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Thread: Need a lightweight marine battery.

  1. #1
    Member Crumm's Avatar
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    Default Need a lightweight marine battery.

    I am trying to lighten up my little 14' flat-bottom a little.

    Yamaha F30-F115 Specs call for a battery that is rated for 380 CCA. I currently have a 41 pound Interstate marine battery that is rated at 405 CCA. Are there lightweight batteries out there that will meet the specs for a outboard motor? Mine is only a F40 so I really doubt that it needs as much battery as a F115.

    ATV Battery? The starter on my new F40 doesn't look any bigger than a ATV starter and ATV's run on a very lightweight battery. I have also seen small cars with tiny batteries. Even after alot of winching a ATV battery will still turn the motor over.

    Anyone tried a a lightweight battery?

  2. #2

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    I have one of the Odyssey batteries in my airplane and it really puts out the power for very little weight. Here is the one rated at 380CCA and it weighs 26 lbs.
    http://www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey...L-battery.html

  3. #3

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    the 925 odyssey battery will start a small block. You could even go lighter and get away with the 680 model. 680 cranking amps for 5 seconds even when it's very cold out. Crank longer and the output drops slightly but not much. 15 pounds, vibration resistant, can be mounted sideways, and can be discharged 80-100% without damage. You can also charge them very fast. They use the 680 on many street bikes and motorcycles.
    Last edited by Buzz; 09-20-2009 at 19:34. Reason: wrong words

  4. #4

    Default Odyssey

    http://www.odysseybattery.com/

    I looked at these too they are very well made, extra lead plate area, virgin lead not recycled and has good stats. But no one sells up here that I seen. I'm going to replace my two batterys next year and hope to order these this winter and have them driven up or shipped.

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    Batteries Plus stocks Odyssey batteries. I have a couple and have been thoroughly impressed. The PC625 in my airplane is 10 years young and still going strong. The only place where the small batteries may bite you is if you need extended cranking time. In that case, size matters. But that shouldn't be an issue with a fuel injected outboard.

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    Member Crumm's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. Odyssey sounds like the way to go. Looks like I can get one on Amazon.com with free shipping. A 30 pound reduction in battery weight will be much easier than loosing 30 pounds from my mid-section.

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    Did a bunch of reading tonight and it looks like the Odyssey PC625 is the unit. It is the smallest marine battery they offer. 480 cranking amps for 20 seconds should be plenty and it only weighs 13.2 pounds. Only question is the reserve capacity. Yamaha calls for 124 minutes but the PC625 only has 27 minutes reserve capacity. Does this really matter? I am thinking that the CCA is the only thing I really need to be concerned with.

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    My speck sheet for the pc625 said 265 cca.

    If you know the cranking current of your engine divided it into cca, it will give you how long you can crank the engine in hrís.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rutting Moose View Post
    My speck sheet for the pc625 said 265 cca.
    The specs do say 265 CCA as tested by automotive standards but they also say:
    625 cranking amps for 5 seconds
    545 cranking amps for 10 seconds
    480 cranking amps for 20 seconds
    Battery's are not normally rated for 5 seconds but for some reason Odyssey does. My Yamaha F40EFI always starts with just a bump of the key so the CCA would be 625 and I am sure it would never fall below the 380 that Yamaha calls for in there specs even if it needed primed. There is always the rope back-up if it gets weak.

  10. #10

    Default you're right

    that's plenty. If you're only using it as a cranking battery, you can't go wrong. Especially if you have a rope-start backup.

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    Thumbs up

    i ran my 1999, PTT 90hp mec... with a regular "lawn tractor battery" for years... HB fish finder,raideo,hour metter.wiper,gps. never once missed a lick....
    WHEN IN DOUBT> THROTTLE OUT.......

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    Quote Originally Posted by atvalaska View Post
    regular "lawn tractor battery" for years...
    Not sure if a regular lawn tractor battery would have the CCA needed for newer EFI?

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    If that is one of the new EFI 40's, there is no rope back up. You might have an emergency pull cord, but if your battery doesn't have over 12 volts, that motor won't run period. You'll notoce that if you try to disconnect the battery while the motor is running it will quit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Akfish1 View Post
    If that is one of the new EFI 40's, there is no rope back up. You might have an emergency pull cord, but if your battery doesn't have over 12 volts, that motor won't run period. You'll notoce that if you try to disconnect the battery while the motor is running it will quit.
    Seriously? Once running the motor's alternator won't sustain the electrical needs? I guess I'll test mine this weekend. I never would have dreamed it wouldn't run without a battery.

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    I would rethink removing the battery them the engine is running. Your Alternator voltage could go way up destroying the electronics. I would try to start the engine with out a battery and see if it will start.
    I know most, if not all alternators need battery voltage to supply current to the field and they also use the battery voltage as a reference to know how much current to generate.


    Are you sure it does not have a magneto?

    I would email or talk to a factory person before removing the battery when the engine is running just to be safe.

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    Interesting stuff. Yamaha 4-strokes use alternators. Crumm's F40 has CDI computer ignition and my F60 uses TDI computer ignition. I don't have a clue how either one works. It would be nice to know whether these engines can be started without a battery. Or if they keep running after the removal of a battery, as would be the case after getting a jump start. If I have time this weekend I'll try to start and run mine without a battery. While I'm at it I'll hook up a PC625 and start the motor. I'll have to jury-rig the terminals but I'm confident it'll start the motor easily.

    We've all push-started motorcycles and cars with dead batteries. They ran. But they didn't have EFI. At least mine didn't.

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    Member Sobie2's Avatar
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    Make sure it meets the specs... but like you l own a small jet skiff.

    Instead of getting a new battery get longer battery cables and place your battery as far forward as you can to reduce weight in the rear, reduce bow rise, and help your ability to get on step.

    Sobie2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Akfish1 View Post
    If that is one of the new EFI 40's, there is no rope back up. You might have an emergency pull cord, but if your battery doesn't have over 12 volts, that motor won't run period. You'll notoce that if you try to disconnect the battery while the motor is running it will quit.
    Yes it is EFI with emergency pull cord. I know it needs a battery to run but even if the battery got too low to crank it there should be enough voltage left to start it with the cord? It starts with just a bump of the key so I am thinking that the cord will never be needed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Pid View Post
    While I'm at it I'll hook up a PC625 and start the motor. I'll have to jury-rig the terminals but I'm confident it'll start the motor easily.
    Let me know how it works.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sobie2 View Post
    Instead of getting a new battery get longer battery cables and place your battery as far forward as you can to reduce weight in the rear, reduce bow rise, and help your ability to get on step.
    Did that. I went to P&T and got 14' of cable made up with the proper ends to wire right into the motor and to the battery. I installed a hatch up front and mounted the battery inside the front flotation compartment. It did lighten the back of the boat up but I would still rather dump the 40# battery in exchange for a 12# battery. Every little bit helps.

    Used heavy gauge Arctic Ultraflex Blue Wire like this stuff:

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