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Thread: Assistance Needed.....

  1. #1

    Default Assistance Needed.....

    I have been out of the archery game for about 15 years and have decided to start shooting again. But I am confused. I shot 2219 arrows back in the day, and now they seem to be only for crossbows. What is up with the new number system (300 - 500)? Also, I have a bunch of arrows that need new vanes/feathers. How do I tell if they are Right or Left hand, or does it matter. I have shot easton xx75 arrows and would like to keep things the same.

    Thanks for your help.


  2. #2
    Moderator AKmud's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Wasilla, Alaska, United States


    The numbering system is new but similar to the old numbers, it simply coincides with the spine of the arrow. Google arrow shaft spine chart and you should find something quickly to explain the numbers you will need for whatever # bow you shoot.

    Keeping things similar to what you have shot in the past is convenient, but you should give the new carbon arrows a try. You will be quite impressed how much better they are over conventional aluminum shafts. The saying goes...Carbon arrows are either straight or broken. No more dents or bent arrows and they are tough as nails.

    If you are shooting compound, don't worry about the RH/LH fletching, just get some Blazer vanes, an Arizona EZ fletch (straight) and some Fletch-tite, you will be up and running in no time.

    The porcupine is a peacful animal yet God still thought it necessary to give him quills....

  3. #3


    You can still buy 2219's. I think Cabelas has the best price for a dozen but you can get them from several sources. Some of the local shops have them or can order them. I think the new 300-500 refers to deflection. 300 is about a 2317. Looking down the shaft from the nock end: left wing feathers have the quill foot on the right side and helical counter clockwise down the shaft, right wing quill foot left and helical clockwise.

  4. #4


    Thanks for the posts. This is going to give me something to do this winter.

    What about broadheads? What is everyone shooting these days. I shot Satellite Titians, but in searching for them, they seem to have gone by the wayside also...

    Thanks Again,

  5. #5
    Member Marc Taylor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Anchorage, AK


    And if you FOB them shafts, you won't be refletching them constantly. But you can't FOB aluminum. Carbon only. Echo the carbon-over-aluminum sentiment.

    Anymore, a guy who shows up with the oldschool aluminum arrows... Well... I won't hurt anyone's feelings. Truth is they just don't last as long or fly as well.

    Check out FOBs here:



  6. #6


    As far as broadheads go, there are many good ones out there, you just have to weed your way through them all to find what's best for you. I've gone from Muzzy 125 grainers to Grizz Trick 100 grainers to what I use know, 100 gr Shuttle T-Locks. Agree with Taylor on the FOBS, once you go FOB you will not go back to fletchings.

  7. #7


    ummm...unless I've been buying rt helical feathers for the last 18 years un intentional....the left wing feathers I have have the feathers on the left side of the quill as you are looking from the nock to the point. I know I havent fletched them backwards LOL!!!

    Really if you buy a straigh helical jig you can just off set (or straight if you prefer that) and buy whatever is convenient as long as all 3 are like...(ie rights or lefts but not mixed), and you can still off set vanes a couple degrees to help if you prefer to shoot real bh's and not mechanicals.

    Carbon arrows are or can be just as crooked as any alum, and you'd be suprised how many are just waiting to snap. I tried gt's for a little while and came back around to my woods. They are definatly convenient and for the prices I'm hearing about I might consider buying some as small game/stumping arrows.

  8. #8


    {left wing feathers have the quill foot on the right side = the left wing feathers I have have the feathers on the left side of the quill}

    I have personally psycho analyzed all of my carbons and don't think any of them are just waiting to snap.

    Carbons are definitely superior to wood and aluminum now. The cheaper carbons are not as durable. There are multiple choices. I prefer Carbon Express Heritage because I can still get a heavy arrow. I shot 805 grain arrows out of a 58# Black Widow this year. I only broke one CS arrow after it bounced off my target frame and landed crooked in the wood pile. I've dug several out of stumps and trees without a scar. I shot selfbows and ash arrows for 15 years before I tried carbon. Quality carbons are tougher.

    That being said I plan to hunt next year with a selfbow and hickory or cane arrows again because it's fun. Bowhunting is not always about the fastest, toughest, or most expensive.

    Welcome back and good luck.

  9. #9


    hmm...thought I was missing something there lol..even grabbed an arrow to make sure I wasn't loosing my mind haha.

    I have had some carbon shafts crack and not break, have seen some around like this also, still being shot before they were noticed. I think for the most part you are right, they are either shooters or they are broke...but there is always a few around that a cracked that go unoticed, atleast from my limited experience with them. I was (along with my x), shooting gold tips and these were what I had seen crack however were not broke, and not from more then normal shooting. I suppose enough people shoot them it's bound to happen, but dang it why do I always come up with the short stick on things shew LOL!!!


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