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Thread: Espar Airtronic Heater question

  1. #1

    Default Espar Airtronic Heater question

    Those of you with the D2 or 4 airtronic heater installed on your boat has the combustioin air been ducted to the exterior of the boat? I've seen this done both ways and I'm interested in your comments.

  2. #2
    Member spoiled one's Avatar
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    I believe mine is draws from the outside. I ahve had zero issues with the D4. Great unit. The webastos also deserve a look. They look very similar to the espars.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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    Member kaisersosei's Avatar
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    Default I have installed 2 units in my shop

    and both have been routed to the outside for combustion air. The best spot for this on these boats happened to be through the bulk-head between cabin and cockpit and right under the gunwale on the starboard side. Be warned it is a bit noisy especially at night anchored up in a cove without a silencer. A whooshing sound from the heater.

  4. #4

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    I have the D4 and combustion air is drawn from the outside. Heated air is recirculated cabin air. The heater works great, i use it most of the time. Over the course of 6 years I have not had any issues with it except for 1 time when the "brain" fried, unfortunately it happened on a deer hunt in early November.

  5. #5

    Default exhaust noise

    So it sounds like exhaust noise may be a problem, is that inside or out side noise. Would you all install a muffler? I rarely spend the night in a harbor almost always in a nice quiet cove. I spent one night in a cove with another boat that made a whinning type noise, makes me wonder if it might have been heater noise.

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    Member spoiled one's Avatar
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    There is an audible noise with my unit, but it is not bad and does not wake any of us up. My kids are light sleepers, too.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

  7. #7

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    I have a D4 in my boat and most of the noise you here is from the fuel pump.
    My buddy has a wabosto and it's the same thing

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    Member Gundog's Avatar
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    What is the cheapest source to buy a good diesel heater kit with the defrost ducts?

    Mike

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    Default Looking for a heater that works in all conditions

    I've tried three different Wallace heaters and all of them quit the first year of use, I find that if you run in rough water a lot they suck in salt water and quit.

    If you put a clam shell over them they suck in exhaust.

    Does the espar heater have separate exhaust and intakes ? If so you could cover the intake with a clam shell and not have a water or exhaust problem.

    Is there a dealer in anchorage ? How much ?

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    Member spoiled one's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain T View Post
    I've tried three different Wallace heaters and all of them quit the first year of use, I find that if you run in rough water a lot they suck in salt water and quit.

    If you put a clam shell over them they suck in exhaust.

    Does the espar heater have separate exhaust and intakes ? If so you could cover the intake with a clam shell and not have a water or exhaust problem.

    Is there a dealer in anchorage ? How much ?
    Sounds to me like the intake/exhaust was not installed properly. When I had my wallas heater (1300), we made sure that we put a bend up at the outlet so that any moisture would drain down and out of the boat instead of back to the heater. Could this be the issue?

    As far as the espars go, the exhaust and combustion air are separate. You should be able to get a pdf of a manual on line if you want to see install diagrams. Here is one link: espar

    They have a directory of dealers, too.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by spoiled one View Post
    Sounds to me like the intake/exhaust was not installed properly. When I had my wallas heater (1300), we made sure that we put a bend up at the outlet so that any moisture would drain down and out of the boat instead of back to the heater. Could this be the issue?

    As far as the espars go, the exhaust and combustion air are separate. You should be able to get a pdf of a manual on line if you want to see install diagrams. Here is one link: espar

    They have a directory of dealers, too.
    I did have the intake/exhaust mounted with a 6 inch bend up, but when I'm taking 6 and 7 foot waves on that side it just pounds the water all the way into the heater. There's really nowhere to mount it that it won't get hit pretty hard in rough conditions, Thanks for the link on the Espar heaters I'm looking into them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain T View Post
    I did have the intake/exhaust mounted with a 6 inch bend up, but when I'm taking 6 and 7 foot waves on that side it just pounds the water all the way into the heater.
    That doesn't sound like much fun no matter which heater you have! That espar has been bullet proof so far. The wallas heaters are toys in comparison.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

  13. #13
    Member Mort's Avatar
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    Glacier Craft does Espar installations in Anchorage, even on boats they don't build.

    By the way, when I asked about the Espar warranty, he said they had one but wasn't sure how it compared with others since he had never had to do any warranty repair on a single Espar unit.

  14. #14

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    GC installed the Espar on my Seasport as well as new Furno GPS/Radar/Depthfinder and davit/winch. I saw 1 Espar returned for service that he sent to WA for repair (water in diesel and caboned up combustion chamber) and when mine crapped out he never returned my calls...I pulled the heater and sent it to Boat Electric in SEA for repair. There is an electronic hand held device that is used to determine the operating history/problem with the Espar. I thought about buying one but I think it was ~$200 which is too much. There was suppose to be someone in ANC that was going to start servicing them, but with them being so dependable I don't think it woulod be worthwhile.

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    I just rebuilt me webasto exhaust, looking at the diagram from there installation instructions not only are you supposed to put an upward bend in the line, they required a 3/16" hole be drilled into the stainless line. (at the lowest point)thought that was rather interesting since the line is covered with a heat protecting sleeve.
    I can see having the hole there to allow any possible water that could get in the line to escape. But then you have a hole in your exhaust line.

  16. #16

    Default intake fitting

    What type thru hull fitting is being used for the combustion air duct on the espar D4 heater. I looked at one GC boat with a D4 installed and the combustion air was ducted to the inside of the boat. Seems to me it should come from outside. Therefore I would like some ideas for the proper fitting.

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    I don't have a boat, per se, but I DO have an Airtronic-D2 "cab heater", self-installed in my typical Explorer-brand van conversion. Yes, indeed, these Airtronic's put out an incredible amount of NOISE(!!!), if NO muffler is installed, that is. This noise is especially loud during the initial "fire-up" period. It sounds like a Venus-probe rocket launch!! This noise is experienced only from the OUTSIDE of the boat, RV, truck, or whatever one might have it installed in. It is NOT loud from INSIDE whatever "cabin" space one happens to be discussing. So, to wit, an EXTERNAL muffler must be installed at the end of the (flexible metal) exhaust tube. Do NOT install those TINY/useless "mufflers" sold by Airtronic company proper. Instead, install, for example, a Briggs & Stratton Model 291519 (big-commercial-grade-golf-course) LAWN MOWER muffler, which is $34.89 at <mfgsupply.com>, who sells it as their Model #18-8942 replacement muffler. Indeed, that is what I have on the end of MY Airtronic-D2. It works great. By the way, these Airtronics are so loud, that Airtronic itself even sells a muffler for the (flexible-plastic) outside-air-INTAKE tube!! But, I have no problem with THAT particular noise, which is merely a low-volume, hi-pitch, whine of sorts, which, to me, does NOT need a "muffler". Note, however, that said Briggs & Stratton muffler must be ADAPTED to fit the Airtronic's (flexible-metal) exhaust tube. This is not difficult. It just takes a couble (Home Depot) iron plumbing BUSHINGS, which screw-onto the intake & outflow pipes of the B&S muffler proper. Finally, one must heavily-SEAL said muffler connections with fire-stop CAULK. Don't be shy, SLATHER the caulk on with wild-abandone! I use 3m's superior, "FIRE BARRIER SEALANT CP-25WB+ INTUMESCENT" (Home Depot, Paint Dept., $12.00 commercial tube). Don't forget to use that old standard Navy issue: the Mark-1, Model-1, Human IMAGINATION! Any questions, email directly me at phpvet@gmail.com. Lastly, there are many RV GENERATOR mufflers which could be adapted to same purposes, such as the "GENERAC MODEL 09742 GENERATOR MUFFLER". And, that's your "boating tip" for the day. (END)

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    Quote Originally Posted by whatablast View Post
    What type thru hull fitting is being used for the combustion air duct on the espar D4 heater. I looked at one GC boat with a D4 installed and the combustion air was ducted to the inside of the boat. Seems to me it should come from outside. Therefore I would like some ideas for the proper fitting.
    Indeed, the combustion air must come from OUTSIDE the boat, RV, truck cab, or whatever. If it comes frome the INSIDE, then you are consuming sorely-needed OXYGEN from the boat living spaces, despite the CO2 being vented OUTSIDE the boat (assumedly!!). That's the essential beauty of all Airtronic heaters --- no INSIDE cab/cabin air is touched at all for heater COMBUSTION purposes.
    To wit, simply bore a HOLE thru the hull or deck considerably-WIDER than the metal exhaust TUBE from the Airtronic heater. Next, "LINE" that hole via inserting therein appropriately-sized (heavy galvanized-steel, or brass) plumbing FITTINGS, so that the HOT exhaust TUBE does NOT touch the hull, deck, or cabin ceiling, through which it has been positioned. To do this, simply take a handy piece of said Airtronic EXHAUST TUBING to Home Depot's Plumbing Dept., and then choose your short sections of heavy plumbing pipe, bushings, etc., accordingly, all dependent upon the THICKNESS of the hull, deck, ceiling, etc., through which it will go. Lastly, heavily-caulk said hole with 3m's "FIRE BARRIER SEALANT CP-25WB+ INTUMESCENT" (Home Depot's Paint Dept., $12.00). And that should do it!! (END)

  19. #19
    Member Maast's Avatar
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    I'd be a little hesitant to use the caulk you mentioned, according to http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...Vs6EVs6E666666 its only rated to 120 degrees F continuous use, you'd be better off with the rutland 500 degree black silicone caulk, or their 800 degree furnace sealant.

    BTW the D4 instructions say to route the combustion air from the outside, however if you want fresh air the D4 can be a cabin air recirculation type, or a fresh air intake type.

    On mine the combustion air intake is drawn from the space under the gunwale just outside the rear cabin bulkhead.

    On mine I've got a homebrew mixer valve where I can adjust the warm air intake from mostly cabin air to completely outside air. Depending if I want a quick warm-up or to dry out the cabin.
    2696 Sea Raider Pilothouse
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    Member akdeweyj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain T View Post
    Is there a dealer in anchorage ? How much ?
    Advanced Diesel is supposed to sell & install the Espar heaters. Performance RV on Arctic & Raspberry sells & installs both Espar & Wallas.

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