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Thread: Wallas heater question

  1. #1

    Default Wallas heater question

    How many people are running Wallas heaters/cook tops in their boats, what kind of fuel are you burning, are you having problems with your units etc.

    Is there any body in Anchorage that services these units?

    Over all are you happy with the Wallas heater/cook top units??

  2. #2
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    We have a Wallas stove in our C Dory. This is our 3rd season with it, and it's been great. It sips fuel and has worked flawlessly - great for cooking and heats the cabin quite well. We used to burn Klean Heat but recently started burning regular diesel fuel. Both work just fine. I've heard of people sending theirs to Scanmarine in the off season for service, and I'm not aware of any place in Alaska that works on them. Overall we're very happy with the Wallas and would highly recommend it.

  3. #3
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    I have a hewes and I too burned mineral spirits but went to diesel. I did have to reset the unit a couple of times but it always works and puts out great heat.

  4. #4

    Default Wallas 800/220 cook top/heater

    I installed one my self on my Bayliner, I use Kerosene as fresh as I can keep it and make sure the voltage is good, seems they don't like low batterys. Takes a little extra time to warm up over propane but so nice to turn it on, crawl in the ol sleeping bag and if 15 min have a toasty cabin with out the windows looking like I was in a shower.
    Awwwwwwwwwww
    If yours is doing something, what is it and I found the guys in Seattle to be very good at answering questions, fix it up here, don't know. But there has been threads on parts you can change, I should find.

  5. #5

    Default Wallas voltage sensitive

    I was beginning to have start up problems with my Wallas, particularly in the morning after being on the hook all night. Any dip below 12.5V will cause it to backfire and go into shutdown mode. No prblems during the day when the batteries are juiced. In the morning I routinely start the engine and then fire the Wallas and problem gone. I use Kleen Heat.

  6. #6
    Member bhollis's Avatar
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    This topic comes up fairly frequently. Here are links to two earlier threads:

    http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/...ghlight=wallas

    http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/...ghlight=wallas

  7. #7

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    Performance RV & Marine on the corner of Arctic and Raspberry sells them. I'm certain he installs them. When I had some work done on my boat there he found that the original installer did a poor job of routing the wiring for my Wallas and fixed that. I'm pretty sure he can fix most things on one. I don't believe they are complicated. He runs a great shop.

  8. #8
    Member breausaw's Avatar
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    We have one on our C-dory and love it, PWS in the spring and fall would be miserable without it. Use Diesel out of the pump, it’s what the manufacture recommends along with ScanMarine in Seattle who service them. Pulls air from inside for combustion so dramatically reduces condensation.
    On cold weekends the heater runs 24/7....
    Jay
    07 C-Dory 25 Cruiser
    OurPlayground.


  9. #9

    Default

    Thanks for all the comments. This is what I've learned. Scan marine indicated # 1 diesel right out of the pump is good, Only thing is in the summer most gas stations have #2. Granted #2 is also low sulfur under 15 ppm however it is a little heavier fuel. #1 fuel oil currently has between 500 and 700 ppm of sulfur and that is certain death for a wallas. Kerosene has very low sulfur as well but all my sources say it has a limited shelf life and can have gumming problems as it ages, however a little alcohol apparently corrects that problem. I also learned the wallas heater is supposed to go back to a service center after about 500 hours of operation for a tear down and clean up. This obviously is a problem when the closest center is Seattle. Soooo that's why I'm asking for all your great advice to try and limit as many problems as possible. So those of you that have been using the wallas heater long term, I'm very interested in your comments.

    Thanks again for all the info.

  10. #10
    Member spoiled one's Avatar
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    I had a wallas 1300 in my old boat and it worked fine when it was operating. It was very sensitive to the type of fuel. Scan Marine recommended 100% mineral spirits. I currently have a wallas cook top/heater in the new boat as well as the oven. I use kerosene only. I was told that it burns more efficiently and hotter eliminating the black soot out the exhaust. We love the oven, though they sure are proud of them! The stove top works alright. It takes a while to get warm, though. I would hate to depend on it to heat the cabin. Can you elaborate a bit on adding alcohol (isopropyl I assume) to the kerosene? If you are looking for a heater, I strongly recommend the webasto or espar. The wallas heaters are toys in comparison. I have an espar and it fires everytime, sips the fuel, and cranks the heat. We "camp" in the boat sitting in the drive way all winter and it can be -20 outside and a toasty 70+ in the cabin. All this in a "cold" alloy boat.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

  11. #11

    Default spoiled one

    I just found this information on fuels. Looks like lots of great information on fuel selections. I'm also considering the espar, airtronic D4, I looked at one installed in a Glacier craft and looks like the answer for heating a boat.



    -Examining fuels: Wallas® products and correct fuel choices.
    Wallas
    ® marine products can effectively be separated into two groups –
    those that burn kerosene only and those that can burn either diesel or
    kerosene. This second group is intended to burn diesel, but kerosene will
    work also.
    1. Kerosene only: 800 Mini Cooker, 1300, 1800 and 2400 furnaces.
    2. Diesel or kerosene: 85DU, 85DP Stoves, 86D Oven, 87D Range,
    Nautic 30D and Nautic 40D Furnaces.

    Diesel Fuel
    Over the last ten years, diesel fuel in America has undergone a significant
    transformation, particularly as it impacts marine systems. In particular, the
    amount of allowable (and actual) sulfur content has dropped from 500
    ppm (parts per million) to 5 ppm on highway and 50 ppm for marine. This
    change alone has made diesel a much more attractive fuel for personal
    heating use, since sulfur has been the primary cause of objectionable
    smell from diesel.
    Wallas
    ® products will run well on either diesel #1 or #2 and on what is
    commonly called “red” diesel. Diesel has higher (138,700 BTU/US gallon)
    heat energy value than kerosene (135,000 BTU/US gallon) and costs much
    less than commercially available kerosene. While either fuel can form
    gum deposits if left sitting for months at a time time, diesel is quite stable if
    measures are taken to prevent condensation in the storage tank.
    Diesel stored in tanks can become contaminated by water (usually
    condensate). If this happens, 3% to 5% isopropyl alcohol can be added
    to the fuel, but ONLY in the case of this being fuel that will be used solely
    in the heating system.
    If your Wallas
    ® product’s diesel supply is the same as the main engine, DO
    NOT add isopropyl alcohol to the fuel. Adding alcohol to fuel eliminates
    any natural lubricity from the fuel. While fuel lubricity is not important to
    Wallas
    ® products, it is critical to diesel engine fuel injection systems.

    Kerosene
    Kerosene Used here as a generic name, is also known as K-1 or paraffin (in
    Europe). Wallas kerosene products can also burn 100% mineral spirits, or
    other products specifically made for use as a kerosene replacement in
    burner devices, including Klean-Heat. Good, clean, fresh kerosene is
    excellent fuel for Wallas
    ® products. Unfortunately, some of the properties
    of kerosene make its handling and storage very important when using it
    for heating and cooking fuel.
    From the moment kerosene is distilled, it is chemically changing, with
    paraffin precipitating out of the solution into suspension and VOCs
    (Volatile Organic Compounds) evaporating into the atmosphere. As this
    happens, the fuel becomes less and less suitable for use in forced air
    heating and cooking systems like Wallas
    ® products. The following
    conditions can accelerate the rate at which kerosene breaks down:

    -
    The presence of water (typically condensate) in the fuel

    -
    Light, particularly sunlight passing through the fuel

    -
    A large surface area (fuel air boundary)
    Some tips on handling kerosene:

    -
    Buy small quantities from volume suppliers in opaque containers
    that are full to the cap.

    -
    Store in a cool, dry place in an opaque container, filled to the
    cap.

    -
    Replace fuel when it is 4 months old.

    -
    If fuel is in question, put a sample in a clear (glass) container.
    Allow to stand for 1 hour. Look through the fuel into a moderate
    light source (out a window, soft light, etc.) The fuel should be
    transparent, not cloudy. Paraffin fallout will look like small
    globules or clouds in the fuel. Fuel showing this characteristic is
    well past its usable state.
    Dispose of any fuel that does not look
    completely clear.

    -

  12. #12
    Member spoiled one's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. The airtronic D4 is the model I have in my GC and it works great. I have not had any issues with kerosene sitting over the winter. I do use the heater and oven on a monthly basis (the boat is much more accommodating than the couch). Good luck in you search. If you would like to check out the installs of either of mine, you are welcome to. The boat will be back in town in a few weeks.

    Pete
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

  13. #13
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    Default Fuel for your Wallas.

    First, thank you for using Wallas products and for your diligence about using the right kind of fuel. It is an important part of using the product and getting the most out of them.

    Practically speaking, there are three kinds of Wallas products in terms of fuel:

    1. Kerosene only products (these can burn 1K kerosene, Klean Heat or JP4). Wallas models 1300, 1800, 2400, 900, 800, 800/220 and 1000 are in this category.
    2. Diesel products that can burn diesel #1, diesel #2 or any of the kerosene product approved fuels noted above and can benefit from using the kerosene fuels under certain circumstances. Wallas models 95DU, 95DP (aka 125DU and 125DP) are in this category.
    3. Diesel products that can burn diesel #1, diesel #2 or any of the kerosene product approved fuels noted above. These are the more modern Wallas devices. Wallas 30D, 40D, 85DU, 85DP, 85DU/270, 85DP/270, 88D, 86D and 87D are in this category.

    IT IS CRITICAL THAT YOU KNOW WHICH OF THESE PRODUCTS YOU HAVE BEFORE YOU DETERMINE WHICH FUEL TO USE.

    From the above information, you can see that you can use 1K kerosene, Klean Heat or JP4 in any of the Wallas products. While these might seem like the best choices, these represent the most expensive, least stable fuels and they have lower heating capacity than diesel.

    The category 2. products above can benefit from running non-diesel fuels if the stove is used as a heater (lid down), with the power set to it's lowest setting for long periods. When burning diesel and running as a heater, these products should not be run below the 1/4 power setting for long periods. Otherwise, these products will run on diesel very well.

    Mineral Spirits from domestic sources are no longer recommended for use as a fuel for Wallas products. This is due to the fact that this product is most often sold as a paint thinner and suffers from being a low grade, poorly controlled and unreliable fuel source.

    Thanks again!


    Doug at Scan Marine
    Toll free: 888-606-6665

  14. #14
    Member captaindd's Avatar
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    Default Wallas Stove/Furnace

    I have both the single burner Wallas Stove with lid that operates as a heater and the Wallas furnace. The furnace works some times and is hard to start. I have replaced the heating element, along with most of the other parts to it. I would not recommend it to any one. The stove works most of the time but is not dependable. I like my 2000 watt Honda Generator and a 1500 watt electric heater better. The Honda can run all night and I plug it into my shore power rerceptical and it charges my batteries. The Honda cost $900 and the electric heater $30.

  15. #15
    Member knudsemr's Avatar
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    Default Had Problem once.

    One night I ran the heater for about 6 hours then shut it down. The next day I tried turning it on and would act like it was trying to work a few times, then sometimes the on light wouldnt even come on. I tried all the reset procedures like the manual said to no avail so I gave up. One week later I went out and tried starting it ( Thinking maybe the week without using it would fix the prob...yeh right ) anyway, it started to heat up and then smoke starten billowing out of it. It got to the point that i ripped the ice box thinking it was on fire. It was not on fire but smoke was coming backwards out of the Draft fan. This repeated itself over and over. I could get the heater to come on but as soon as i closed the lid to engage the fan smoke would start coming out like the thing was catching on fire!! Finally I disconnected all the wiring harnesses from the bottom and then re connected them. I have never had a problem since. I thought for sure I had a lemon heater and was extremely bummed... This is a brand new boat. I cant explain what the problem was other than the brains must have been scrambled on the thing. I love this heater and use diesel. sorry for the novel.

  16. #16
    Member knudsemr's Avatar
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    combustion air fan....not draft fan

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