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Thread: I'm Puzzled!

  1. #1

    Smile I'm Puzzled!

    Hi Folks,

    Well thought I'd post this to all of you seasoned reloaders. I've been successfully reloading for years and just started building some new loads for my 9.3x62. I settled on Graf brass ( only thing available at the time) and Speer 270 Hot Cor. I loaded at minimum load data per Speer manual and had some interesting things occur at the range this morning.

    Out of 30 rounds, I had 5 fail to fire on first try - they did fire second time but they were fliers from the rest of the group. On some that did fire first time, I had primers backing out a bit. I even had two primed cases that after seating the primer looked to deep so I only fired those without a charge and those backed out as well. I know this brass is not consistent in terms of uniformity (some fit loose in shell holder, some tight, some not at all) so I sorted and only used those that fit without force in the shell holder.

    Anyway, my question is - it the variances in the brass that is causing this or something else? I do have to say also that I normally use a Lee hand priming tool with great success, but unfortunately none of my brass would fit in the shell holder without much force. I therefore, bought an RCBS hand priming tool and used that to seat the primers. I can tell you I don't think I seated primers as well as in the Lee.

    Also, I'm pretty sure it's not the primers - I've used same primers in other loads lately with 0 problems.

    Thanks for your thoughts.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Southwest Alaska


    You answered your own question with your comment regarding visible variances in primer seating depth. I have the same brass. I haven't loaded any rounds yet though.

    Did you uniform the primer pockets? This won't help if the pockets are too deep, but will alert you to which cases have deep primer pockets. You could keep those brass for practice and seat short.
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  3. #3


    Thanks for response NitroMan. No I didn't uniform the primer pockets. I'm disappointed to say the least if in fact it is the brass - I think it is. I have other brand ordered and am hoping it is of higher quality. Thanks again.

  4. #4


    Those primers backing out makes me guess you've got another variation going on- head space. If there's that much going on, I'd can the brass.

    But if you want to salvage it, you can also use an old trick for moving a shoulder forward. With a starting load, seat your bullet out far enough to just engage the rifling, so that the round is "head spacing" on the bullet rather than the case shoulder. On firing, the case will fill into the chamber and effectively move your shoulder forward.

    That sounds pretty radical if you have never done it before, but it's pretty standard practice for rounds with minimum shoulder. I had a 375 Whelen for a few years that was notoriously difficult to headspace rounds for fireforming. The solution was to do as I described, then neck-size only once the brass was formed.

  5. #5

    Default Look

    Look at the primers that you were using to prime the cases . I know this sounds crazy but are they large rifle primers? Large pistol primers will go in rifle brass, BUt they are shorter in length and can seat too deep and cause problems. When they fire they will flatten prematurely and aren't made heavy enough and tend to back out of the pocket sometimes.
    I've gotten them mixed up before and this happened to me as well.
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  6. #6


    Thanks for the ideas guys. Brav01 that makes sense, but definitely using large rifle primers. The funny thing is it doesn't back primers/misfire every case. The majority of the cases look fine. What a quandry. As for the steps you described BRWNBR - I'm not real crafty when it comes to that, but it makes sense. I've tried things such as necking up '06 brass for the 9.3 which seems like it would be a no brainer - but had nothing but problems. The real problem is I've never had any cartridges that took any work to make/load. Pretty generic cartridges with me. If I could find a way to just neck up/fireform '06 brass that would be a good day!

  7. #7


    I'm betting the bullet seating I described will make fireforming from 06 a breeze for you. And as for the hassle of case forming, I just do a whole bunch at once so it's a long time till I have to do it again.

    A couple of other rounds that could give shoulder-forming fits were the 6mm TCU and 7mm TCU. In that case the best solution was to anneal the cases AFTER reforming the necks, but before fireforming, so the softer brass would more reliably move out to form the little tiny shoulders. Like I said, it's a pretty standard operation, and really no more hassle than regular bullet seating once you have the seating die stem set to the right depth for the job. I know folks that go so far as seating bullets backwards so the heel engages the front of the rifling more reliably, but I've never had to resort to that.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    SwampView AK, Overlooking Mt. Mckinley and Points Beyond.


    The 9.3 x 62 headspaces on not very much shoulder at all. Even less than a 35 Whelen. I think sometimes, the firing pin is knocking the cases forward because there is a loose fit. (headspace)

    I dunno how that happened, oversizing or that way when you got the brass. Anyway, I'm guessing they don't fit YOUR rifle chamber.

    I'd listen to BrownBear, and seat some bullets as long as possible and fire-form the cases. I've never had to do that myself, but like he said, it's pretty common practice.

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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2006


    Had the same problems with a 243 improved. Starting seating the bullets further out till they engaged the lands then fire formed the brass. Never had a problem after that.

    I suspect the brass is made undersized (like most of it is) and this caused the problems. Brown bear is correct.

    This is another reason why it is so important only to resize cases enough to chamber.

  10. #10


    I have a good portion of this brass so I hate to not use it so I'll try the methods you guys have suggested. Another question is this: on the brass that didn't have any primer failures/primers backing out is this brass good to go or should I run this brass through the procedures you guys have listed? Just a side note, I have ordered some Hornady brass and keeping my fingers crossed this is of much higher quality and uniformity! There's always something isn't there? Thanks for the help. I'm looking forward to trying some new loads.

  11. #11


    Hi I had some problems with the Graf brass 9.3X62 brass. The least of which, it would not all fit in the shell holder. Some did, some did not.

    I ordered and used Norma and RWS brass, seemed to solve that problem.

    I had GRAF brass in 7.5 X55 split longitunely of first firing.

    I think the brass is suspect in your case. Reminds me of the adage of buy the best that you can afford. I really did not save any money and wasted a bunch of my time with that brass.

    Other lots of 7.62X54, 7.5X54, 6.5 arisaka seem to be fine for me so far.


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