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Thread: Milling tongue and groove

  1. #1
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    Default Milling tongue and groove

    I've seen a few posts where folks mentioned making their own T&G lumber for flooring or ceilings (in the field, I think)...but no mention of how they did this.

    After chainsaw milling boards, would that be the use of a regular router run off a generator for T&G?

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    Jagfish, It sounds like a fable to me. I suppose it could be done but I doubt it would be of any decent quality. 1 1/2" T&G would be nearly impossible with a router. I looked for the heads once and couldn't even find them. I did find some for 1/2 to 1 1/4 but the lumber still needs to be very consistant width and straight and dry, none of which is typical of backwoods chainsaw mill production. (not to mention planed)

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    Interesting...that's what I thought...

    I'd imagine it would be more realistic to fashion some sort of a simple lap joint. On the flat side, that could be done easily with a circular saw to 1/2 depth, but on the sides??? I have no experience...

    I'd imagine with green cut wood, you'd need some kind of overlap system or the shrinkage could leave some serious gaps.

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    I have sawn subfloor from local trees but I didn't try to lap or T&G it because of shrinkage. Beetle kill doesnt make great logs for sawing because of twist and checking. Lumber from green spruce is easier but because of the twisted grain it tends to warp like hell as it dries if it isnt stacked ,stickered and covered so I nail it down green. I have some 1x on some walls that I nailed up green and it shrunk 1/2 inch in the width. You could T&G spruce if it's put up and dried. Over all I decided that it's cheaper to buy T&G than it was to mill it, dry it, size it, plane it and shape it.

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    A friend was going to do that at his cabin but after chainsaw milling boards for other uses he's rethinking that idea. Time consuming and loud.

    After rough cutting the lumber from a tree, you need to stack it with stickers (spacers) and cover it (while allowing air flow) and let it dry for about 2 yrs.

    Then depending on how nice you want it to look, you could run it through a table saw to even up the edges, then through a planer to get it to a consistent thickness, then back to the table saw to cut the T&Gs. There's other ways to do it and a few passes on a jointer would help but any way you go it will take some time.

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    Member Rock_skipper's Avatar
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    I agree with NRick, If you have a gen set that will pull a table saw, you can do this fairly easy. You will have to let them dry for a period of time but it is doabale.

  7. #7
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    Anyone know of someone on the Kenai Peninsula or in Anchorage selling T&G that I could use for walls and ceilings?

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    I could make it but...I doubt it would be cheaper than at THD 1x6 T&G KP is .80/lft. Last time I bought green spruce boards I paid .50/lft for 1x8 Thats .75/bft. If I can buy 1x6 for 1/2 that or .375/lft...add about 20%+ for waste...discounting transportation, handeling, taxes, that's .45/lft ...add labor and expenses of sizing, planing, milling twice for maybe .20/lft so you are up there about .65/lft for green t&g. but it would be ugly, feathered and will shrink/check/twist

    You can buy "kiln dried" 1x6 boards for .75/lft and add the same 20% waste, same sizing, planing, milling but then you are way over the .80/lft that you can buy it.

    Barker in Sterling does some milling. I'm game if I can make a few bucks but my plate is full for projects that make my wallet thinner.

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    Poppert Milling out in the valley does a variety of local wood products

    http://www.poppertmilling.com/

    I've never bought from them but a friend of mine trimmed out his house here in Anchortown with birch from Popperts and recommended them.

  10. #10
    Member Dirtofak's Avatar
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    I plan to use Mat-Valley Milling. They have a woodmizer and the quality is great. They are going to cut my 2" fir sub-flooring in 1/2 and T&G it.

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