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Thread: canoe winter storage ??

  1. #1
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    Default canoe winter storage ??

    Any prep work to do on the scott freighter before winter,other than flipping it over and covering it?What about on a royalex canoe?

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    My old town 164 (plastic material w/cane seats) is about 19 years old and all I have done is flip it over to keep the snow out, also don't allow the wet grass and weeds to touch the cane seats and web to prevent any rot. That's pretty much it! if you have the garage space more power to you. I have left mine out for all these years. Which canoe(s) do you have?

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    Default blocks

    I put blocks under mine so the wooden rails aren't in contact with my flatbed trailer directly. But yeah, flip & cover, easy.

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    no waxing necessary?
    Rufus: I have a scott 21' hudsonbay with a honda 20hp and a esquif 17' cargo canoe with a merc 4hp 4 stroke

    thanks Guys

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    I've taken my coleman's and my aluminum's, stack them in a 3 pattern over wood blocks and let them sit.

    This year, they are on one of the trailers that has a good rack to hold them up off the ground. Basically, it's the trailer I use to hit the rivers with if I don't have them on the truck ladder rack.

    I don't do anything else to them.

  6. #6

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    I put my 21' Scott HB to bed for the winter. ran a 2 X 8 spliced all the way down from
    bow to stern held up by 2 2 X 6 uprights tarped it. And made sure water was out of keel pipe by raising bow high before it froze. Winterized OB and it will be fine come spring. Also makes great winter storage for boat related stuff that can freeze.

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    If you have wood rails you might check out Mad River's site. They suggest loosening some of the screws during freezing temps. We love the look and feel of the wood trim, but wouldn't get it again.

  8. #8

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    I looked & they were referring to Roylex material, I hope that Fiberglass won,t have enough winter projects to do than to tighten & loosen bolts winter & Spring!

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    Thumbs up thanks kk

    Quote Originally Posted by kk alaska View Post
    I looked & they were referring to Roylex material, I hope that Fiberglass won,t have enough winter projects to do than to tighten & loosen bolts winter & Spring!
    Thanks for looking that up. I wasn't going to do that to mine either; it hasn't cracked anything over winter before... I've had a few boats, but none as strong, tough, & both trouble-free and expense-free boat as my Scott.

    Its not a hole in the water that you pour money into as they say in general about boats...

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    Thanks.

    1 more trip on the river next weekend,then that will be it until may.

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    When using the HB late in the season,is it a big deal if water freezes in the cut outs in the floor for the keel pipe? Kind of inevitable with a bit of water in the boat,as it will freeze over night.

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    Quote Originally Posted by grit View Post
    When using the HB late in the season,is it a big deal if water freezes in the cut outs in the floor for the keel pipe? Kind of inevitable with a bit of water in the boat,as it will freeze over night.
    No big deal. 8 years of this with mine and no problem at all.

  13. #13

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    Dont let water freeze in keel pipe raise bow & let drain before it freezes.

  14. #14
    Moderator Alaskacanoe's Avatar
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    Default winter canoe prep

    I had a canoe once that was put upside down on a small trailer bed about 2 feet off the ground,,, and thought that would be just dandy for the winter.. the snow came and covered the canoe and trailer..
    then one day my wife said that something was going on down by the canoe trailer area, as it looked like some activity in the snow had been taking place..
    I went down to see what she was talking about and found a Moose had stepped up on the trailer and then on the canoe, and put a hole thru it to the trailer deck, then when the moose tried to step out of the canoe, the canoe material caught on his or her leg and so the struggle must have been pretty wild,, because this frozen down canoe in 2 feet of snow was all beat up... and was a total loss..
    so make sure you put your canoe up high enough that a moose won't step on it... I am sure it was tough on the moose... having that canoe attached to his leg...
    I also heard about a fiberglass boat that was put upside down like my canoe was, and a moose got ontop of it and then fell thru,, the moose suffered life ending injury due to the fiberglass breaking and cuts to his tendons and vessels....
    They struggle pretty hard to escape..
    Max
    When you come to a fork in the trail, take it!

    Rentals for Canoes, Kayaks, Rafts, boats serving the Kenai canoe trail system and the Kenai river for over 15 years. www.alaskacanoetrips.com

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    has anyone filled in the grove for the keel pipe with some sort of spray liner?That would solve the water freezing in there

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    Default canoe

    tip over so the botton is up to keep the water out an dry in side, keep it off the ground on blocks of wood or shipping pallets work great an cheep don't put it under the eves of the house some times the roof will dump could hit the canoe [bad news] don't let the leaves set on top very long can stain the metal, crud will build up on the bottom if you don't use it very much so when it is dry, put a tarp over it to help keep the crud off, tarp is not a must just nice,to help keep it clean, any thing beyond this is cream on top but not a must

    SID

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    great thread!
    If you have a royalex canoe with wood rails, it is a good idea to loosen the screws since the plastic and wood expand at differing rates and can cause cracks as the screws get pulled through the plastic.
    and if you get water frozen in your boat, do not use a sledge hammer to break it free.
    thanks Alaskacanoe for the tip. I have stored my plastic boats on the ground in the past. I will find a spot higher this year. I never considered a moose stepping into it!

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    Well time to put my HB away for winter,won't hit the water til mid may for spring bear.Very pleased with my first seaon with the new HB freighter.
    Finally had the chance to load a moose into her on friday, she only sat about 3" more in the water then when she was empty.Anyway here she is flipped over on make shift stands ready to be tarped,I take it this should be sufficient storage til spring. Hope everyone had a great canoe season.

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    Unhappy Roylex WILL crack in cold

    I have a Easy Rider canoe that is made from Roylex and it cracked really bad last winter all over. I should have known better then to keep it outside when it gets really cold (less then -40 F). It survived the previous two winters outside just fine so I assumed things were all good. Last winter it got down to -55 F at my house and because of the mismatch in the CTE (coefficient of thermal expansion) between the aluminum extrusion frame and the plastic the aluminum shrank alot but the plastic did not. I now have to repair about 10 cracks that started at the rivets and extend about 8 to 10 inches down.

    My advice is to keep the canoe inside or do the following if you have a roylex/aluminum canoe.

    Drill out all the rivets and attach the aluminum onto the hull with polysulfide adhesive or something that will give and get rid of the stress concentrations around the rivets.

    That is my 2 cents based on my misfortune

    Not sure if I am going to patch it now or just use the thing to make a mold for a new fiberglass/carbon setup. Oh the joys of living in the interior of Alaska!

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    Quote Originally Posted by flyerfly View Post
    I have a Easy Rider canoe that is made from Roylex and it cracked really bad last winter all over. I should have known better then to keep it outside when it gets really cold (less then -40 F). It survived the previous two winters outside just fine so I assumed things were all good. Last winter it got down to -55 F at my house and because of the mismatch in the CTE (coefficient of thermal expansion) between the aluminum extrusion frame and the plastic the aluminum shrank alot but the plastic did not. I now have to repair about 10 cracks that started at the rivets and extend about 8 to 10 inches down.

    My advice is to keep the canoe inside or do the following if you have a roylex/aluminum canoe.

    Drill out all the rivets and attach the aluminum onto the hull with polysulfide adhesive or something that will give and get rid of the stress concentrations around the rivets.

    That is my 2 cents based on my misfortune

    Not sure if I am going to patch it now or just use the thing to make a mold for a new fiberglass/carbon setup. Oh the joys of living in the interior of Alaska!
    I had the same thing happen with my Winona and the rails are "plastic", but that same sort of thing happens with contraction of the rivets themselves with extreme cold. A couple of rivets popped out and one contracted enough to put a long split in the Royalex. The only solution is a sort of washer that would let the rivets contract and expand and I don't feel like drilling out all the rivets and replacing them. I was told by Beaver Sports that this only happens with wooden gunwales and that mine was very unusual case. I sure hope so.

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