Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Breakaway wolf snares

  1. #1

    Default Breakaway wolf snares

    I made a breakaway on a snare as prescribed by Alaska Trappers - 10.5 inches from end of cable, cut the cable and rejoin it with a double ferrule. This accomplishes two things. First, it weakens the snare to be able to break when a moose is caught. Second, it limits the size to which the snare can close to where it shouldn't hold a moose leg tightly, but still kill a wolf.

    So my two questions are - First, I atteached the snare to a cottenwood, and "caught" my 24" cresent wrench. After yanking on it perpendicularily from the tree, I was able to break it after several yanks. It seems to me that is more power than a wolf could exert, but after awhile I think a wolf could possibly break it. Also, the snare broke at the joint I made every time I tested it. Is there something the snare makers did to make their joints stronger than mine.

    Second, the loop made from 10.5 " is smaller than I would think needed to kill a wolf and much smaller than I would think for safely not catching a moose leg.

    Any toughts and especially real experience with this appreciated.

  2. #2

    Default Probably lies in

    the amount of pressure they used to press the ferrel. I am betting that they have some way of "measuring" the amount of pressure.

    I have never heard of one like that. I have heard where they were putting some type of cut in the snare lock itself so it would break after so much pressure exerted.

    I personally would not trust this set up unless I had the appropriate equipment to make sure the exact crimping, etc. was enough.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Bristol Bay


    Usually when making breakaway wolf snares most cut the lock from the gap to the hole with the stop on it with a hacksaw. This will allow a moose to pull it out but still hold a wolf, I wish I had a picture but don't. I know someone out there probably does. When connecting with a double ferrule I am not doing as you describe I am connecting 5-6 feet of cable to 5-8 feet of #9 wire. I leave a tail sticking out of the ferrule on the #9 that I bend back over the ferrule to keep from slipping back through the ferrule,snare cable is slick and that would explain the cable slipping through easily.

    If you skin out a wolf take a look at the neck most are not that thick now you have to constrict that neck to cut off the airway. That's why so small, on a pup in the fall I have seen there necks no larger than 3 inches in Dia.though I personally do not know anyone who is making breakaways as you described.
    If you are in Fairbanks on Januarey 16th ATA is putting on a snare building clinic check there web site for more info. you can also see a picuter of the lock cut as I am trying to describe here
    meats meat don't knock it till you try it

  4. #4
    Member dkwarthog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006


    The ATA Alaska Wolf manual has a bunch of info on those kind of breakaway snares...they should release at about 700-800 lbs of force according to Craig Gardner. I would think if you can break it by tugging on it with a cresent wrench, it would be too light and may not hold a wolf..

    I think you need to test the breakaway force for your ferrules and swager and then adjust until you get the right force with your setup...

    I think most guys prefer the cut locks like Northway said...


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts