliers. Die appears to be unharmed except for a slight color change.
    Then I purchased the RCBS stuck case kit
    I am the kind of guy that does this kind of stuff myself but I feel compelled to point out the risks involved. Don’t do this unless you are enough of a gambler that your willing to roll the dice on ruining your die. That color change marks enough heat to possibly affect the temper in some steels. Most dies are likely high grade alloys that are "normalized" which is done by even heating then air cooling. Quenching (rapid cooling) could over harden many alloys, but normalizing may soften many others. So without knowing what you are working with the risk of killing the die is very high.

    The tap the back method as laid out by Gunbugs is the best method and is exactly how the stuck case kits you buy work.
    Andy
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    Phoenix Arizona

  9. #9

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    Thanks Gunbugs for the detailed how to info. Appreciate that very much. I will pull it and not risk ruining the die.

    How did you know I was using spray lube! Normally I use a little lube from the round tin on my fingers and transfer to the base, but this time I was using a cold winter day to size all the fired 270 rounds I have, so was doing a "mass lub'ing" of 180 cases and sprayed them with the Hornady spray lube. Which, I may add, have used successfully in the past. Must have missed one this time though!

  10. #10
    Member Big Al's Avatar
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    Just buy and keep Handy a tin of Die Wax on your table and keep it on your fingers while sizeing your cases. I use spray lube I make myself and still use Die Wax. So far I have used two tins since 1975 came out along with one tin of neck lube for the inside of case necks. Not what you would call a bunch of money for all the years I have had it on the bench. I don't think I could work brass anymore if I didn't have the security of Die Wax. By the way I have never dented a case with Die Wax, that is the only lube I can say that about.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tryants." (Thomas Jefferson

  11. #11
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Al View Post
    I use spray lube I make myself and still use Die Wax.
    Iím a DIY kind of guy from back when we just called it being a poor farmer, so what's your spray lube recipe and hows she work Al?
    Andy
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    Email= Andy@C-lazy-F.co
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  12. #12
    Member Big Al's Avatar
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    Two bottles of 91% Isopropyl alcohol and half a tub of hydro lanolin from the drug store mix together in a big bottle and pour as needed into a spray bottle stolen from better half. Shake and spray (in my case on case feeders loaded with brass ready to load) This is for progressive presses. When I load just (less than a couple of hundred) I use just manual lube for each case.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tryants." (Thomas Jefferson

  13. #13
    Member gunbugs's Avatar
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    As I've been actively repairing and working on guns for a living for 24 or 25 years I've extracted 3 or 4 stuck cases a year. Since the introduction of aerosol lubes for case sizing, 90% of the time I can say" you were using one shot" and be correct. I've seen more stuck cases with one shot than ANY other lube. I can say I've pulled a bunch of stuck cases.
    "A strong body makes the mind strong. As to the species of exercises, I advise the gun. While this gives moderate exercise to the body, it gives boldness, enterprise, and independence to the mind."

  14. #14

    Default I'm back in business...

    Quote Originally Posted by gunbugs View Post
    As I've been actively repairing and working on guns for a living for 24 or 25 years I've extracted 3 or 4 stuck cases a year. Since the introduction of aerosol lubes for case sizing, 90% of the time I can say" you were using one shot" and be correct. I've seen more stuck cases with one shot than ANY other lube. I can say I've pulled a bunch of stuck cases.
    I used the advice given and drilled and tapped and pulled, and vualaa out it came! Die is fine. Thanks to all.

    Have to admit, Gunbugs nailed me: I was using Hornady one shot lube.
    I do want to add I normally use Imperial Case sizing wax, BUT if I am doing A LOT of rounds, for sure if 100 plus at one time I use the Hornady one shot lube.

    Looking at it statistically, I am not going to blame the Hornady one shot lube, it does work IF applied correctly. My spray technique obviously didn't get one lubed enough or at all. Here is what I mean by "statistically": I've have sized more cases overall using the one shot due to the bulk process I mentioned, versus using the Imperial Wax for my small batches and for load development. I do a lot of that, but not a lot of rounds each time.

    I will be more careful in my application when spraying though. I do try and follow the directions closely and absolutely hate shaking that can for a full minute, that annoys me to no end....

    Thanks again to all, another lesson learned in the awesome hobby of handloading...

  15. #15

    Default Congtratulation on the Dubious Distinction Award

    It took me 15 years to stick my first case. Within a month I managed to do it again. Havn't been able to do it in the 20+ years since.

    Gunbugs given you a very good description of how to use an RCBS type stuck case remover. You might want to save that set of directions.

    "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSzkdqM45KE&NR=1"
    This is another video on removing a stuck case. Doesn't use a lathe.

    Chris112

  16. #16
    Member kodiakrain's Avatar
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    Default Good info here

    Nice Job Gunbug, that's an excellent thing to know, save us all another part to buy when we have that stuff already in the shop, the Youtube video was good also

    Now I'm not sure I got an answer to the proper lube though, yes, I was really liking One Shot for ease of use and maybe as I am only doing 20-40 rounds at a time so have all kinds of attention to overkilling stuff rather than going too quick maybe it will continue to work for me?

    Those numbers Gunbug came up with is not the kind of experience I like to ignore tho so Gb, what's your solution ?,

    What is Die Wax ?

    I also have the RCBS pad and bottle of stuff, is that really good or just kinda?

    Good posts, thanks for saving me from sending off for yet another tool I don't need, I got the picture on doing that with stuff I have already

    Can I add something else, I don't have a case tumbler yet and am just hand wiping to clean, a little brake cleaner to the rag sometimes, If I am just hand cleaning the cases, (they're very new and shiny still after 3 firings etc) what do you recommend for a solvent to clean brass wax or lube off before firing them?

  17. #17
    Member Big Al's Avatar
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    For many years (back when Fred was still alive) RCBS was regular old STP a can of which was a life times worth when used for reloading and was a buck a can in the early 1960's. Geee, that was fifty years ago, just to let you pups know how long a buck could carry you.



    Sorry I dern near forgot. http://www.sinclairintl.com/product/8842/Case-Sizing Use this stuff and it is addicting rater quick.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tryants." (Thomas Jefferson

  18. #18
    Moderator stid2677's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Al View Post
    For many years (back when Fred was still alive) RCBS was regular old STP a can of which was a life times worth when used for reloading and was a buck a can in the early 1960's. Geee, that was fifty years ago, just to let you pups know how long a buck could carry you.



    Sorry I dern near forgot. http://www.sinclairintl.com/product/8842/Case-Sizing Use this stuff and it is addicting rater quick.
    +1 for Imperial Die Wax, the stuffs rocks. Plus no hazmat if I remember right, last fore ever and I just wipe it off with a soft rag. In a tin, looks like lip balm. Not messy at all.

    Steve

  19. #19

    Default

    I got three 300 RUM cases stuck in a body die (not at the same time ) a while back. They had been fired a few times in load development without being body sized and had probably been overpressured.

    I put the body die upside down into the press and screwed it up until the bottom of the die was just below the the top of the press. Then I got some 1/4" self drilling and self tapping screws and took a cordless impact driver and screwed the screw down into the primer pocket. Then I used a scrap peice of wood as a spacer/protector and a crow bar and pulled the cases out.

    And yes, I was using One Shot, but I doubt any lube would have helped these cases. The solution to not getting the cases stuck was to work the handle up and down gradually which I did on some others and it worked just fine. Since then, I have body sized all the cases after each firng and there have been no problems - smooth as silk.

    I'm sticking with One Shot. It works when used "correctly" and it works well. I have dented a lot of cases using the old RCBS lube and got a lot of chatter when it builds up in the die.

    If I ever get another case stuck I'll modify the procedure with washers, socket and rachet. Way easy.

  20. #20
    Member kodiakrain's Avatar
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    Default Finding Die Wax ?

    Tried finding the Die Wax from links provided here, Sinclair, Out of Stock

    Anyone know where I can find some, Anch or online? Thanks

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