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Thread: Cold starting Yamaha VK 540

  1. #1
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    Default Cold starting Yamaha VK 540

    Has anyone got any tips on getting a Yamaha VK 540 started below -25? I have a 2006 VK 540 with 1000 kms (great engine compression). I am 198 lbs and can hardly get it to turn over with the pull cord at colder temps with the spark plugs out! With plugs in there is no chance of turning it over let alone making it fire. I hear this is a great bush machine but I need some cold starting tips; otherwise its back to the snowshoes!
    Thanks

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    I've never seen a VK540 that wasn't electric start. Hmmm.

    I'd switch to synthetic oil. I'd try killing the engine with full choke. I'd get used to the idea that the first few pulls on the rope are only to loosen things up. I'd expect those pulls to be slow and stiff. Two or three pulls of the rope should make it easier to pull fast enough to start.

    Those tips apply to any 2-stroke snowgo in cold weather.

  3. #3

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    It should not be as difficult to pull over without the plugs as you describe.
    Maybe your recoil is binding.

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    There is no problem rope starting or electric starting once the beast is warmed up. It's that magic -25 and colder (-35 right now) where its a definate 'no go'. The electric start won't begin to turn it over even after a few pulls on the rope. I'm using a new battery in good condition but like any cold battery it's just a glorified pumpkin at these temps! I am using Shell Advance premium oil that has a pour point of below -40. May have to give the full sythetic "Ultra" a try.

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    I don't know what to tell you. I've never had a starting problem with my Vikings, and I've had two. I've never needed to start one in temps below -35F but they've started at that. Good luck with yours.

  6. #6

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    Have you ever pulled the starter and recoil? There might be some moisture mixed with oil, belt dust, and some rust, that is causing your problems a low temps?

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    Never have pulled them off, but it sure is worth a try once our temps. get out of the tank!

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    Take the battery inside with you at the end of the days run.
    Great spirits have always found violent opposition from mediocre minds. The latter cannot understand it when a man does not thoughtlessly submit to hereditary prejudices but honestly and courageously uses his intelligence. Albert Einstein

    Better living through chemistry (I'm a chemist)

    You can piddle with the puppies, or run with the wolves...

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    Default Same Problem Here

    I have a VK540 II that has the same problem, at -25 I can't pull it through. No way the electric will turn it. I solved it by getting a 2010 BearCat 570 XT. It pulls easily at -30, and starts in a few pulls. I'm watching for a solution for the Viking. Mine feels like the primary clutch is dragging.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AlaskaStinson View Post
    Mine feels like the primary clutch is dragging.

    While I know very little about Yamaha (the two of us do not get along well) if this were one of my Arctic CAt's or Polaris I would look closely at the clutch and/or belt after eliminating the recoil assembly. If -25 degrees is the only common factor the trouble must be with something shrinking or freezing i.e. rubber belt. I'd put a little oil in the cylinders and try to pull it over. This would eliminate the rings sticking or anything like that.

    Another thought: Is this machine water cooled? Is the water pump a direct drive that the pump turns every time the engine does? If it is, is the anti freeze frozen or slushy making the pump hard to turn?

    Just some thoughts.

    Dan

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    Back to the original question. In -35* I'll try to SLOWLY rotate any snowmachine engine with the pull rope to loosen things up before I'd even consider starting it. I would expect the pull resistance to be quite hard on the first rotation and it should ease a little with every rotation after that. With my Viking I'll do the exercise with the choke on to help prime the cylinders since the single carb strains to provide enough fuel when it's really cold. After 6-8 full pulls on the rope with no intention of pulling fast enough to try to start it, I'll bump the key start. If it sounds happy I'll start it with the key. If not? I'll try a fast tug on the rope. It has never taken more than a couple of pulls. I really would suggest you lose the mineral oil and switch to full synthetic. And be realistic about loosening the motor up before you expect to pull it hard enough to start. I doubt the plug removal is helping you because your problem isn't compression.

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    Your exact method of starting works well for me above -25. This last go-around at -35 was with plugs out and me pulling with all my body weight on the pull cord and it barely turned over. Not talking turning over slow, I'm talking about the cord coming out about a foot before stopping. Will try the fuel/oil mix down the holes to see if that loosens it up. Will also switch to sythetic. Never seen one this stiff before with the plugs out! Doesn't appear that the clutch or belt is hanging up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Icefrog View Post
    Your exact method of starting works well for me above -25. This last go-around at -35 was with plugs out and me pulling with all my body weight on the pull cord and it barely turned over. Not talking turning over slow, I'm talking about the cord coming out about a foot before stopping. Will try the fuel/oil mix down the holes to see if that loosens it up. Will also switch to sythetic. Never seen one this stiff before with the plugs out! Doesn't appear that the clutch or belt is hanging up.
    Use a good 0w-40 full synthetic oil. Amsoil has a good one and it has a -60* pour point. If wanting something a little heavier they carry a 10w-30 motor oil that has a -58* pour point.

    When researching an oil look at the CCS viscosity. The lower the number the easier it is to start in cold weather.

    Here is a link for info on Amsoil 0w-40. Pm me if interested in purchasing.

    http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aff.aspx

    Also here is a link to 0w-20 which has a -65* pour point and the CCS viscosity is even lower then the 0w-40. But this is a car engine oil not a powersports engine oil.

    http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asm.aspx

  14. #14

    Default Where do you live?

    This is simple!

    Pull the **** rope as hard as you can!

    Regardless how much resistance you may feel. You will swear the engine is frozen.

    If you pull the knot through the handle or break the rope, post it and/or PM me (it should not happen/put youíre back into it).

    Once you start pulling you cannot stop, that friction builds heat & it gets easier to pull.

    The machine you know & love will be a frozen monster at colder temps!

    Try -55 f with a 700 cc triple (see my other posts).

    When I first experienced this, I thought my engine was damaged because I couldn't get the pull rope to come out.

    I just returned from a trip 130 mile up the Salcha River near Fairbanks. The temps were around -40 one morning. The new 09 Bearcat required several (20) full stokes on the pull cord before the starter would crank the engine fast enough to start it.

    SNOWGO up girls!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dupont Spinner View Post
    Use a good 0w-40 full synthetic oil. Amsoil has a good one and it has a -60* pour point. If wanting something a little heavier they carry a 10w-30 motor oil that has a -58* pour point.

    When researching an oil look at the CCS viscosity. The lower the number the easier it is to start in cold weather.

    Here is a link for info on Amsoil 0w-40. Pm me if interested in purchasing.

    http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aff.aspx

    Also here is a link to 0w-20 which has a -65* pour point and the CCS viscosity is even lower then the 0w-40. But this is a car engine oil not a powersports engine oil.

    http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asm.aspx
    A VK540 is a 2 cylinder 2-stroke with oil injection. Interceptor oil would be the more appropriate choice. That's what I use in mine.

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    Pull and keep pulling don't stop till your arms are falling off.... If it doesn't start you will be warmed up.
    Tim

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Pid View Post
    A VK540 is a 2 cylinder 2-stroke with oil injection. Interceptor oil would be the more appropriate choice. That's what I use in mine.

    X2. The oils linked in the above post are good for four stroke machines but don't use these in a 2 stroke.

    Interceptor would be my first choice for 2 stroke recreational use.
    http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ait.aspx

    HP Injector is a good second choice for 2 stroke recreational use.
    http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/hpi.aspx

    Amsoil also has a racing 2 stroke oil called Dominator. Unless you are sno-cross, Iron Dog, or Iron Man racing then you probably don't need Dominator.


    Dan

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    Sorry I was thinking Venture not Viking.....Florida trip burned some brain cells over the holiday.

    Try the Intercepter.....I have it on bulk if interested. Pour point of -58*. Things are just going to be stiff to turn over but should still turn over to be able to start after 3 to 4 pulls.

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    Default Fired right up

    Now that its warmed up -10, the Viking fired right up and ran like a noisey kittten. I pulled it through a few times, and gave it a good tug (the battery is dead), my son said all it took was a big jerk....

  20. #20

    Default One Big Jerk

    OK OK, Iíll come over tomorrow and start it for you. I fit the description.

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