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Thread: 4-Stroke Outboard Motor Oil

  1. #1
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    Default 4-Stroke Outboard Motor Oil

    Is anybody using synthetic oil in a Yamaha 4-stroke? Yamaha doesn't recommend it because it isn't tested, yet Yamaha snowgo oil has morphed from semi-synthetic to full synthetic. Why shouldn't a guy use a good quality synthetic in an outboard's crankcase?

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    Amsoil makes a 10w30 and 10w40 with the FCW rating for outboard motors. If your full synthetic oil has the FCW rating it will be fine in your Yamaha Four Stroke Outboard.

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    Member mainer_in_ak's Avatar
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    Nobody can go wrong just sticking with the manufacturer's recommended oil for that paticular outboard. I learned that the hard way.........
    No matter what the circumstance, no matter what fancy "royal purple", Amsoil.....or all the other over priced brands have to say about it........just stick with the same name that is on the cover of ur outboard. That's the way I do it with my snow machine too.

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    Use Mobil 1 syn in our 4-stoke zuk 40.
    Makes a big difference in how fast the oil gets dirty.
    With the 40 you can tell hp wise when the oil gets dirty.

  5. #5

    Default FCW

    Would not use anything that is not FCW rated for OB. Talked to 2 different dealers who had people using non FCW oil in there OB,s and both had severe corrosion. When they
    changed back to FCW it cleaned up corrosion. 4 stk Outboards are to much money not
    to use what works.

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    You guys are great. I found FC-W oil on the Amsoil site. I had hoped to use the same Amsoil I use in everything else but I see it doesn't meet the 4-stroke marine spec. That's what I was looking for. Thanks for the info.

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    Member atvalaska's Avatar
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    Thumbs up or u could go to the horse's mouth...this is who makes thier oil

    Yamalube
    Product Use: Engine Oil
    Product Number(s): 50930
    Company Identification
    Chevron Petroleum Company msds sheets rule!
    WHEN IN DOUBT> THROTTLE OUT.......

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    I have used Amsoil in both of my 4Strokes, one of them was a yam 115.
    I did not keep the yam long enough to have an approriate long term test.
    I am currently using it my DF140, I use the marine stuff speced for those motors.
    It would be nice if you could run the same oil in everything but doesnt seem to be the recomendation.
    On a side note, I have used Amsoil in my fleet of company rigs for years, and can only say that I will continue to do so, I have a ford w-star w/ over 200K, several chevy 350's w/ 150 & 175 K on them and I run it in my powerstroke.
    It has given excellent service in every motor and the motors are clean when ever I have had a valve cover or intake off. Most of these rigs were bought used, such as ex-rider vans, so who knows how they were treated before I got them.
    I think the most important thing, whatever oil you use, is to change it at the proper intervals.
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
    TR

  9. #9

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    Here's a link to the oil I use in my Hondas.

    http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/WCT.aspx

    Be sure to run your engine during break in using the recommended Yamaha mineral oil. It is said that you could jeopardize the seating of the piston rings by using synthetic oil. It is claimed that synthetic oil is too slippery to allow the rings to properly wear the honing in the cylinders.

    You might end up with a permanent oil burner if you change over to synthetic too soon.

    I ran my Hondas 20+ hours changing the Honda brand oil several times. Then I changed over to the Amsoil in the link above.

    Also, it is probably a good idea to upgrade your oil filter to one of the high efficiency filters like those sold by Amsoil.

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    Member Dupont Spinner's Avatar
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    I find this weird for OB mans to not recommend syns for use until after break in. Because almost all car (I think VW still doesn't do it) and motorcycle (Harely doesn't) manufacturers put syns in at the factory.

    I wonder if it is because of the low temps most OB's run at.

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    Member dbull66's Avatar
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    Question Oil

    I just bought a Hewes with a 150 Yam. The mechanic told me not ot use synthetic oil.. I dont know why not..

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    Member Akgramps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbull66 View Post
    I just bought a Hewes with a 150 Yam. The mechanic told me not ot use synthetic oil.. I dont know why not..
    Find a new mechanic....!
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
    TR

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    Quote Originally Posted by dbull66 View Post
    I just bought a Hewes with a 150 Yam. The mechanic told me not ot use synthetic oil.. I dont know why not..
    According to the Yamaha mechanics I asked? Yamaha doesn't recommend synthetic oil because they haven't tested it. Fair enough.

    There's lots of info on the web about FC-W oil. The most apparent quality of the FC-W grade is corrosion protection. There's other info on the web that discusses that 4-stroke outboards operate at lower average temperatures than most 4-stroke engines. That generally contributes to corrosive contamination of the engine oil. Probably the biggest advantage of synthetic oil is the prolonged service life and extended oil change interval in most vehicles. Is that agreed upon? Interesting that the Amsoil website states that with the FC-W synthetic marine engine oil they recommend oil changes at manufacturer-specified intervals. Bye bye oil change interval advantage!

    I may use Amsoil, but it will depend on the price compared to Yamalube. Yamalube is easier for me to get. Since the engine runs cool and the oil change interval remains the same (neither favors typical synthetic oil advantages), I don't guess there's much reason to worry about it.

  14. #14

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    The thing that makes a PREMIUM synthetic better than other oils, including discount priced synthetic oil (like Costco Mobil 1) is the additive package. Once the additives are "used up" the oil no longer protects.

    Outboards typically run cool, the oil gathers condensation. Fuel leaks past rings, diluting the oil and jeopardizing the protection. Moisture and fuel in your crankcase will lead to damage.

    After break in use a PREMIUM synthetic (I am sold on Amsoil) and change it way too often. Oil is cheap insurance. Outboards are expensive and one of the last things on my list of things purchase behind food, clothes, mortgage, etc. I can't afford to replace my outboards, especially if I have to replace them because I neglected keeping a clean, quality oil in the crankcase.

  15. #15
    Member L. G.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kk alaska View Post
    When they
    changed back to FCW it cleaned up corrosion.
    You lost me here.

    The corrosion (metal loss, pitting, etc.) somehow "repairs" itself after going back to FCW?

    [I don't think so . . .]

  16. #16
    Member L. G.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobshem View Post
    The thing that makes a PREMIUM synthetic better than other oils, including discount priced synthetic oil (like Costco Mobil 1) is the additive package.
    Mobil 1 is a "discount priced" synthetic? I think that would be any blended sythetic that claims (or otherwise makes the buyer believe that) to be a full synthetic.

  17. #17
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    What's wrong with just 10-30 old fashion oil?

    Syn oils are not worth all the extra cash if you perform the needed maintenance. Syn is good when you live in Fairbanks for winter use, but then again I don't think anyone is using their boats....

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  18. #18

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    What's wrong with just 10-30 old fashion oil?


    There is a great resource called "The Motor Oil Bible". I think that you can download it for free from the Internet. It will tell you what's wrong with old fashioned oil.

    I read it and it explains that crude oil is fashioned to work as an engine lubricant. Crude varies in quality and is made suitable as a lubricant by refining and additives. Crude can only be refined so far and still be economical. If you make it a first rate lubricant it will be too expensive to create. An extensively refined crude lubricant would be more expensive that a lubricant designed and "constructed" from the ground up.

    Synthetics were designed from the ground up as a lubricant. There are no impurities to refine out.

    Imagine this. You lose you leg. You can fashion a new leg from a nice piece of walnut. Or you can see a specialist who will design you a very functional prosthetic leg designed from the ground up as a replacement leg. That, IMHO, is the difference between mineral oil and synthetic. Mineral oil, with some tweaking can be a decent lubricant. Synthetic oil was made for the job of lubricating engines.

    Mobil 1 is a "discount priced" synthetic? I think that would be any blended synthetic that claims (or otherwise makes the buyer believe that) to be a full synthetic.
    "Full synthetic" by itself doesn't mean a lot. There are at least two base stocks used for synthetics. One is more expensive than the other. For the best performance with engine seals they need to be blended. And there are additive packages. The discount priced synthetics are competitively priced due to fewer of the expensive additives.

    I used to assume that all synthetics were comparable until I noticed that Mobil 1 now has an "extended service" version of its synthetic oil. What that suggests is that regular discounted Mobil 1 is skimpy on additives.

    Amsoil premium oil is advertised as being useful for extended service. The additive packages are robust enough to protect your engines after many miles. However, in my toys (outboards, snowmobiles, etc) I don't try to extend the use. I change my oil more frequently than recommended by the manufacturer of the toy.

    Cheap insurance. Why take a chance, unless you plan on replacing your toys every few year? It that case use mineral oil and trade in your engines every other year.

    Take this one to the bank: You get what you pay for. If you buy cheap oil you get cheap oil performance. If you buy premium oil you get premium oil performance. There is no free lunch. If it is cheap, there is a good reason it is cheap.





  19. #19

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    but then again I don't think anyone is using their boats....


    There are quite a few folks who flog the Kenai River in subzero temperatures, including me.

  20. #20
    Member Crumm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKBassking View Post
    Syn is good when you live in Fairbanks for winter use, but then again I don't think anyone is using their boats...
    It can be below zero during October when the Duck hunting is good. I will let you know how it starts with Yamalube in it as I plan on sticking with the manufactures recommendation.

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