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Thread: Recurve VS. Long Bow

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    Default Recurve VS. Long Bow

    I'm starting out in traditional archery and not sure witch type of bow to go with. I want something that I will be able to moose hunt and bear hunt with. I thinking of goining with a 55lb bow I just dont know witch type is better suited for large game. OR does it even make a difference wether its a long bow or a recurve.

    Any feed back would be greatly appreiciated!

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    Member jakec5253's Avatar
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    Default recurve vs long bow

    Check out the traditional archery thread a few lines down, if you can make it to one of their get togethers, I bet some of them would let you try out some bows to see which you like better. I am not a great trad archer by any means, but I recommend starting at a lower pound bow, and working up to 55lbs. There is a big difference between compounds and trad bows, no let off. I shoot a compound at 65lbs, and also have a 40lb recurve for small game/stump shooting. I shot one of my dad's 55lb recurves, and was amazed at how much harder it was to draw and hold while aiming. I think a lighter draw weight would be better for learning proper form. Good luck and have fun, I didn't know how frustrating archery could be until I got the recurve.


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  3. #3

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    there is 3 main differences.

    the big one....

    one is center shot one is not

    next, the grip

    lastly how the bow stores energy. Some longbows are just as quick as many recurves these days so this point is almost nil.


    centershot or the lack there of can make tuning more difficult for some. A non centershot bow is more picky of that perfect arrow spine. It'll take a little more to find. That said most longbows are easier to shoot if you dont go to short! Dont look past the fact that some recurves are more related to a longbow with bent tips due to the bow not being center shot (saxton recurves being one).

    Grips can be a issue with some. The recurve pistol grip is usually an easier transition from wheels to sticks. I dont shoot a recurve grip like most compounders grip there bows...prefering a high wrist asbell sytle more then a medium wrist like most shoot them. but to each there own.

    MOST (read NOT ALL), longbows are a heel down affair. It's really not an issue and is easily more comfortable with a heaiver bow. A slight locator grip puts your hand in a more natural position imho and is easier to duplicate then a straight or dished hill style grip. Not that either of these are bad or uncomfortable. Consistency with a longbow usually revolves around the grip itself (once the bow is tuned) and most minor flaws will come back to this for whatever reason.

    Lastly, just because you pick up a stickbow...dont forget form. Take the time to tune, and realize you need to practice...a lot, to learn and maintain! It's a blast, and if you're a bit stubborn you wont regret it, but I didnt say the road was an easy one to walk! If you hunting is wrapped up in numbers and scores, this is probably not the weapon for you!

    Good luck!

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    Default

    Thank you for the feed back, I'll take it to heart and put it to use.

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    So what poundage would you recomend for moose and bear hunting?

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    Smile bearsnmoose

    Bowhunter, hunting with a traditional bow and being proficient is a much longer and more disipined road than wheelie bows. This is not a judgement just an obsevation. To be good enuf to hunt for big game I would recomend starting with a light weight bow in the 40 to 45 lb range to develope your muscles, muscle memory and good form. The biggest mistake people consistantly make when learning to shoot a bow is to try and hit something or be accrurate. Develope good form first and the accuracy will be there on it's own. The next thing is , you need to tune the bow and the arrows to you the individual. This is, as they say, much easier said than done. It is not to long of a road but it does take patience.

    The resource that helped me the most is the web site www.tradgang.com .

    The people on there (tradgang) will help without judging and are very generous with their knowadge, and, ANYTHING you want to know about traditional archery can be found or answered there.

    That said,.... I shoot a recurve that is somewhere between 55 and 60 lb draw and I feel comfortable hunting any animal on this continent, big or small. Accuracy, shot placment, tuned equipment, and a SHARP broadhead are much more improtant then large numbers in draw weight. Lots of people hunt deer and bears with 40 and 45lb bows.

    Feel free to contact me also if you would like, I won't profess to be an "expert" but I do know a few things and can point you in (what I feel) is the right direction.

    JMHO

  7. #7

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    I have the 57 lb longbow and my dad shoots a 55lb recurve. I shoot longbows and recurve bows almost every day. If you are coming from a compound background I promise you will like a recurve with a good sturdy grip at first. Longbows are very very light and harder to get used to for a lot of people. I myself have fallen in love with my longbow and thats why I use it.

    Whatever rout you go have fun and get some flu flu arrows too! elitearchery do a google search on them and buy your wood arrows from them if you do not make them yourself. They have done me up proud and make a heck of an arrow.

  8. #8

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    that was the first bear there when I was 15. The skinned out one is my biggest bear at 19 5/16 inches.

  9. #9

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    bh...flu flus for? really the only place they are really needed is shooting up into the air. (grouse in tree's, aireal discs). Personally I'd save the money up front..you can stump with regular arrows, which is better practice for a bowhunter. Flu flu's can be fun though. Just curious as I hear a lot recommend them.

    As for what weight. Like what was said..shoot what you can shoot comfortably.

    You'll need a 50 pounder for a moose so keep that in mind. But if you cant handle it..you cant, dont force it. You'll get there soon enough. Bad form and possible injuries are a real issue if you are over bow'd (ie torn rotator cuffs, elbow, wrist and major form problems). Most of these muscles you rarely use..including shooting a compound.

    Personally I shoot 60lb longbows up to 65lbs. My go to bows are all 60 and when I'm feeling spunky I have one that is 70. Sure makes the 60 feel like a toy.

  10. #10
    Member Rick P's Avatar
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    Bowhunter89 is a dang fine bird hunter with the longbow as well!

    Can't add too much but I'll restate a few things and contribute a bit of my own. OK the Dept of F&G lists 50# as the minimum peak draw weight for Moose, Brown Bear, Mountain Goat and Bison. 40 for all other big game, my bows all range between 40 and 55 pounds. I think your coming from the compound world? To make your transition from the dark side to the forces of light easier I would recommend a pistol griped recurve, in this case a medium length 40-45 pound recurve, like a mid 70's Kodiak hunter. The bow will be forgiving enough to keep you interested in getting in the needed practice and give you a shot at black bears or deer next season. It will also make a great small game bow when your ready to move on.


    Next I'd start shooting every trad stick you can get your hands on! When most folks start looking at a heavier bow they are looking for the "go to bow" for the rest of there hunting career. Who knows you may find a love for the long bow, I and many others sure have! Or hunting big game with vintage recurve bows might be your bag, been there a few times too. You can even get very techy with trad bows like the black swan or Mr. Harrison's carbon fiber designs.

    I make long bows, collect vintage hunting recurves and hunt/shoot both but if I were starting all over I think the one thing I'd do differently is buy about twice as many as I own now and include more hybrids!..........

    Shot a Toelke whip the other day...........if you hear of one needing a home?
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  11. #11

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    Rick..maybe we SHOULD forwarn him now about the buying every bow in site deal LOL! It's a shame I'm having to sell some I've had for a LONG time. That's about to end though, new job starting monday woot woot!

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    Member Rick P's Avatar
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    There are ways of reining in that addiction, besides I'm not sure it hits everyone......most folks actually have less than ten bows! Can you imagine? Less than 10! You get more selective and only make a run at the good ones you see after a while.

    Congrats on the new job! Now you can replace the bows you sold with the ones you really wanted in the first place.


    Any line on that Toelke?.............Did I check E Bay yet today?
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    Great Info, I dont want to sound like I know every thing about traditional archery because I dont , like I said I'm just starting out, I know little to nothing at all,but I have been bowhunting since I could walk. I have gone and tried out a few recurve bows and 55lbs didnt seem to bad, I curently shoot 70lbs Mathews with now problem. I do under stand that there are different muscle used in both compound and traditional archery.

    Really glad to see people passionate about there sport.

  14. #14
    Member Rick P's Avatar
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    Passionate ya that's one way to put it.............

    I think Tracy said something more like "full goosed bozo" or "completely flippin nuts" but passionate has a better ring to it.


    Changing my recommendation to a 55 pound recurve........on second thought with your experience level going directly "top shelf" to a Toelke, Fedora, Shrew or Harrison hybrid with a high indexing grip might be more your ticket.
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    Default my opinion

    I have been shooting a compound since 1988 and just last year i bought a inexpensive recurve at 50lbs 28 inch draw, I love it. Since then I bought a black widow at 51 lbs plus or minus 1 lb, i i just bareshaft tuned it and it shoots great. I love it more then my compound bow. I agree with low poundage for form and my coumpound was set at 75 and I lowered it to 61 lbs. I would suggest the same start low and work your way to a higher poundage if you desire. I picked 50 cause I cant hunt with it for bigger game and with a 575 grain arrow I get good penetration and a pretty fast arrow.

  16. #16

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    lol Rick....I think I could sell quite a few more and still be over 10 .

    So whats the deal, have you bought the toelke YET? or do I need to get in a bidding war with ya haha.

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    Member Rick P's Avatar
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    Tracy and I have reached an agreement on that. I can buy all the bows I want or get my freighter canoe this spring..........I think I can put off bow purchases for say 4-6 months. That would be about the same length of time it takes me to find to Toelke I want.....or the 67 1/2 super K.....or the 67 palomino.....or the 67 super mag.....or the 75 super K....or the 67 Kodiak special.....or the 75 Griz.........


    Hey there is a signed Fedora 560 on the auction site! Better act now!
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    Talking

    Rick, have told yourself , "I can quit anytime I want" ?

    Maybe you need to start thinking about AA, or maybe there needs to be an intervention?





    ( AA = Archers Annonomoose)

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    Member Rick P's Avatar
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    If I had a dime for everything I said "I can quit anytime I want" I wouldn't have to worry about making and selling longbows for money to get vintage bows ever again! I've decided to take the Hunter S Thompson approach to my bow addiction and just "see where the ride takes me." Besides an intervention might keep the "bow fairy" out of Homer.





    OK I have to say it! I have a good friend whose family held an intervention for him.......he moved to Alaska and now has about 75 more Bears than he did when he left the lower 48!
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    The 3 fold way: Every step we take as we walk through life effects, our family, our comunity and ourselves. One should walk thoughtfuly.

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    I personally feel like a recurve is easier and somewhat smoother to draw and shoot. But i shoot a longbow. I like my pops recurve and just drew a blank on the name. I just personally like the feel of my longbow better. A little 'rougher' but i love it. My 2 cents

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