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Thread: I'm not nuts, really

  1. #1
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    Default I'm not nuts, really

    I got a great deal on a 16' aluminum riveted boat, but found out that the good deal was because the rivets that were used in some previous repairs were not sealed and thus, I got a bathtub waiting to happen if I put it in the water. So my crazy idea is this: the boat is going to have one utilitarian purpose for shot range fishing (Halibut and Salmon close to shore), could I get away with using a bedliner material for the exterior?

    I know it sounds nuts and it's going to look hideous, but I'm really more interested in the boat being safe and willing to sacrifice the looks in order to acheive that. I also know that I'll be creating more drag, but like I said, it's going to be short-range and just for picking up 'but and salmon and maybe some shrimp/crab close in to Whittier.

  2. #2

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    Wouldn't the bedliner material be better off applied to the interior?

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    Member Rod in Wasilla's Avatar
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    Probably not a good idea. The bedliner material would have way too much drag in the water. Even a small amount of marine growth can cause excessive fuel consumption and even prevent a boat from planing. And for the price of the bedliner I would think you could have the rivets repaired.
    Quote Originally Posted by northwestalska
    ... you canít tell stories about the adventures you wished you had done!

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    Default Not nuts but a little nieve...

    Good point on the rivits being repaired... I would do the interior but there's so much stuff in the way and the aluminum is thin-wall, more of a river boat grade but is definately a lake/salt water boat... anyone wanna buy a project boat? )

  5. #5

    Default two part epoxy

    You might be able to totally coat the inside with two part epoxy. WEST System, and sevearal other brands, are widely available. Not sure that I have ever heard of anyone repairing a riveted boat this way, but you might check it out.

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    Member Dirtofak's Avatar
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    Default

    Undercoating will add too much weight.

    Try tightening the lose ones. If not drill out the bad rivits. Buck in some new ones. If you think the holes are elongated you may want to add a small washer and put a long lasting rtv in the hole before bucking. You might be out $30. It might take 2 people. If the marine places don't have rivits try the aircraft place at Merrill Field.

    If you have an area that is leaking or need an emergancy patch try a piece of Blue Skin roofing material. Warning, it does not come off easily.

  7. #7
    Moderator JDM's Avatar
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    Talking rivet repairs...

    Lots of options, but have found the two most effective ways in my experience to be:

    Z-Spar...a 2 part epoxy/patch system that will not only plug the rivet holes, but have used it for major gashes in the bottom of the boat due to rocks and shallow water...mixes and adheres/cures under water so no time is lost on the cure process. If the hole(s) are large, some flashing or sheet metal (coffee can flattened, pop/beer cans, etc) is used as a patch and the z-spar applied to both sides and between....extreme example.

    Silicone caulking can be applied to rivets in place or...drill out the existing rivets and replace rivets, applying silicone caulk in the rivet hole prior to compressing the rivet.

    These are both tried, tested and true ways the we repair holes and rivets in heavily abused river boats every year.

    May sound silly but both work very well and cost is not much of a factor...

    J

  8. #8
    Member bkmail's Avatar
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    Default Rhino Line it!

    My father had an 18' Lund that had leaky rivets. He rhino lined the entire bottom w/a thin coat and it worked perfectly. NO, it does not add that much drag, in fact, think of it like a golf ball flying through the air and it will make sense.
    The boat is now owned by a friend and we use it on the kenai every summer w/a 35 horse pushing it. NO NOTICABLE difference in fuel consumption, speed, planing ability, etc... I think you are on the right track, assuming the rivets are in place and you are not trying to fill a bunch of holes where they are missing.
    Another effect it had was to deaden the sound, even though it was on the exterior, it was a quiter boat as it absorbs some of the "tinny" noises a thin walled aluminum boat makes.
    BK

  9. #9

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    And there you have it... a real life experience. Hard to beat that, even if it didn't agree with my idea.

    I'm assuming applying it very thin would be the trick.

  10. #10

    Question probably work , easier than figureing out this new posting This is why I left

    Ya that will work ok... I know a couple guys that did it for the same reason ... The big chalenge tho is getting it inside where its NICE and WARM so you can prep it well . and give the stuff plenty of time to cure befor putting in out in the cold......I wonder if epoxy would stick to it .. It should .. that way you could make it slick as a whistle....... Let us know how it works .....I,ve got one to do myself........
    Quote Originally Posted by Back Country Robb View Post
    I got a great deal on a 16' aluminum riveted boat, but found out that the good deal was because the rivets that were used in some previous repairs were not sealed and thus, I got a bathtub waiting to happen if I put it in the water. So my crazy idea is this: the boat is going to have one utilitarian purpose for shot range fishing (Halibut and Salmon close to shore), could I get away with using a bedliner material for the exterior?

    I know it sounds nuts and it's going to look hideous, but I'm really more interested in the boat being safe and willing to sacrifice the looks in order to acheive that. I also know that I'll be creating more drag, but like I said, it's going to be short-range and just for picking up 'but and salmon and maybe some shrimp/crab close in to Whittier.

  11. #11
    Member Rod in Wasilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkmail View Post
    My father had an 18' Lund that had leaky rivets. He rhino lined the entire bottom w/a thin coat and it worked perfectly... NO NOTICABLE difference in fuel consumption, speed, planing ability, etc...
    Wow- That really surprises me. I'm still not sure I believe it, but it may work. But some people tell me I've been wrong before. Though I'm not sure I believe them either...
    Quote Originally Posted by northwestalska
    ... you canít tell stories about the adventures you wished you had done!

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    Default Gonna JUST DO IT

    You all have been very helpful and now I'm commited to trying out my idea. I've got a good friend with an auto body repair shop and a paint booth for the project... just gotta get those silly cars out of the way first...

    I'm thinking I'll use Whittier for the maiden voyage: rockfish and some winter kings... hmmmmmm......

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    Default Justified

    www.speedliner.com

    Found a website that justifies the bedliner material on the exterior of the boat; going to try it and I'll let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for all the feedback and hopefully I'll have something positive to report on my venture.

  14. #14
    Member Rod in Wasilla's Avatar
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    Good luck Robb. Let us know how it goes. My brother has a boat he might be interested in doing if it works out.
    Quote Originally Posted by northwestalska
    ... you canít tell stories about the adventures you wished you had done!

  15. #15

    Default

    Robb, if you do replace any of the real bad rivets, don't use silicone. It doesn't have the adhesion, the rivet will eventually leak. Of course your bedliner trick will probably prevent that anyway... but 3M 5200 Marine Sealant is the thing to use. Available at most hardware stores... Also you porbably know this if you're doing this project with a body shop expert- Prep the aluminum extra well. Like vigorous scrubbing with strong detergent, mineral spirits, etc. You might even consider etching it with DuPont 225S which you should be able to find at Merrill Field also. Your liner stuff will stick like a bad reputation. Good luck! WW

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    Member akjw7's Avatar
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    Default

    There might be some interior guys that can speak to this, because I've heard of it being done up here to actually improve performance. Something about a less than smooth surface breaking surface tension easier and allowing quicker planing...like Rod said, don't know if I believe it!

    I've seen a small jon boat with this on the bottom and the stuff bubbled and peeled off in huge chunks. Maybe it was cheap stuff, maybe it wasn't applied right, who knows...but make sure you do whatever tedious steps are necessary to prep it properly!

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    Default

    Bucked rivets expand while being driven. I wouldn't automatically assume they'll leak since they have to sealer. My airplane floats were just rebuilt and I specifically asked the repair center if they sealed each rivet. They looked at me like I was crazy. Well, stupid, actually. Their answer was NO.

  18. #18
    Member fshgde's Avatar
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    Default boat coatings

    Rob

    I used to spray bedliners and have sprayed about a dozen leaking boats.
    the main problem is poor adhesion to boat bottom. The only way I would spray one is to have it sandblasted, and spray a pure polurea smooth on the bottom and up about 4 inches on sides. bedliner material is usually a hybrid material. A company that sprays urethane insulation and roof coatings may be your best bet. My personal boat has this system, and has lasted for about 5 years with a few gouges filled in with the
    urethane they use for installing car winshields. any questions send me a
    pm Brian

  19. #19

    Default save your money

    when a rivet loosens the stress that it was holding moves on to the next rivets above and bellow. So by rhino lining you are not taking care of the real problem stress, the leak is a result of this. So if you are going to rhino line I would first suggest that you fix the real problem then rhino line. A few years back I did a 24 foot flat bottom that with the plug out and two pumps working on step the boat filled with water. It took two days to repair and reset all of the rivets in the boat, on the next trip the only water that was in the boat was from all the rain.
    I built Semi trailers so have done millions of rivets bucking and setting, your buddy with the shop has a compresser and air hammer I would be willing to teach you how to set and buck rivets so that the problem is solved way too easy. I don't think that we had $40.00 into the whole boat.
    Contact me if you want to learn and save some bucks.
    Andy 745-Amen(2636)

  20. #20
    Member breausaw's Avatar
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    Default everything but the bed

    A neighbor sandblasted his entire truck and sprayed it with bed liner material. I know itís not a boat, but he also was able to set the sprayer so the finished product had a smooth finish. The only place he didnít spray was the bed, go figure? You canít really tell that the truck is sprayed in this stuff unless you knew, so when applies right the drag should me minimal.

    Jay

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