Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Breakaway wolf snares

  1. #1

    Default Breakaway wolf snares

    I made a breakaway on a snare as prescribed by Alaska Trappers - 10.5 inches from end of cable, cut the cable and rejoin it with a double ferrule. This accomplishes two things. First, it weakens the snare to be able to break when a moose is caught. Second, it limits the size to which the snare can close to where it shouldn't hold a moose leg tightly, but still kill a wolf.

    So my two questions are - First, I atteached the snare to a cottenwood, and "caught" my 24" cresent wrench. After yanking on it perpendicularily from the tree, I was able to break it after several yanks. It seems to me that is more power than a wolf could exert, but after awhile I think a wolf could possibly break it. Also, the snare broke at the joint I made every time I tested it. Is there something the snare makers did to make their joints stronger than mine.

    Second, the loop made from 10.5 " is smaller than I would think needed to kill a wolf and much smaller than I would think for safely not catching a moose leg.

    Any toughts and especially real experience with this appreciated.

  2. #2

    Default Probably lies in

    the amount of pressure they used to press the ferrel. I am betting that they have some way of "measuring" the amount of pressure.

    I have never heard of one like that. I have heard where they were putting some type of cut in the snare lock itself so it would break after so much pressure exerted.

    I personally would not trust this set up unless I had the appropriate equipment to make sure the exact crimping, etc. was enough.

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Bristol Bay
    Posts
    328

    Default

    Usually when making breakaway wolf snares most cut the lock from the gap to the hole with the stop on it with a hacksaw. This will allow a moose to pull it out but still hold a wolf, I wish I had a picture but don't. I know someone out there probably does. When connecting with a double ferrule I am not doing as you describe I am connecting 5-6 feet of cable to 5-8 feet of #9 wire. I leave a tail sticking out of the ferrule on the #9 that I bend back over the ferrule to keep from slipping back through the ferrule,snare cable is slick and that would explain the cable slipping through easily.

    If you skin out a wolf take a look at the neck most are not that thick now you have to constrict that neck to cut off the airway. That's why so small, on a pup in the fall I have seen there necks no larger than 3 inches in Dia.though I personally do not know anyone who is making breakaways as you described.
    If you are in Fairbanks on Januarey 16th ATA is putting on a snare building clinic check there web site for more info. you can also see a picuter of the lock cut as I am trying to describe here
    http://www.trapperman.com/forum/ubbt...ml#Post1631371
    meats meat don't knock it till you try it

  4. #4
    Member dkwarthog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Mat-Su
    Posts
    2,150

    Default

    The ATA Alaska Wolf manual has a bunch of info on those kind of breakaway snares...they should release at about 700-800 lbs of force according to Craig Gardner. I would think if you can break it by tugging on it with a cresent wrench, it would be too light and may not hold a wolf..

    I think you need to test the breakaway force for your ferrules and swager and then adjust until you get the right force with your setup...

    I think most guys prefer the cut locks like Northway said...

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •