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Thread: Septic line to tank---how much turns allowed

  1. #1

    Default Septic line to tank---how much turns allowed

    I know the line wants to be as straight as possible, with few bends. I know it wants to have more than 45* of drop, and/or less than 1/2" per foot drop. My question is how many turns and bends is too many turns and bends so that the solids flow too slowly and the waste water out runs them......leaving the solids stopped in the line.....???? Is there a formula like no more than "X" amount of degrees of bends per ten foot of run...???

  2. #2

  3. #3

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    Does NOT answer the question, but it has PRETTY photos......... Any donkey can hire someone to do it for him. A Homesteaders challenge is to figure it out and do it himself.

  4. #4
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    Take a hint.
    It is against state regulations for you to install a septic system without the proper permitting which accompanies an owner/installer certification set up by the ADEC.

    You are asking a question presumebly which can only be answered by those with the experience or certification which would have given them the knowledge. The certification class for installers currenly cost $675.00 and takes several hours to complete.
    The homowner/installer class is considerably less expensive but there is still a fee involved which covers administration costs. It also takes some investment in time.
    I attempted to politely guide you to this information for your benifit. I think it's rather foolish of you to post questions pertaining to the subject matter on a public forum. It would probably be equally foolish for a certified or qualified installer to answer them.
    I totally understand your need, desire, objectives in seeking to bypass the fees, costs and expenses that law abiding citizens must shell out but if I could offer you a bit of advice it would be that when you ask people to help you break the laws of alaska...you do it in a less conspicuous manner.

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    If I knew the answer I would give you one. Last time I checked it wasn't illegal to ask a question or give an answer. Besides the question is about the plumbing not putting in the septic field. Unless Obama has added plumbing to his socialist conversion checklist.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by mics_54 View Post
    Take a hint.
    It is against state regulations for you to install a septic system without the proper permitting which accompanies an owner/installer certification set up by the ADEC.

    You are asking a question presumebly which can only be answered by those with the experience or certification which would have given them the knowledge. The certification class for installers currenly cost $675.00 and takes several hours to complete.
    The homowner/installer class is considerably less expensive but there is still a fee involved which covers administration costs. It also takes some investment in time.
    I attempted to politely guide you to this information for your benifit. I think it's rather foolish of you to post questions pertaining to the subject matter on a public forum. It would probably be equally foolish for a certified or qualified installer to answer them.
    I totally understand your need, desire, objectives in seeking to bypass the fees, costs and expenses that law abiding citizens must shell out but if I could offer you a bit of advice it would be that when you ask people to help you break the laws of alaska...you do it in a less conspicuous manner.

    NOTE: THE SEPTIC SYSTEM was installed Four (4) Years ago.........This is NOT a septic System....It is a 4" drain line running from the NEW building to the existing LINE. Send the building inspectors if you think it is needed. I don't need any permit to build on the Kenai Peninsula, outside of the incorporated cities...And you KNOW....don't bluff this Cowboy.....based on our past form interactions, I was building buildings in Alaska when you were in Junior High School. If you can't be constructive, at least be quiet.

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    don't bluff this Cowboy.....based on our past form interactions, I was building buildings in Alaska when you were in Junior High School. If you can't be constructive, at least be quiet.
    I see...so you already know the answer and were just bored and making conversation. FYI installation of lines to a septic system from the foundation of the structure to the tank are part of the septic system. This line is subject to the installation regulations to which I refered you. I know how many bends, minimum distance from the tank to the house, componants of the line, size, type of pipe allowed, minimum depth of the pipe, acceptable fittings, access requirements, method of installation and bedding requirements....simply because I've installed so many of them...legally..in accordance with the regulations...

    Again I tried to do it the "quiet" way.

    I didnt claim you needed anything to build a building...I stated what the regulations are for installation of a septic system. If you already knew what they were...I have to wonder why you asked.

    My first post was the most constructive part of this entire thread. But then some people think they can pick and choose which laws or regs to follow..usually based on personal need.

    Now I have offered to help you several times on here. Whether you appreciate it or not is anyones guess. I'm beginning to wonder.

  8. #8
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    Let's all do an experiment...

    Go to the fishing forum and ask for information on the best way to snag reds on the kenai.

    or...

    Go to the hunting forum and seek information of the best way to hide an illegally killed moose so the ravens don't give you away to the neighbors.

    or..

    How about just post in the ads for outfitters asking if anyone wants to hire you to take them on a hunt or fishing trip and you that you can save them money because you dont have the expense of a license to do that type of thing.

    I wonder if they would be so kind to direct you to the governing authority website.

    Things that make you go... "hmmmm"

  9. #9

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    this is my basic plan for a septic line system for i had at the cabin in texas and it worked great there... i am going to have to tweak the system up here for the cold weather facts of alaska ..
    ..
    i plan on useing a rock bed typle gravel bed with diff sized rocks mixed into a pea sized gravel base to let the black water be drained out into from the house black water tank system set up..

    laying a pvc typle pipe below the so called frost line up there on the house site and then starting at a 4ft,.from the pit the system pipe has diff sized holes cut into the pipe on the sides and bottom of the pipe to let the waste water drain into the diff sized rocks mixed into the pit that covers the pipe as it goes into the rock garden sized pit with the pit is a long saight pit unit with the rocks pipe for the rocks and gravel let the stewage go down into the soil be soaked into the soil ..i plan on placeing the section of pipe in the gravel drive way to help with the soaking of the house water system..

    the pipe is covered by pea sized gravel with it sitting in a pea sized gravel with a set of diff sized rocks covering the pipe after that ,,

    the gravel starts about three feet behind the first set of holes in the pipe
    the system is set up for a person useing a marine typle boating hand powered flush toliet and black and small grey water system to flush the system down into the tank ..then when the take is full it is pulled out by hand to the drain pipe bed. by useing a marine style hand pump that is hooked into the line for use as need with a open and close vaule unit

    it can be done it just takes a little work and a little thinking out of the box at times ..that makes alaska great at times for it thinking out of the box to get things done ..

    as part of the pump out section there is a stewage grinder that grinds larges lumps of toliet waste down into small pieces that can be pumped out easly from the tank system..


    iam not saying this in a mean way but if we sent a man to the moon and back and bult a space station above our heads..we can figure out how to do this project and build it to work right ..

    i have take my plans into the people in county seat to look over for my house and some of the features on it and they statched there head a few times when i was about the plans for the house and the way i wanted to do something but so far i not gotten a no you can not do that yet..

    for me are going to take my land in homer and make into a small fishing camp and me i going to build far up into alaska where my older brothers live and work so we can be togerther..

  10. #10

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    1/8th inch of drop to each foot of sewer pipe. No less, no more. Try to keep it at that. No bend in piping. All sweeps. Use long sweeps, not short sweeps. Use Black PVC for the sewer pipe and white for the drainfield or leach field. Some soils leach better with a bed, others with a trench, others with a pit/cylinder and some with evaporation above ground. What kind of soil are you talking about, below the overburden. I have done 80 feet of line from house to tank, with three sweeps, no problems.
    "96% of all Internet Quotes are suspect and the remaining 4% are fiction."
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    Akers, I think it's 1/4" to the foot.

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    1/4" to a foot.. Tape a 1" tall block of wood to the end of your four foot level. The black pipe is called ABS
    Bunny Boots and Bearcats: Utility Sled Mayhem

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    it is 1/4 in per foot for 3in and smaller and for 4 in and larger it is 1/8th per foot so i will state the obvious that for 4 in pipe do what akdoug said but with a 1/2 in block

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    akevans, can you show me where you got that from?

    Really I would like to see if its something new, because it was always 1/4" did'nt matter what pipe you used.

    Remember that there are alot of people on here that will take your word on things that you are sure of.

    Hate to see them have to dig it back up on bad advice.

    Again I'm not saying you are wrong, just want to be sure.

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    Here's a pretty good link for the do it yourselfers. ( and it does say 1/8 min, 1/4 max, so I guess where both right. lol )

    www.eco-nomic.com/septic.htm

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock_skipper View Post
    Here's a pretty good link for the do it yourselfers. ( and it does say 1/8 min, 1/4 max, so I guess where both right. lol )

    www.eco-nomic.com/septic.htm

    except when your 17feet down 50 foot away like mine was... then you do it in drops... that leads to terminal velocity being reached... and corners being necassary to prevent holes from being punched in the tank walls...
    "If you are on a continuous search to be offended, you will always find what you are looking for; even when it isn't there."

    meet on face book here

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vince View Post
    except when your 17feet down 50 foot away like mine was... then you do it in drops... that leads to terminal velocity being reached... and corners being necassary to prevent holes from being punched in the tank walls...
    EAT more fiber and your LOGS won't poke a hole in the tank.......

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    I actualy did find one on the drop systems Vince, and I'll go back and find it if you want me to. Remember I have dial up

    Really tho anyone who does this should go to the DEC's class, and get yourself certified, or the resale of your property is going to be alot more involved, and cost you alot more money.

    Good luck with your S--t. Its all downhill from here.

  19. #19
    Member Vince's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock_skipper View Post
    I actualy did find one on the drop systems Vince, and I'll go back and find it if you want me to. Remember I have dial up

    Really tho anyone who does this should go to the DEC's class, and get yourself certified, or the resale of your property is going to be alot more involved, and cost you alot more money.

    Good luck with your S--t. Its all downhill from here.
    YOU DO NOT NEED THE CLASS or be certified to do your own... only have to take photos... and have it inspected. they will provide the guide lines for you...

    i have put in several now rock... thanks for looking though.... the key is knowing how big for how many bedrooms you have...
    "If you are on a continuous search to be offended, you will always find what you are looking for; even when it isn't there."

    meet on face book here

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    rock skipper
    i am a journeyman plumber for the air force. so first i apologize if i had misinformed anyone because i know what the military does may not be by regs for Alaska. Monday i will look at the code books for Alaska and get back with you but for now my air force journeyman plumbing book states


    "FALL PER FOOT-- the velocity of wastewater in a sewer line is primarily affected by the slope of the pipe. wastewater in a sewer line should move at a velocity that prevents the depositing of settable solids in the line. this velocity call "scouring" or self cleaning velocity, is rated at 2 feet per second. for this reason you must install horizontal drainage at a uniform slope through the length of the sewer line in order to maintain a velocity of 2 feet per second. the slop of the pipe is primarily determined by the size and length of the pipe. building sewers that are 3 inches in diameter or smaller must have a fall of no less than 1/4 inch per foot. other sewer larger than 3 inches in diameter must have a fall of not less than 1/8 inch per foot. laterals, branches, and main sewers must be inclined so that a minimum flow rate of 2 feet per second is maintained. Velocity greater than 10 feet per second or slopes greater than 1/4 inch per foot of pipe can cause the solids to separate from the wastewater. this creates stoppages and causes excessive turbulence at manholes which end up eroding sewer lines."

    however like i said i will look at the code and see if it is different.

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