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Thread: Hard Starting Yamaha

  1. #1
    Member Xanfly's Avatar
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    Default Hard Starting Yamaha

    I have a '97 Mountain Max 600 that is extremely hard to start cold. At least 35-40 pulls everytime. Works great after the first start, but if it is not started for a couple days it is a killer.

    Anyone had this problem before or have any ideas on a fix.

    I had a guy that does work out of his house look at it but he wasn't any help.

    Thx Xanfly

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    Have you thought about adding a primer to it? or maybe an air leak in your fuel line is letting fuel drain back to tank after sitting for awhile.

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    Member greythorn3's Avatar
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    water in fuel?
    Semper Fi!

  4. #4

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    turn fuel line off when finished using for the day

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    Somebody on here once posted that shutting the (warm) engine down by putting on the choke made it easier to start the next morning. Doesn't seem to have much affect on my 01 Polaris 800 though. Mine doesn't take 35-40 pulls to start cold but even 15 is a **tch with a -10F 800 engine.

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    Possible crack in the rubber boot that goes from your carbs to the bottom end. It could be sucking air in instead of gas/air mixture. That is a three cylinder right, figure if only one would suck fuel that it would start fine. drain your carbs and see what they look like as well.

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    Member BAR300's Avatar
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    Default very common for yamaha's

    they are not fond of the cold, my old MM's would take 30-40 pulls in really cold weather, like 20 below it was a pain to start, great once you got them there, but man, you get out of breath trying to start the thing, not like my RMK at all.

  8. #8
    Member Xanfly's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input guys. Guess I need to go through the hoses and boots.

    BAR300, I know what you mean there. Cranked up my polaris for the first time this year the other day, 3 pulls and ready to go. Then pulled for 15 minutes on the Yamaha.

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    Default Hard starting

    I was reading some of the suggestions , I personall wouldn't use the choke to Kill , it tends to wash the oil of the cylinder wall .
    In your environment I would ,
    Use a fuel conditioner, OMC makes 2+4 Which I am very fond of . It deals with a number of issues, especially in cold weather.
    Shutting down I might fogg the engine, to ensure the highest compression when starting and preserving the engine when it is dormant for any amount of time.
    Check your engine while it is running from time to time in the dark looking for spark leaks along the spark plug wire, wd 40 helps keep the moisture away for a while and was a good starting aid , but don't use ether, engines seem to get addicted to it .
    Keep fuel levels up high . atmospheric moisture is drawn in during use and temprature changes, especially cooling off, hence the fuel conditioner.
    a full tank has less air space.
    Float needles tend to wallow out in the guide on some models I have even seen hair pass all the way through the fuel pump and carb.( long haired blond owned it )
    I had a fleet of equipment to care for, the first order of business was a leak down test( not a compression test) one can discover wher the weaknesses are with out dismanteling .
    Hope this helps .

  10. #10
    Member AKDoug's Avatar
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    Check your compression. A machine with worn out rings will exhibit those same symptoms.
    Bunny Boots and Bearcats: Utility Sled Mayhem

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    My MMs were sweethearts to start. The idea that Yamaha triples were hard starters is dead wrong. At least if they're maintained correctly. How many times has that machine seen a professional Yamaha mechanic in the past 13 years? It may be time. I'd find Danny Gueco in Wasilla if it was mine. He'd know what to do.

    The idea behind killing an engine with choke is to reduce the pull effort the following morning. Washing the oil off the cylinder walls is the point. It makes sense to those of us who occasionally get to pull start in -40 or colder. It also prevented old Mukuni round slide carb chokes from freezing. After a day of sucking snow dust they had a tendency to do that.

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    Default Washing the oil off

    I think I understand from your point of view , the oil being the culpret,(hard to pull) but from a service point of view it excellerates the wear on both the cylinder and rings, especily compression wise, thus the dificulty starting untill enough oil is thrown into the works to make it respond.
    I have seen compression tests that were impressive but upon open examination the piston was shot. every thing is relitive to the spin you put to it, that way .
    a leak down test, is proof positive, what where and how much of a seal is lost. a new engine just broke in leaks 10%, an engine with 300 hours or better is about 20%. 30% is livable but rarely can any thing be done externally to improve it perminantly. 40-50% it's serious .
    the air craft industry have been using the leak down test for a long time. there is no doubt about it's test results.
    If it is a 4 stroke listen to the intake and exhaust and crank case breather closely while doing the test , 2 stroke has the added problem of seals in the crank case that are an integral part of the carb system .

  13. #13

    Default "Smart Carbs" on the 97 600's

    I agree with Mr. Pid!
    You have the Yamaha Smart Carbs on that 600. My 97 700 did not. Know a guy at work that had em & had nothing but troubles. Sold it & bought a 2000 700 Mmax, never had another problem.

    Good luck.

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