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Thread: Building a rowing frame

  1. #1
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    Default Building a rowing frame

    Can you build a working 60 x 60 rowing frame cheaper than just buying it. I want to build one that I can break down and stow in a plane but also work on those three day weekends with the wife on the local floats as well.
    Thanks for any help you may have.

    Sweepint
    Wasilla, (when not overseas)
    '' Livn' The Dream ''
    26' Hewescraft Cuddy, twin 115 Yam

  2. #2
    Member anonymous1's Avatar
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    Default not cheaper

    My boys are fitting out a raft and we did a little research. If you know an electrician or somebody at a muffler shop you could bend up a custom fit for your raft that would probably fit better than a one size fits all NRS. We ordered on and are a little disappointed with the fit.
    Ran across these sites that may help:
    http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...er-raft-frame/

    http://www.theboatpeople.com/rafts_frames.html



    If you buy parts to make one you will probably find them cheaper here:

    https://www.cascadeoutfitters.com/index.cfm

    rather than directly from NRS

  3. #3
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    Default

    Yes, you can save money. I built my frame and am really happy with it. I used the NRS fittings. I got the tubes from alaska steel I think it was $80.00 for a 20' stick (use the anodized ones). I cut it with a chop saw and a carbide blade. I made my own seat mounts, I got the parts from Greer (I would recommend buying these though). I know someone with a pipe bender so he made my foot rest for me, if you don't have one you can always buy that piece and make the rest. If you have some specific questions PM me.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by akbigfish View Post
    Yes, you can save money. I built my frame and am really happy with it. I used the NRS fittings. I got the tubes from alaska steel I think it was $80.00 for a 20' stick (use the anodized ones). I cut it with a chop saw and a carbide blade. I made my own seat mounts, I got the parts from Greer (I would recommend buying these though). I know someone with a pipe bender so he made my foot rest for me, if you don't have one you can always buy that piece and make the rest. If you have some specific questions PM me.
    Great advise. The only thing that I would add is to get 1 1/4inch anodized pipe. As far as bending....try Cash Machine Welding

  5. #5
    webmaster Michael Strahan's Avatar
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    Default Possible, but research it first

    This is certainly doable, but I would advise doing your homework like you are. If you have to hire out your welding, bending, or other fabrication, you may spend more than you would with just a stock frame.

    Mike
    LOST CREEK COMPANY: Specializing in Alaska hunt consultation and planning for do-it-yourself hunts, fully outfitted hunts, and guided hunts.
    CLICK HERE to send me a private message.
    Web Address: http://alaskaoutdoorssupersite.com/hunt-planner/
    Mob: 1 (907) 229-4501
    "Dream big, and dare to fail." -Norman Vaughan
    "I have climbed my mountain, but I must still live my life." - Tenzig Norgay

  6. #6
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    Default Thanks Guys

    I have been able to take what has been said and further researched my options on this. I will be home in a few weeks and will get started on it straight away. I think i can pull this off on my rotation home so it will be ready when i get back again in June for the best part.

    Thanks again Travis

    Sweepint
    Wasilla, (when not overseas)
    '' Livn' The Dream ''
    26' Hewescraft Cuddy, twin 115 Yam

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sweepint View Post
    Can you build a working 60 x 60 rowing frame cheaper than just buying it. I want to build one that I can break down and stow in a plane but also work on those three day weekends with the wife on the local floats as well.
    Thanks for any help you may have.
    Yes and No. If you know exactly what works and you can build it right the first time then yes you can save mone. If it takes several design changes before its perfect then it may be hard to build it for less. One way I saved some money and lost some weight was by bending my corners instead of using fittings, using a smaller size pipe for the joint instead of fittings, and welding certain tubes. If you do not have access to a pipe bender and welder you may losse your savings quikly. My biggest regret is I did not use anodized tubing now evertime I touch the frame my hands become gray from the metal. I may paint the tubing to prevent this. Here are the costs of items I used to build my frame
    QTY ITEM $ EA $ TOTAL
    60 1 sch 40 pipe 3.90 234.00
    4 NRS frame fittings 17.95 71.80
    2 NRS oar stand 69.95 139.90
    2 NRS oar locks 24.97 49.95
    2 NRS spring set 1.97 3.95
    ? NRS straps ? 100.00?
    3 NRS low seat mounts 54.95 164.85
    2 ARK high seat mount 130.00 260.00
    2 cataract oar shaft 134.95 269.90
    1 carlilse 2 pc oar shaft 107.95 107.95
    2 NRS oar rights 22.37 44.75
    3 NRS oar sleeves 14.50 43.50
    2 cataract counter bal wt 34.97 69.95
    3 carlilse oar blade 64.00 192.00
    4 fish on seats 77.16 308.64

  8. #8
    webmaster Michael Strahan's Avatar
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    Default Pricing

    The OP asked about a 60 x 60 breakdown frame, and the cost-effectiveness of building vs buying. I don' know the size of the frame you built, but just the cost of your pipe, fittings and oar stands are higher than the retail cost of the NRS Longhorn frame. The Longhorn is simple, extensible, and packs nicely into the airplane even without the extra weight and cost of breakdown side rails.

    Something to consider. There are times when it really is cheaper to buy what is already made.

    Mike

    Quote Originally Posted by slow reflection View Post
    Yes and No. If you know exactly what works and you can build it right the first time then yes you can save mone. If it takes several design changes before its perfect then it may be hard to build it for less. One way I saved some money and lost some weight was by bending my corners instead of using fittings, using a smaller size pipe for the joint instead of fittings, and welding certain tubes. If you do not have access to a pipe bender and welder you may losse your savings quikly. My biggest regret is I did not use anodized tubing now evertime I touch the frame my hands become gray from the metal. I may paint the tubing to prevent this. Here are the costs of items I used to build my frame
    QTY ITEM $ EA $ TOTAL
    60 1 sch 40 pipe 3.90 234.00
    4 NRS frame fittings 17.95 71.80
    2 NRS oar stand 69.95 139.90
    2 NRS oar locks 24.97 49.95
    2 NRS spring set 1.97 3.95
    ? NRS straps ? 100.00?
    3 NRS low seat mounts 54.95 164.85
    2 ARK high seat mount 130.00 260.00
    2 cataract oar shaft 134.95 269.90
    1 carlilse 2 pc oar shaft 107.95 107.95
    2 NRS oar rights 22.37 44.75
    3 NRS oar sleeves 14.50 43.50
    2 cataract counter bal wt 34.97 69.95
    3 carlilse oar blade 64.00 192.00
    4 fish on seats 77.16 308.64
    LOST CREEK COMPANY: Specializing in Alaska hunt consultation and planning for do-it-yourself hunts, fully outfitted hunts, and guided hunts.
    CLICK HERE to send me a private message.
    Web Address: http://alaskaoutdoorssupersite.com/hunt-planner/
    Mob: 1 (907) 229-4501
    "Dream big, and dare to fail." -Norman Vaughan
    "I have climbed my mountain, but I must still live my life." - Tenzig Norgay

  9. #9
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    Default PVC

    I built a couple of frames out of 2 or 2.5" PVC, but if I did it again I'd use ABS. Electrical sweep elbows work well for dropping from the horizontal tubes down to the foot rest/platform. The platform was about 3' x 3'; I sat on a cooler. The whole thing, including a hinged floor, pinned together and I put it into a 205 on a fly-out once. Cheap, easy to work w/, and pretty tough. The problem w/ the PVC was that, after sitting outside in the Frb cold for several years, the fittings got brittle. I dropped it one day and shattered one. You have to sand the pipes down a tad where they enter the fittings, too, but that is pretty easy. All I can say is that I used these for several years and neither one failed, till they got brittle. If interested, PM me and I'll see if I can find any pictures of the frame. I never did take detailed pics; may even have a frame sitting in the shed. I made the oar locks out of steel pipe, etc. Not too hard, either. j

  10. #10
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    Default

    I bought an NRS frame right before moving up. Figured I'd rather drive the frame up than pay shipping. I did the research on building my own, and it just didn't seem worthwhile to build my own.

    I had NRS do a "semi-custom." I have a 14' self-bailer and was torn between the Outfitter for long multiday trips with a cooler and/or drybox and a Bighorn for day trips or when not carrying the cooler or boxes. I bought a Bighorn, but NRS cut the siderails to the longer length of the Outfitter. All I have to do now is buy two crossbars for when I want to go the Outfitter style. If I'd ordered a clamp-on seat mount instead of welded I would just need one more crossbar. If I remember right I did not have to pay extra to get the slightly longer side rails.

    My frame is a little wider than I would prefer. One of these days I'll cut it down. You could probably order a custom width from NRS pretty easily and maybe not even have to pay extra.

  11. #11
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    Default

    Duplicating the $385 (plus shipping) NRS Longhorn.

    40' 1.25" anodized = $160 (Last I heard aluminum is a little cheaper now)
    4 NRS frame fittings $72
    2 NRS oar stands $140
    1 Seat mount $55
    1 Low-Back seat $85

    Total = $512, plus shipping on all but the pipe.

    This doesn't get you a bent foot brace, but you don't really need one either.

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