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Thread: If you don't mind.

  1. #1
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    Default If you don't mind.

    Iíve found it necessary to lubricate the RAM on my Bench Presses.

    Iíve yet to find a lube that is completely satisfactory. I want something that doesnít collect dust, and become greasy, or make a rubbing, bumping, sound because the lube has stopped lubing.

    Iíve tried silicone, and various oils, greases etc. Currently, Iím trying Lee Case Lube. Iím not sure if that will be the answer, so thought Iíd ask what you other guys use.

    What is the best? Do ya have to keep cleaning an re-applying, etc.

    Thanks Anyone.
    Smitty of the North
    Walk Slow, and Drink a Lotta Water.
    Has it ever occurred to you, that Nothing ever occurs to God? Adrien Rodgers.
    You can't out-give God.

  2. #2

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    I've used EezOx for years, but I'm down to my last few drops in the can and the local source is dried up. I either have to order some more or switch. I used WD40 for years, but it always collected dust and grit. The EezOx evaporates to leave a dry film that works great.

  3. #3
    Member Akheloce's Avatar
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    Have you tried Dry Film Lubricant? It's the Mil-Spec coating for M-16 touch up, and has held up well when I used to work on Blackhawk helicopters.

    It's spendy, but worth it IMO.

    If you try it, just make sure that the parts are VERY clean before application, and totally dry before using.

    http://www.ellsworth.com/display/pro...?productid=325

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    Member AKsoldier's Avatar
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    graphite. just draw all over it with a pencil until you see graphite dust begin to build up, work the lever a few times, blow away the excess. Sounds silly, but it works. An old locksmith gave me that tip.

    The other 299,300,000 people can have it.

    Noone has a more intimate understanding of, or deeper appreciation for freedom, than a soldier who has fought for it in a country where it does not exist.

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    I have not tried it yet but I was thinking of using graphite as well. Either the dry powder or the throttle cable lubricant which is graphite in a very light oil the oil evaporates and leaves a film. NAPA has both. I have used them both on the wratchets in my tool box, it allows them to work fine at -40.

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    Member marshall's Avatar
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    I use Dry Slide, sometimes sold under the name Bike Aid, it's a cable lubricant.

    http://www.ironbraid.com/driside.html

    Like mentioned by bandhmo it's supported in a light liquid. I use it on throttle and clutch cables and of course my 550B when it needs it.

    I've even run a patch with a few drops of Dry Slide down my barrel after it's cleaned to aid in first shot lube without oil fouling, it works great.

  7. #7

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    Come to think of it, one of my old reloading mentors used to use his Imperial sizing wax. I may try that next, just cuzz it's right there on my bench.

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    Member atvalaska's Avatar
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    Lightbulb i cleaned mine a few weeks ago..

    with brake clean and fine steel wool ..blew out with air then a large gun patch of tri-flow,works like new ...
    WHEN IN DOUBT> THROTTLE OUT.......

  9. #9

    Default press lube

    What a great thread!
    Been using motor oil but been having dust and such built up.
    Like the cable lube idea and all the aerosol options. Good stuff.

  10. #10
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    Thanks All, for All the ideas.

    When I find a lube for this demanding application, that meets my high standards, I'll let'cha know.

    BrownBear:
    Ya know what? Someone gave me a large can of "Burts Bees", a Natural hand cream. It worked great as a Patch lube in my muzzle-loader, but even better for case lube.

    Thanks Again.
    Smitty of the North
    Walk Slow, and Drink a Lotta Water.
    Has it ever occurred to you, that Nothing ever occurs to God? Adrien Rodgers.
    You can't out-give God.

  11. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Smitty of the North View Post
    BrownBear:
    Ya know what? Someone gave me a large can of "Burts Bees", a Natural hand cream. It worked great as a Patch lube in my muzzle-loader, but even better for case lube.

    I know a couple of people that tried it for patch lube and liked it a lot. Their only problem with it was cost. I've used a concoction of deer tallow and olive oil for years, but I have to use different blends summer and winter, because they get too soft or too hard, depending. Lately I've been using Mink Oil Tallow. It's incredible stuff and dirt cheap. The photo is mislabeled, because it's 8 oz for the same price rather than 6 oz. Haven't tried it for a case lube or ram lube, but it just might be dandy.

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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    When I started moly coating bullets, I thought hmm, why don't I put some moly on a patch and rub it on the rams and jaws of my co-ax. It may not be as slick as an oil lube, but I think between sizing, neck belling, seating and crimping, I've run the press up and down at least 20,000 times since I applied the moly and it still operates smoothly w/o squeeks and hasn't attracted any dust.

  13. #13
    Member HCL's Avatar
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    Remington Rem-DriLube, it leaves a dryTeflon coating that lasts for a long time. It has been several years since I used it last and still slick as whistle. Will not collect dust or grime. Oh great for internal gun works in the cold too. Easy to find at most gun shops.
    Hope this helps.
    Mike

  14. #14

    Default press ram lube

    I've found that many greasy or waxy substances actually create extra some resistance to the ram's movement, so I took to using Break-Free. Been using it with success on the ram and my trimmer's shaft. I wipe it all off after each session and apply new for the next session.

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    I think I've got some good ideas.

    As Hank Williams usta say..... "Thank ya fellers. Thank ya, a whole lot."

    Smitty of the North
    Walk Slow, and Drink a Lotta Water.
    Has it ever occurred to you, that Nothing ever occurs to God? Adrien Rodgers.
    You can't out-give God.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrownBear View Post
    I know a couple of people that tried it for patch lube and liked it a lot. Their only problem with it was cost. I've used a concoction of deer tallow and olive oil for years, but I have to use different blends summer and winter, because they get too soft or too hard, depending. Lately I've been using Mink Oil Tallow. It's incredible stuff and dirt cheap. The photo is mislabeled, because it's 8 oz for the same price rather than 6 oz. Haven't tried it for a case lube or ram lube, but it just might be dandy.
    Thanks BB, for the tip on patch lube.

    I'm looking for something I can mix with Lard. I've got some that I rendered myself. I was told that Lard alone wouldn't last long before cleaning was necessary.

    I could use the rest of my Burts Bees, for case lube, but I don't need that much. I just may buy a SMALL can of it, for the case lube and use the rest for patching.

    Smitty of the North
    Walk Slow, and Drink a Lotta Water.
    Has it ever occurred to you, that Nothing ever occurs to God? Adrien Rodgers.
    You can't out-give God.

  17. #17
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    Default Press lubes

    I took my old RCBS A2 press apart the other day to lube it as it was getting sticky again. The A2 gets pretty dirty in the ram area because of the way it handles the spent primers. I bought this one new in the mid 60s and have used it as my main press ever since.

    I washed it down good with brake cleaner and then lubed the rams sliding surfaces with high solids spray silicone lube. The pivot points on the linkage I lubed with EP moly synthetic grease as they are under shear and not sliding friction. Moly is great for high load bearings but is not as good on sliding surfaces where silicone is good for lightly loaded sliding surfaces and does not pick up too much dirt.

    Works great again but I'll proably need to repeat it in a few years.
    Living the urban lifestyle so I can pay my way and for my family's needs, and support my country. And you?
    ".. ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country" JFK

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