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Thread: Modifying the #9

  1. #1
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    Default Modifying the #9

    I have a few ideas/questions for modyfing the #9, but I am seeking the councel of others. So far placing the chain under the trap instead of on the side, and tack welding the metal that holds the coil springs in place. Am I off? What else? Thanks for the input.
    Stay out of the overflow and pray for snow.
    Smoke

  2. #2

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    I know the mannings are still here, well Ted is anyways...I think Ned is still around, not sure if he went south already....I think he'd be the guy to ask .

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    Do they read these threads, or do I need to call them?

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    Not sure what you are referring to about the chain coming off the end of the trap. All of mine have the chain coming off the center of the trap an ideal location for any trap. Maybe you have an older model? as to tack welding. The #9 is probably the strongest wolf trap out there and I have never seen one come apart. I would think you would be saving some work and $$ by leaving it be.
    meats meat don't knock it till you try it

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    I have one #9 that does not have the dbl laminate and on the bottom there is the number 434 stamped onto it. I believe this one to be fairly old. I just bought a new one and the chain placement is in the same place, opposite of the pan. Some guys I was talking to were saying that they were moving the chain so that it was in the center of the trap, on the bottom side, under the pan. That way when the wolf bolts, the trap and cahin would be in a straight line instead of at an angle from where the chain is currently placed. Thanks for the help.

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    Are there any other suggestions? Anything better than a number 9 or 114 for wolves? Anyone have much experience with mb750 or the Bridger #9?
    Stay out of the overflow and pray for snow.

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    lobo, I have used the MB750 wolf trap and the CDR 750 both are perfectly capable of holding wolves but both do not come through the amount of snow a #9 does. I actually sold my MB's as I did not like the trigger system on them I always felt like my hands where inside the jaws. I still have the CDR's I set them close to town and in areas where the snow is not so appt to build up over them. They are not a bad trap but they are not a #9. I also set them in places where I worry about someone coming along and helping me out not someothing that happens but I still worry in a few spots. I worry less about a $40 trap than a $140 trap
    meats meat don't knock it till you try it

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    The MB-750 is a great beaver trap. The mb-750 wolfer is a beaver trap with some stronger springs on it and lams added to it. They make one of the best beaver traps, but I feel it is a marginal wolf trap. If you talk to any serious wolfer they all say the #9 are the best. I have 8 of them and I can say that they are strong. They are not cheap by no means, but you get what you pay for. I have never used the CDR, but really like the mb-750 for beaver and my #9 for wolfes.

  9. #9

    Default The #9 and 114

    are the cream of the crop for wolf traps. I do not like the MB's at all. Anything bridger is a piece of crap for wolves as well as duke. I have had #9's break, but it is rare. I have one with a broken jaw and had a wolf "stretch the jaws upward so the bottom sides of the trap (where the jaws connect to) was pointing up. I took a rubber mallet and hammered it back down so the base plate was flat again. Usually it is caribou that will really put a beating on the traps. Have never had an issue where the chain is connected.

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    Sounds great, so another question, what is the difference between the Manning #9 and the Alaskan #9? (besides the price) thanks again and we are finally getting some snow!

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    Manning was the original name of the trap.

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    First Manning trap was built as a gag gift for a frend who was chaging jobs at ADF&G and was afraid it might impact his ability to work in the field. It was about 10 X 10 inch and powered by Polaris snowmachine bogie springs. That feller incurged Ned to perfect it a bit more and make it a legal 9 inch spread. Ned bought a Roper Whitney 6ton manul punch press and started making tooling for it in 1978. Ned moved from Barrow to Fairbanks in that year and it took a year for him to get far along enouf on a house so he could continue on wolf traps. About last of 79 he was satafied enouf with the ear desine to start making them. The first dozen went to a Bob Parakouskie who was traping down near Mikinley (Excuse my bad spelling) and consisted of 4 strate jaw, 4 offset jaw, and 4 offset with teeth. Can't rember what the 13th was as Ned always through in a extra if you bought a dozen, they were 20$ ea.
    Ned made traps till he was blue in the face, "He hates to make nore then one or two of aneything as it boores him to death". One day Ol Steave Tites showes up to Buy a snow hook sees the traps startes talking traping and in about 20 min. Ned selles him all tooling and stock on hand (except punch press) and Steave is in the trap bisness. Steave started the seral numbers and thinks Ned made maybe 10 - 12 dozen. A few years later Steave selles to Dean Wilson, and the traps realy took off. Now Dean realy liked making traps and got great plashure in holding up a finished trap and saying to hihself " That will hold a wolf". All the origenal traps Ned made were between 8&7/8 to 8&15/16 inch so aney Fish and Wildlife officer could easly see they were legal. they were made with jaws of hot rool flat bar 3/16 thick and had no seral #. Tites traps start Sn. 1 and soon had jaws of cold roll. Wilson traps, don't know Sn. start # but soon included a reinforsed jaw and renamed Alasken. Ned made another set of tools in 2003? and all traps made on that tooling is marked Manning, Corcorn and sons. Al? of the tanery in Fairbanks Bought out Wilson and at some time the regulation for 9" max OD was changed to 9" ID to allow for the reinforced Jaw. A few examples of a dogless Manning are known to exast. Can't tell you who came up with the center chain atachment, but it's a good thing. Thats all I know or can rember sept if youe trying to find a Manning in deep snow or frose down condishions with your skee pool it will be shorter when you find it.
    Carry vice grips and a stout screw driver IN YOUR POCKET whenever your working with Mannings, or in deep snow and without trap setters the cretters may find you in a trap.

  13. #13

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    great write up kmutie!

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    I'm new here and I just wonder how many of you wolfers have tried the MB750s and the bridger #5 wolf traps? I have trapped for just under 40 years and all my wolves were snared except for one that I fluked in a #1 and a half mink trap. This year I had a hard time to hold wolves in snares, seems like you just can't get good snare wire any more, it all comes from China. I had 10 wolves break my snares so I switched to traps and caught two but had 2 wolves pull out of the traps. It didn't take very long for those wolves to spread the word around to be xtream carefull, i didn't catch another one since. Hopefully by next winter they would of forgotten about traps. Dave

  15. #15

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    I am intereted in your snare stuff Dave...wire and cable info and where things broke.

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    X2 on TradBow's comment. Please post some details on the snare failures.

  17. #17

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    We started with 6 #9s 25 yrs ago and still have 4 although 2 need to get sent back to Al for some reworking. A wolverine hauling 1 off the 1st yr before I welded hooks and links shut , the other possibly a floater nabbed. I've never lost a wolf in a #9 but have had a few wolverine that hit a trail set climb a tree and spin themselves off minus a foot or toe. We tried the 750 and found it hard to keep working in this windy drifty country(hard to set as well) and the Bridger #5s have had 3 snapped trail sets with 0 wolves to date. On a recommendation we have 1/2 dz Sleepy Creek 4.5s that will be put in operation this Nov,stand by for full report!

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