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Thread: cabin floors insulation

  1. #1

    Default cabin floors insulation

    i was thinking of going with the 1.inchs thick typle floor panels for the cabin floor insulation for the cold weather value and the wood floor paneling set up ..
    so what do you guys thinking of the indea along any info on the wall typle insulation

  2. #2
    Member AKDoug's Avatar
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    1.inchs thick typle floor panels
    ??? Not sure what you are asking. 1" of any foam type is going to yield between R4 and R8 depending on the foam. That is simply not enough insulation.
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    It's hard to say what insulating methods would be best with the information (lack of information) provided. In cold climates there are so many issues involved in construction that many of the issues are dependent upon other aspects of the building design.

    Is the building used seasonally?

    Are utility services, plumbing/ wastewater etc to be protected ?

    If the structure is used in the winter in Alaska, typically a skirting at the perimeter is insulated to allow the crawl space benieth the building to be warmed by the heat from the living space so as to prevent freezing and subsequent damage to the service componants with in the crawlspace.

    If the building is just seasonally used a or perhaps located on permafrost or otherwise designed so as not to require a protected crawlspace, there are a few options available for insulating a floor. Floor sheathing such as plywood or OSB flooring can technically meet the "vapor barrier" ( when installed correctly) design requirements that protect the floor structure from moisture damage caused by condensation. I personally prefer rigid insulation installed tightly between the floor joist framing members because of its convenience to transport, its insulative value/inch, it's resistance to pests and critters and the ease of installation. Rigid foam sheets could be installed PRIOR to installing the floor sheath with a little inginuity allowing old people like myself to install it from above rather than laying on my back on the ground benieth a house.

  4. #4

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    the inch thick typle floor units for under the floor and between the floor paneling typle insulation set up with a skirt around the base of the cabin to help with the heat of the unit as need

    the big problem is how much thickness that it going to be need to help with keeping the house warm in winter time

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    Don't insulate the floor. Insulate the skirt and rimjoists.

    Johns 003.jpg

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    Member Vince's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by henry2 View Post
    the inch thick typle floor units for under the floor and between the floor paneling typle insulation set up with a skirt around the base of the cabin to help with the heat of the unit as need

    the big problem is how much thickness that it going to be need to help with keeping the house warm in winter time

    Henry WHERE are you planning on building...

    there are 4 distict climate zones in ak...

    Mics in the southern...(not including southeast AK that is like north western states)

    akdoug in the centrial

    and i am in the interior.. Northern... Also a contractor...

    your landing spot has certian needs for each portion of the state... Etc... whether or not you deal with perma frost, have access to well water, city, or holding tanks.. utilites coridors heat source and types...

    so lets start with WHERE you PLAN on living and go from there.
    "If you are on a continuous search to be offended, you will always find what you are looking for; even when it isn't there."

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  7. #7
    Member Rock_skipper's Avatar
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    Heck just buy the styrofoam blocks, fill them with concrete and V.B. the whole crawl space.

    For those of you that wish to build you cabin/house above ground, install rigid in between the joist, seal it with tremco/ or another subsitute, get some arctic pipe and be done with it.

    I do have 4 pieces of 11" x4' x 16' if someone needs them for there floor.

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    yeah...ICF is da bomb! But not if he's in the bush!

  9. #9

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    around the area of alcan border area they have land there and they give me a two acres sized lot to build on in between there homestead that they have up there ..they live about five miles past the border area in a small out of the a way area up there ,for all of them have a small homesteads in this area and they give me a two arces sized lot to build on ..

    i am going trade the land to one of the girls for something late on in homer for the oldest girl is looking to go down into the homer area and live and work ..so we are tradeing so things around ..

    i had the conex boxs moved off and put into a stowage place for the winter time intill next spring time and i should have all the area fixed up and ready to go the house cabin bult and liveing in by that time ....

    all my brother work for the feds as border partol and us custom my sister work for the dod people up there..

  10. #10

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    i just got off the phone with maria and she said how to tell poeple is that you going to live in a area between northway and alcan about five miles from northway area for that way she said the kids could go to school in northway school system ..

    so also said have someone tell me about the back door roads in the area down to anchorage areas for i wanted to drive then in the winter and summer time driveing

    that they go to fairbanks or tok for all the supplies and have a mail box in northway for mail..

  11. #11
    Member Dirtofak's Avatar
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    I hope you really like it cold outside. That area is pretty cold in the winter.

    I read this on another site:

    Build it stout with something you know about.

  12. #12
    Member GrassLakeRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vince View Post
    Henry WHERE are you planning on building...

    there are 4 distict climate zones in ak...

    Mics in the southern...(not including southeast AK that is like north western states)

    akdoug in the centrial

    and i am in the interior.. Northern... Also a contractor...

    your landing spot has certian needs for each portion of the state... Etc... whether or not you deal with perma frost, have access to well water, city, or holding tanks.. utilites coridors heat source and types...

    so lets start with WHERE you PLAN on living and go from there.

    What would specs would you use near Eagle on the Yukon? Would a 12" joist, plywood/fiberglass sandwich work?

    Ron

  13. #13
    Member Vince's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrassLakeRon View Post
    What would specs would you use near Eagle on the Yukon? Would a 12" joist, plywood/fiberglass sandwich work?

    Ron
    suppose... but it dont sound very Tasty....


    12 inch floor is a bit of over kill but depend on your heat source..

    keeping in mind that cabins built over perma frost need to be insulated to PREVENT heat escaping to the ground. most of ours are 10 in R 30 and a 1/2 foilfaced foam board accross the joist bottoms. foils up to reflect het back to floor, and heated with Toyos just fine...

    you also only enclose the skirt to prevent air flow by wind etc.. so your insulated drains do not freeze.
    "If you are on a continuous search to be offended, you will always find what you are looking for; even when it isn't there."

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  14. #14

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    thank you guys for all the info on the cabin flooring and the cabin insulation set up ...

    i was talking to liz and maria on a three way about things to do before i get ready to leave again ..

    about getting the land ready for building out there by next summer ..i going to be in out of anchorage area for the next 6 months on this new trials that the all the guys in the drug task force case i work a long time ago

    so again thank for you for all the help with the floors and other cabin building question ..

  15. #15
    Member AKDoug's Avatar
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    I'm in the middle of Vince and mics... Folks around here build both ways... Insulated floor like Vince if they don't have plumbing, or build a 4'x4' insulated box to below ground for their plumbing.

    They also do it mics way. Most buildings over 1000 sq ft are built with either foam block concrete foundations or all weather wood foundations.

    What I know about Northway area is that there is lots of permafrost around. In that case, Vince's way of doing it would be better. 2x10 or 2x12 joists filled with fiberglass insulation with either foam board or OSB on the bottom to hold it in. Take extra care to do the rim joists right with either spray in foam or cut to fit styrofoam.
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  16. #16
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    What I did in my 12X30 addition is 2x8 joists on 16" centers and 3/4 T&G ply sub-floor. Then I ran a loop of 1/2" PEX in each bay stapled in place and put 1" foil face foam under the pipe with foil side up. The rest was filled with closed cell spray foam that I found in large tanks at Lowes. This gives me about an R26 with zero air or vapor migration from below. I had planned to run another 2 layer of board under the joists to insulate the joists themselves, but I have found that like it is now is already overkill for Palmer. I do intend to put a well vented skirting around it to keep snow and dogs out from under it someday but I have worm floors from just the woodstove even without running the radiant heat at all.
    Andy
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  17. #17

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    thank you guys for the info ..keepem comeing the ideas are makeing the days in court a lot better with me drawing on paper in the courtroom waiting area chamber for i drawing my dream cabin section by section on the floor plans

    adfields could you take a picture of the your set up so i could get a idea of the floor set up ..

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