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Thread: Ranger Top?

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    Member Kort's Avatar
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    Default Ranger Top?

    Thought I would post this over here instead of the ATV section since everyone here is so very creative. I am wanting to build a HARD top for my Polaris Ranger. I prefer not to use wood, and I don't have a welder or any other metal working equipment. I want to keep this as inexpensive as possible, but I want it to be sturdy enough to be trailered at highway speeds and be functional. Anyone have any ideas? I'm open to all suggestions for different materials and designs. Thanks for your help, Kort

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    Member TWB's Avatar
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    Aluminum would be yer best bet. I picke up a sheet for 240$, spent another 40$ to have BSI to chop and Bend it. You mah Be able to get them to sell you just what you need. I spent a year using conduit 1/2 clamps but I will be adding ubolts tomorrow and making some tabs so I can strap my tire up top.
    We do not go to the green woods and crystal waters to rough it, we go to smooth it. We get it rough enough at home; in towns and cities; in shops, offices, stores, banks anywhere that we may be placed

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    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Sheet aluminum and square aluminum tubing may your best bet. You can cut it with plywood blades and WD40, bolts and pop rivets to assemble. I would avoid screws due to vibration myself. Wood core fiberglass in another option.
    Andy
    On the web= C-lazy-F.co
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    Phoenix Arizona

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    Member TWB's Avatar
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    Kort if you want more pics or dimensions, let me know. Doesnt take much to make it stout, the front and rear bends added a lot of structural rigidity it, I sit on it and it doesn't flex.

    You gearin up to whack another moose this year?
    We do not go to the green woods and crystal waters to rough it, we go to smooth it. We get it rough enough at home; in towns and cities; in shops, offices, stores, banks anywhere that we may be placed

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    Moderator bkmail's Avatar
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    Default fiberglass

    As stated above, wood core with fiberglass sounds like your only do-it yourself method if you don't want wood and welding aluminum is not an option...
    Of course it would be easy to do and you could really customize it plus it's inexpensive.
    BK

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    Member sayak's Avatar
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    Default Why not use...

    FRP with ripped green wood for structure, and stainless screws with bezels to attach the FRP? Aluminum angle in the corners for reinforcement and a strong glue would make it durable and long lasting. I have built a boat canopy this way.

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    Member Kort's Avatar
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    Default Top

    OK I am liking the ideas, I just have some questions. Sayak, I have never heard of FRP, do you have any pics of your boat canopy? Bkmail, I'm really interested in the fiberglass idea, but have no experience with it. Do you have any suggestions as to where I can get some guidance in this area? TWB, I have seen your top and like it do you have any close up pics of it? I would like to expand on these ideas to get a better understanding. I am really interested in the fiberglass and the option to get really creative with the design. Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
    Kort

  8. #8

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    Seems like the easiest and cheapest would be 1/8" UHMW. It is very easy to cut and bend and is indestructable. Will not dent like metals or crack like fiberglass and FRP. Only downside I can think of is not many color options. Call CAC Plastics in Wasilla.

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    Member TWB's Avatar
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    Fiberglass would be a real ***** to work with, it cracks on trees. Too much work to make a top with it. I have only 1 close up here at work. With mine yes I rub trees, but I have only 1/4 overhang outside the cage because I planned on welding on sidecaps, just never needed it. I can fix mine with a mallet in a matter of seconds, no maintenance needed. Only have about 30 minutes into it's creation, it's f'n sexy lookin, fully functional, and I can put a folding chair on it and glass for moose And I can incoorporate a full windshield down the road if I wanted to. I have some scrap Alum I am going to make rear panels out of and plexiglass the center.


    I'll get you some measurements tonight. You can see where I attach it right above the light at the radius, using conduit half clamps, 1 at each corner, 1 bolt ea. Ive loosened a few, but I can reshape the clamp at any time and but it back on, takes 2 minutes. Never had an issue with trailering, doesn't even move.
    We do not go to the green woods and crystal waters to rough it, we go to smooth it. We get it rough enough at home; in towns and cities; in shops, offices, stores, banks anywhere that we may be placed

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    Moderator bkmail's Avatar
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    Default TWB's rocks

    TWB, looks like your idea is the cats meow!
    CAC plastic in Wasilla knows everything about fiberglass and they carry all that you will need if you decide to go that route.
    BK

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    Member Kort's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Diamond Plate!

    I think I'll use diamond plate. I found some online 3003 48" x 60" .125 for $185 with free shipping. That doesn't seem to bad. Anyone know if I can find it cheaper in town anywhere? TWB, with my measurements I think it should be enough, is that about what size you used? It would be real nice if I could bend it myself, to save some money. Talked with one company today in town and they want $90/hour and $480 for a full 4' x 8' sheet. Seems a little steep to me. Anyone know how to bend it at home!

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  13. #13
    Member TWB's Avatar
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    WOW... thats ALOT of $$. How thick? I spent $280 for a 4x8 of 11ga, or 1/8. and like 60$ to throw it on the brake and bent it. Ive been super busy, i'll measure tonight.

    That link to PRC is the design I based mine off of, except those bark busters hanging off the sides - yeah those wouldn't last long lol
    We do not go to the green woods and crystal waters to rough it, we go to smooth it. We get it rough enough at home; in towns and cities; in shops, offices, stores, banks anywhere that we may be placed

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