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Thread: Alweld Jet Tunnel Boats

  1. #1

    Default Alweld Jet Tunnel Boats

    I am Jeff from Kansas. Info on jet outboards & boats is hard to come by here.
    I have some experience with the Wooldridge Alaskan.
    My question is how well does the Alweld with jet tunnel compare in performance to the Wooldridge?
    I am aware that the Wooldridge is the benchmark for outboard jet boats. I just cant afford a Wooldridge at this time.

  2. #2
    Member Crumm's Avatar
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    I purchased a Alweld tunnel last summer and think it performs great. I have never been around a Wooldridge Alaskan so I can't really compare the two. My Alweld is a small 1452 with a 40 Yamaha Jet and for a small boat with small power it does a great job. Jumps right on step and handles like it is on rails. Never has cavitated once. Alwelds seem to have a good reputation of standing the test of time around here.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crumm View Post
    Alwelds seem to have a good reputation of standing the test of time around here.
    This is the type of answer I was looking for. Good or bad.
    Thank You!!
    Jeff

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    Member patrickL's Avatar
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    Hey Jeff,

    Welcome to the forums. While I don't own an Alweld I've heard good things about them. You might also look at G3 and Lowe. I know G3 makes a good jet and Lowe at least use to make a jet.

    Where in KS are you from. My folks still live in Desoto.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by patrickL View Post
    Hey Jeff,

    Welcome to the forums. While I don't own an Alweld I've heard good things about them. You might also look at G3 and Lowe. I know G3 makes a good jet and Lowe at least use to make a jet.

    Where in KS are you from. My folks still live in Desoto.
    Patrick, your folks in Desoto are less than 5 miles from me. If there is any thing I could do to help you out let me know.
    I grew up in Olathe, my Dad grew up & graduated from Desoto High School.

    Jeff "Kawriverrat"

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    Member patrickL's Avatar
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    Grew up in Olathe as well. Went to Olathe East, 1995, and did alot of deer hunting out in Desoto. Kansas State after that. My parents moved to Desoto shortly after we left home for college. Guess they'd had enough of yuppie-ville.

    What are you planning using your jet for? Kind of an odd place for a jet unless you are planning on hitting some of the bigger rivers. Let me know if you ever make it up this way.

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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Crumm View Post
    I purchased a Alweld tunnel last summer and think it performs great. I have never been around a Wooldridge Alaskan so I can't really compare the two. My Alweld is a small 1452 with a 40 Yamaha Jet and for a small boat with small power it does a great job. Jumps right on step and handles like it is on rails. Never has cavitated once. Alwelds seem to have a good reputation of standing the test of time around here.
    Like Crumm said, they've been tried/tested and have done a helluva job, because they're still being bought and used up here with regularity. I have a 20' AK II w/ a 140 SUZ jet and I love it just for the reasons stated. If you cannot afford the Wooly, the Alweld will not dissappoint you if that's the direction you go. Good luck...

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    Member Crumm's Avatar
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    By the way since you are out in America be sure the dealer doesn't try and sell you a prop tunnel. Alweld makes both a prop tunnel and a jet tunnel. The prop tunnel is deeper than the jet tunnel and will not perform well with a jet.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by patrickL View Post
    .

    What are you planning using your jet for? Kind of an odd place for a jet unless you are planning on hitting some of the bigger rivers. Let me know if you ever make it up this way.
    I fish & guide a bit for Catfish on the Kansas River. The Kansas or Kaw River is one of our Nations top waters for Flathead Catfish.
    I ran a propped Merc 50 hp on it for years. It did all right. But replacing props at the rate I wore them out wasn't cheap.

    As you probably know the river here gets pretty bony in the summer. Thought about building an air boat. But I cant stand the noise & they are hard to fish out of.

    So I believe I will be purchasing an Alweld 2060 with jet tunnel. The biggest issue I have now is wondering how well or terrible my old 90 hp Johnson will push it with a jet?

    Glen at Wooldridge told me he knows of folks using 90 tillers outfitted with jet on Alaskan twos. The Wooldridge boat being a bit heavier than what I am looking at. I hope my 90 will work well enough to get by with. Until I am able to get a bigger motor.

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    Default Cann`t Afford

    Here is a deal

    http://bellingham.craigslist.org/boa/1561126168.html[/url]

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    Exclamation alweld boat in the states is NOT the same as alweld here in fbks..

    Quote Originally Posted by Kawriverrat View Post
    I am Jeff from Kansas. Info on jet outboards & boats is hard to come by here.
    I have some experience with the Wooldridge Alaskan.
    My question is how well does the Alweld with jet tunnel compare in performance to the Wooldridge?
    I am aware that the Wooldridge is the benchmark for outboard jet boats. I just cant afford a Wooldridge at this time.
    u are close enougth down there for a road trip to AR.. the allwleds here are custom built for the boat shop/our area.... to boat shop spec's. IF I were u I would get "our version" ..(2 Braces in the rear..all metal transome, angles and side height, tunnel design etc) of the boat, it will last along time..I'm about to have them build me one ..(i changed a few spec's that works in shallow water ) and they said yes (read as more $).......
    WHEN IN DOUBT> THROTTLE OUT.......

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by atvalaska View Post
    IF I were u I would get "our version" ..(2 Braces in the rear..all metal transome, angles and side height, tunnel design etc) of the boat, it will last along time..I'm about to have them build me one ..(i changed a few spec's that works in shallow water ) and they said yes (read as more $).......
    I will talk with Alweld. What specs did you change for skinny water?

    Alwed is wanting to charge me for no rear bench seat. I find that a bit ammussing. I am also going to go with a smaller boat. The dealer in Misourri that is closest to me wants $6000 for a 2060. I am confident I could find a used 17' Alaskan boat with no motor for that or not much more than that.
    So I will just pushase one that will work well with my 90 hp.

  13. #13
    Member Crumm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by atvalaska View Post
    (2 Braces in the rear..all metal transome, angles and side height, tunnel design etc)
    Add heavy duty Gunnel to that list. The Alaska Boat Shop models don't just have the standard round tube Gunnel they are oval shaped and heavy.

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    Member Crumm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kawriverrat View Post
    Alwed is wanting to charge me for no rear bench seat. I find that a bit amusing.
    There is actually more structure material added when the seat is removed. Take a look at this picture and imagine it with the seat removed but with two more cross braces and you can see where there would be more to it. They can't just omit the seat without adding structure or the sides would be flimsy. Much more welding and material without the seat so I imagine is would cost a few more bucks.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Member atvalaska's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kawriverrat View Post
    I will talk with Alweld. What specs did you change for skinny water?

    Alwed is wanting to charge me for no rear bench seat. I find that a bit ammussing. I am also going to go with a smaller boat. The dealer in Misourri that is closest to me wants $6000 for a 2060. I am confident I could find a used 17' Alaskan boat with no motor for that or not much more than that.
    So I will just pushase one that will work well with my 90 hp.
    what crumm said ,and.. get the 0 deg bottem...the last 5 to 6 ribs. (the boat will go from a 6 deg rise to ..Flat the last 6' or so..on my 24 footer) it well get u "the ride" along with real skinny water running. ..rear bench seat they can put it anywhere and it is welded ALL the way around..then hit cabels for some storage inserts and go for the 58" bow deck , u can add stoarge there too,with room for a ped seat to cast from..
    WHEN IN DOUBT> THROTTLE OUT.......

  16. #16

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    The gunnel option is one I was wanting to get. I can see them having to put at least one if not two braces if the rear bench goes & you are right more weld time.
    I want this boat, what ever size I end up with to be open. It can cause some issues in the wind but I also am going to check on getting a high sided bow.

    Another big question, I have seen folks deal with it in different ways. What is the best way to set the boat up regarding transom height when lifting & lowering an OB to swap from jet to prop?
    I have heard various thoughts.

  17. #17
    Member Akgramps's Avatar
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    You have a couple of options for adjusting your motor height that I am aware of.
    If you can get a "bay extension" for your motor, that may the simplest, you attach the motor to the transom at the proper height for your jet, when you want to run the run the prop, drop the jet unit, install the ~5" bay extension and prop lower. Therortically you should be at the right height. I have never used one, so I do not have any hands on experience w/ this method. perhaps some who has will chime in.

    The second method is a manual lift, this is what is in my picture, ignore the fact that is not set right in the photo, I hung the motor on the lift so I could make syre and cut my transom off at the right location. (measure twice, cut once). The lift in the picture is from Specialty Jet, same folks who make the OB jet units, ~ $400.00.

    The third choice is a power lift, here is a link to power trans.
    http://www.powrtran.com/cgi-bin/cart...?parts_id=9662
    I am currently in the process of installing one of these on my boat, the advantage is you have height control for both the prop and the jet while under way, handy to find the "sweet spot".
    I decided on the power trans for 2 reasons, first, because it has almost 8" of travel and some of the other lifts may not have enough. The second reason is because it is a screw jack and will not creep down like a hydraulic cylinder could.

    Both lifts are heavy, the power trans is almost double the weight of the manual lift, I tried to adjust the manual on the river last year and it could be done, but it is a pain.

    The big question is how often do you plan to make the swap? always in a shop where you have a way to easily pick the motor off the transom?
    If so the maybe consider using some aluminum angle to extend the transom when using the jet.

    Here in AK. oftentimes we want the ability to run as far as possible on the prop and then switch to a jet, in that situation a power lift is much handier.

    In either case be aware that a lift with a setback is a huge lever on the transom and some reinforcing maybe required, the other negative is it will cause the back of the boat to set lower in the water, my boat w/ a 60" bottom and a 140 motor sat some 3"4" lower w/ the manual lift, I am now considering some pods.

    Hope this helps, good luck, John
    Last edited by Akgramps; 03-21-2010 at 22:55.
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
    TR

  18. #18

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    Akgramps, thanks for your reply.

    When using a jack plate of any type, because of the extension it creates, I wonder about it causing cavitation? When I look at tunnel designs that work the leading edge of the intake is tucked up into the tunnel.

    It would be a simple matter for me to extend the tunnel. If that is all it would take.

  19. #19
    Member Akgramps's Avatar
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    In my opinion you will need to extend the tunnel, at the least a piece of UHMW on top or you may want to extend the entire tunnel right back to the foot w/ aluminium, which is what I ended up doing.
    Most likely you will still need a piece of UMHW on top as tunnels seem to create a lot of spray (in my limited experience).
    For what ever reason tunnels seem to create some tubulent water when it exits the hull and it always seems to come over the top edge of the foot and then it hits the bowl and you get a big spray/ boil and water coming over the transom.
    I have seen a lot of flatties w/o a tunnel and the foot sitting back from the edge 3"-4" and the water just comes off clean right into the foot?
    I think some turbulence is inherent w/ a tunnel as it is forcing the water into a chute?
    One thing to be aware of with aluminium tunnel extensions is to make sure the roof or top of the tunnel does not angle down as this will act like a trim tab and push the bow down, could be desireable on some boats w/ a porposing problem.
    The tunnel extension could be bent to fit over the top or welded on, I bolted mine on, and beveled the original for a smooth water flow as possible, I was concerned about it when I did but has worked ok. My thoughts were I could adjust the angle if need be, cause of all the probs I had w/ the original welded extension that angled down 5-6 degrees.
    I angled up the new one about 2 degrees and it has worked great.
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
    TR

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    Default Alweld weigh in

    I run a 2272V Alweld tunnel w/ a 150hp Yamaha. It is set up with a CMC lift so that I can run either a prop or jet. This boat has been a great deep water heavy load mover as well as a very good shallow water boat.
    This model comes with the high sides and the splash well in back.
    The boat has been exremely durable. The only issue I have had was that the transom needed another stiffener plate added due to the motor setback the CMC lift adds. That should not be a problem with the newer boats as I understand they no longer use a plywood core on the transom. A V-4, 360lb motor would also not be a problem. Again, the splash well is a real key in adding bracing and strength to the transom.
    This boat has the large bow platform that personally I would like to make smaller. I do not have quite the floor space I'd like between the cabin and the aft ege of the platform and I do not really need that much top deck.
    The tunnel does have a 2" extension for bolting on an extension for running the jet. My bolt on is aluminum, and someday when I am not lazy that will be changed out for UHMW-PE. My son bent the aluminum last summer and we had to straighten it out. If you add a bolt on extension, I'd trim the motor all the way forward and use that to measure for length. That way when you are in the water you don't force the motor into the extension. Even UHMW after time will bend up if left under pressure.
    I also run a 2052 flatbottom skiff with a V-4 Johnson jet. This boat does not have a tunnel. I have carried some crazy loads in this set up, and it runs extremely shallow even without the tunnel. I've thought long and hard about cutting in a shallow tunnel to raise the motor just above the bottom of the boat.
    The flatbottom runs really efficient and if I never needed to go into big water w/ waves would have bought a bigger flatbottom over the V model Alweld.
    I am also contemplating sponsons or float pods on the back of both boats to give a bit better lift/floatation and protect the motors a bit. The 2052 is my small water, creek, log jumper, explorer and I've been hung up more than once on log jams, stump, beaver dams, etc because the motor caught just as I slid over the obstacle.
    There has been a lot of really good info from all the guys posting here. I have learned a few things about the Alwelds I did not know before.
    Thanks guys,
    ARR

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